help me out fellas. Drag setup
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
help me out fellas. Drag setup
Ok guys. Ill be home from Iraq in a few months, and when i do, ill be working on seting up my car for the track. Before i left, it was a DD and i had a best of 12.74, now ive got an SS4000 im putting in and looking at H/C combos cause ill have another car for DD. So while ill keep it with full interior, and lookin pretty, i want it to be all bussiness at the track, and im willing to have a harsh street ride, to beable to go in a straight line really well. I have a Sophin adjustable panhard bar in the mail and i will be ordering some SFCs next and i know i need to get a tourqe arm, but i really just have a rough idea, and need some help, especially on the best brands cause thier are alot out thier as im sure u all know. So thanx for the guidance fellas.
#2
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
maybe some of the sponsors can help me out. I have a completely stock suspension right now and want a drag setup. as i said, this car is going from a daily driver, to a full-on hobby car too take out on weekends and really to blaze down the track, and yes, it is a convertable. i am looking for best mods and in order of importance. thanx fellas.
#4
FormerVendor
iTrader: (77)
Hello,
First let me say thanks for all your hard work over there!!
For your set-up I recommend a shorter tunnel mounted torque arm, here is one of our most popular items- www.umiperformance.com/2203
When running this torque arm on a drag car we do recommend our 3-Point SFC's. The 3-Point SFC's tie both the front and rear sub-frame together as well as tie into the center of the car. Where they tie into the center they bolt under the torque arm. This allows all the load of the torque arm to be applied into the SFC's and not the floor of the vehicle. We have these SFC's in both weld in and bolt on versions, please look at the links below.
www.umiperformance.com/2003
www.umiperformance.com/2004
Here is a picture of both items installed together-
If you have any additional questions please ask and I am glad to help.
Thank you!
Ryan
First let me say thanks for all your hard work over there!!
For your set-up I recommend a shorter tunnel mounted torque arm, here is one of our most popular items- www.umiperformance.com/2203
When running this torque arm on a drag car we do recommend our 3-Point SFC's. The 3-Point SFC's tie both the front and rear sub-frame together as well as tie into the center of the car. Where they tie into the center they bolt under the torque arm. This allows all the load of the torque arm to be applied into the SFC's and not the floor of the vehicle. We have these SFC's in both weld in and bolt on versions, please look at the links below.
www.umiperformance.com/2003
www.umiperformance.com/2004
Here is a picture of both items installed together-
If you have any additional questions please ask and I am glad to help.
Thank you!
Ryan
#5
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
ok, so im doin a panhard bar, that is already in the mail, so was that a smart move for a drag set-up? i know i need sub-frames, the ones u show dont say anything about convertable compatability. Also, what about shocks and springs? what else do i need or should i be good with the tourqe arm and sub-frames?
#7
you're headed in the right direction.
in my opinion (in order of importance)
1. Tires. Get yourself set up with a good set of drag radials. they dont have to be huge, but having good suspension wont take you too far on a street tire, especially being stalled. 400 Bucks
2. Subframe Connectors - A great mod for F-cars. Will help you launch straighter, tighten things up even on the street and help prevent those pesky "torque dimples". 200 Bucks
3. Lower Control Arms - Don't have to go crazy here, the sponsors can help you out. Some regular old tubular non adjustables should stiffen up the rear end, and help you put the power to the ground without wheel hop. 120 Bucks
4. Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - These will also help with the wheel hop, while optimizing the forces applied through the lower control arms on hard launches. 80 Bucks
4. Torque Arm - Not sure what differs between the convertible cars, but once again the sponsors can help you out there. 350 Bucks
5. Shocks - Look into some drag shocks such as Strange, AFCO, or QA1. Stock springs usually work fine for a full weight car like yours. I did just the fronts first and noticed it launched much harder (QA1's). Many options here, but most likely you'll spend around 800 Bucks
Basically for about 1800 Bucks you can have a suspension that'll take whatever you can throw at it. However, dont forget about the famed 10 bolt. If you're going to be doing heads, cam, and stall. It's day might be numbered on a sticky tire.
This is my opinion, and how I have built my car. Others opinions may differ and thats okay, i know i might not do things the most kosher way but hey, im destined to by it all eventually so what the hell
in my opinion (in order of importance)
1. Tires. Get yourself set up with a good set of drag radials. they dont have to be huge, but having good suspension wont take you too far on a street tire, especially being stalled. 400 Bucks
2. Subframe Connectors - A great mod for F-cars. Will help you launch straighter, tighten things up even on the street and help prevent those pesky "torque dimples". 200 Bucks
3. Lower Control Arms - Don't have to go crazy here, the sponsors can help you out. Some regular old tubular non adjustables should stiffen up the rear end, and help you put the power to the ground without wheel hop. 120 Bucks
4. Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - These will also help with the wheel hop, while optimizing the forces applied through the lower control arms on hard launches. 80 Bucks
4. Torque Arm - Not sure what differs between the convertible cars, but once again the sponsors can help you out there. 350 Bucks
5. Shocks - Look into some drag shocks such as Strange, AFCO, or QA1. Stock springs usually work fine for a full weight car like yours. I did just the fronts first and noticed it launched much harder (QA1's). Many options here, but most likely you'll spend around 800 Bucks
Basically for about 1800 Bucks you can have a suspension that'll take whatever you can throw at it. However, dont forget about the famed 10 bolt. If you're going to be doing heads, cam, and stall. It's day might be numbered on a sticky tire.
This is my opinion, and how I have built my car. Others opinions may differ and thats okay, i know i might not do things the most kosher way but hey, im destined to by it all eventually so what the hell
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#8
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
thnax alot matt. your input is greatly appreciated. Well the first thing on your list i already have taken care of. a set of mickey thomson ET streets, been to a few track events, but i take care of them really well, dont even drive on them too the track. Also, ws the panhard bar a wise choice?
#9
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
Hello, just to give you another option. We offer an extensive line of parts for your car that are drag race proven. We have frame connectors for your convert and several different options for your rear suspension. We have full length torque arms, moly or dom steel, xtreme torque arms that can handle a seven second car and our track pak torque arm that can handle the 9 second car. All of our parts are some of the highest quality on the market and we have the front covered as well. Our k members are 24 lbs lighter than stock and when combined with our a arms you can drop 34 lbs off of the front. They are constructed from 1 5/8" .120 and 1 1/4" .095 wall dom steel. Our a arms constructed from1.625" x1.25" dom. I will post you a link to our site. Give me a call if you have any questions, we are in the office till 6pm mon-fri est.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F4.htm
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F4.htm
Last edited by BMR Tech2; 12-09-2008 at 09:25 AM.
#10
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
well, thank you very much, i will look into your products aswell. Still my original questions remain, because i am in Iraq i wont be making any calls during regular bussiness hours. Was the adj. Panhard bar a smart move? What about a strut tower brace? I want the LCAs and LCA Rel. barackets, along with a good tourqe arm, just dont know enough about suspensions yet to choose the right one. also, i already di the hose mod to my car awhile back, was that a bad idea now that my goals have become more serious? Also, would lowering the car be to much of a negative effect and more trouble than its worth? thanx fellas
#11
Launching!
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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the panhard bar was a good move, you will be able to center the rear which could become a need more than a want if you decide to go 315s like I did, there are lots of companies that make good setups, bmr, umi, wolfe, spohn. I personally went with bmr rodded end panhard, bmr race only lcas and relocation brackets, bmr extreme duty torque arm, bmr boxed subframes, bilstien shocks were there stock, and I got some eibach rear drag springs, and I have 325/45/17 m&h tires.
#12
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
i lile the looks of the UMI SFCs and tourque arm and how it all ties in, i just dont know if it will all work on a vert. Also, i already ordered the spohn panhard bar, cause i would someday eventually like too get some Z06 wheels in the back that are about an inch wider than the 9.5s that are back thier now and maybe throw on some 295-315s