98 Camaro Z28 Price???
10-09-2008, 06:37 PM
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98 Camaro Z28 Price??? This is not an ad... yet. Unless I get an offer I can't refuse all I'm doing is thinking about selling the old girl and seeing what ya'all think she's worth.
98 Camaro Z28 NBM. Pretty much the only appearance mod done is the clear turn signals in the front. Stock rims, new tires, has a couple dings and scratches from the parking lot
and a dent in the rocker panel on the driver's side from the jack collapsing 
Everything works great, cruise, a/c, heater, hatch release, etc. The interior is in good shape, front seats (mostly the driver's) show the usual signs of wear and tear. Carpet is cleaner then most but no showroom carpet, still have the factory T-Top shades and floor mats (that I have stowed away to keep from dirt). factory radio system with an amp and 10" JL sub in the stealth box that fits in the quarter panel on the driver's side. The console is a bit cut up for switches installed but I have a spare uncut mint console for the buyer to reroute the switches to wherever and have a clean console. The car has about 85,000mi on it but the motor is just broken in with 500mi on it. Here's the drivetrain specs
New style LS6 block, truck crank 3.622 stroke, K1 rods, Mahle forged pistons 3.905 bore, all ARP studs/rodbolts/hardware built by weber racing. and F14 camshaft
MLS Head gaskets, Dart Pro 1 205cc heads 62cc chambers, with ARP head studs. Harland sharp roller stud mounted rockers, chromoly pushrods. Fast 78mm intake manifold, ported and polished TB, MTI Carbon Lid and K+N Filter.
Delphi 36# injectors @43.5psi (more around 43# on the LS1@58psi). stock fuel rail, stock coils, Taylor wires, NGK55 plugs. Stock accessory drive.
ARP header stud kit, AR Long tube headers 1-7/8" with air/EGR, AR's OR-Y pipe, Corsa cat-back with the Premium tips (very rare tips!). Car was an automatic but I swapped in a T-56 a few years back. I've never had a problem with the transmission except it will not downshift straight from 6th to 5th. It's never been to the track since I've had the manual installed. When I put in the new motor I also installed a new slave cylinder, new pilot bushing, LS2 flywheel, LS7 clutch assy. factory aluminum driveshaft, factory 10bolt rear with fresh bearings installed and 2.23 gears. Also have a B&M roll solenoid installed, manual fan switch, Walbro 255lph fuel pump.
I've just recently started having problems with the fuel gauge fluctuating. And the car runs very strong but is still running rich. I have HPTuners that I may as well include with the car. But it needs a good dyno tune to run like she should. Especially now that it's been broken in. she drives like a dream especially with that LS7 clutch, but has the usual surging while cruising around 30mph or below. A good tune should take care of this.
So I believe I've hit almost everything, There's minor things I've put into it like the Pro 5.0 shifter, lou's short stick, custom shift ****, new o2 sensors, few other things here and there. So what do ya'all think? I can only guess the horsepower but my conservative guess would be about 450 at the rear wheels.
98 Camaro Z28 NBM. Pretty much the only appearance mod done is the clear turn signals in the front. Stock rims, new tires, has a couple dings and scratches from the parking lot
and a dent in the rocker panel on the driver's side from the jack collapsing Everything works great, cruise, a/c, heater, hatch release, etc. The interior is in good shape, front seats (mostly the driver's) show the usual signs of wear and tear. Carpet is cleaner then most but no showroom carpet, still have the factory T-Top shades and floor mats (that I have stowed away to keep from dirt). factory radio system with an amp and 10" JL sub in the stealth box that fits in the quarter panel on the driver's side. The console is a bit cut up for switches installed but I have a spare uncut mint console for the buyer to reroute the switches to wherever and have a clean console. The car has about 85,000mi on it but the motor is just broken in with 500mi on it. Here's the drivetrain specsNew style LS6 block, truck crank 3.622 stroke, K1 rods, Mahle forged pistons 3.905 bore, all ARP studs/rodbolts/hardware built by weber racing. and F14 camshaft
MLS Head gaskets, Dart Pro 1 205cc heads 62cc chambers, with ARP head studs. Harland sharp roller stud mounted rockers, chromoly pushrods. Fast 78mm intake manifold, ported and polished TB, MTI Carbon Lid and K+N Filter.
Delphi 36# injectors @43.5psi (more around 43# on the LS1@58psi). stock fuel rail, stock coils, Taylor wires, NGK55 plugs. Stock accessory drive.
ARP header stud kit, AR Long tube headers 1-7/8" with air/EGR, AR's OR-Y pipe, Corsa cat-back with the Premium tips (very rare tips!). Car was an automatic but I swapped in a T-56 a few years back. I've never had a problem with the transmission except it will not downshift straight from 6th to 5th. It's never been to the track since I've had the manual installed. When I put in the new motor I also installed a new slave cylinder, new pilot bushing, LS2 flywheel, LS7 clutch assy. factory aluminum driveshaft, factory 10bolt rear with fresh bearings installed and 2.23 gears. Also have a B&M roll solenoid installed, manual fan switch, Walbro 255lph fuel pump.
I've just recently started having problems with the fuel gauge fluctuating. And the car runs very strong but is still running rich. I have HPTuners that I may as well include with the car. But it needs a good dyno tune to run like she should. Especially now that it's been broken in. she drives like a dream especially with that LS7 clutch, but has the usual surging while cruising around 30mph or below. A good tune should take care of this.
So I believe I've hit almost everything, There's minor things I've put into it like the Pro 5.0 shifter, lou's short stick, custom shift ****, new o2 sensors, few other things here and there. So what do ya'all think? I can only guess the horsepower but my conservative guess would be about 450 at the rear wheels.
