Weezzer

For good or ill – here we go.
I got QTP LT’s (2002 with air). I got ready to put them in, placed them on the garage floor with a drop cord light behind them. Looking at them I saw something funny.
Turns out one-half of a primary tube is not tig welded around the female merge collector on each header. I shined a flashlight up into the merge collector on each header and there is an approx. gap of .025” on one header/primary tube joint and approx. 0.030” on the other-opposite side header/primary tube joint. You have to look down thru the center of the welds to see this, where the 4-tube junction is. I took detailed pictures and sent them to QTP. The response I got was that they always leave one tube un-welded. And that most collectors are slip-on and the lack of weld was of no concern. I was told the tube would expand and seal/close off when it got hot and it wouldn’t then leak.

I don’t know if the person that emailed me was misinformed or if he really thought I would believe his story.

If the primary tube was the only part of the header assembly that got hot, then the primary tube may just grow enough to partially seal off the gap. But since both the male primary and the female merge collector will be reaching the same temperature, then they will expand at the same rate. It won’t seal off unless some carbon crap from the exhaust fills the gaps. Those of you that haven’t mounted your headers may want to look thru there closely and see if you have the same gap scenario.
I’m going to install mine in a few days and see what happens, though I feel I’d surely like to try and get this gap welded up prior to installation. I had a friend tell me not to weld it up cause it may cancel the warranty. After all I’ve been thru I told him there didn’t seem to be any warranty because nothing ever seems to be wrong with these headers. I pray they fit well as I won’t be a happy camper if they don’t.

I dunno. I guess decide for your selves…

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

That's messed up. I'd send it back and demand another. I wouldn't want to go thru the hassle of installing/removing em and then sending em back. Hell once you install it, find out it leaks, they'll prolly tell you you cant return it cause you already installed it.

EvilBLK02TA

iTrader: (28)

yeah that sucks, i plan on getting some soon, hope i wont have that issue also but im glad you pointed it out. Thanks but at the same time, sorry about your luck!

Weezzer

They told me every header they make is like this, and there is no defect AFA they are concerned.
I already know its going to leak before I install it, like I said there is almost 1/32" gap between those two primaries. Its no sense sending it back as they told me its supposed to be that way, with that explanation they aren't going to do anything. I'm out of luck on this one, at least…as it appears...The passenger’s side can be tig welded easily because of how the tubes are bent in relationship to the collector. The driver’s side will be much harder to access as the bends are much further out.

I’m going to try it as is and see how well they work……..

NSTY WS6

iTrader: (5)

Is this bead you are looking at on the outside? If so, look inside the collector, they are possibly welded from the inside, which would result in a full seal. But if you can see the gap and no bead from both inside and out. I would take it and have it fixed. Your not going to be a happy camper when you hear the leak. Plus, giving yourself more work. If they do have a warranty, not like you really need one with "quality" stainless headers. Not much can go wrong...

Weezzer

As I said before, I can see daylight thru both of them.

Weezzer

If as QTP told me, that one primary tube isn't welded all the way around on all the headers they produce - then I'll more than likely still have the same problem even after they were exchanged. If the OD of the female portion was sweged slightly smaller such that it was a closer tolerance fit, then I would never have noticed it. When you can see light thru it - it gets your attention.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I never looked that closely at my QTP Vette headers before I installed them, but before I bought them Barry told me they weld them like this and warned me it might make a little noise for a minute or two until they heat up. So assuming I have the same thing on my headers, I have not had any problems with them at all and frankly haven't noticed any noise during a cold start either.

Weezzer

I puchased QTP headers in mid April of this year, I received them at the end of July of 06. I immediately noticed the driver’s side header had two big dings in the HVMC and it was severely out of round and the driver’s side was also not milled all the way across on the head/header interface. At that time I sent pictures to QTP and was informed, “everything appears as it should be-nothing is wrong”. Ok, I accepted that. I was able to reshape the HVMC somewhat round and I took a large honing stone and spent several hours honing it flat. After that I found that the air fitting (headers are for a 2002 T/A with air) wasn’t drilled thru the primary on the driver’s side. I took care of that also.

Now I’ve discovered that of the 4 primary tubes going into the HVMC, only 3.5 of the tubes are welded all the way around. I have approx. a 0.020” to 0.025” gap around the one passenger’s side primary tube that wasn’t welded. You can see light thru it with a flashlight. I was able to stick a 0.010” flat feeler gauge into the crescent moon shaped gap tonight. The driver’s side looks to be about a 0.020” gap; also you can see the light thru it too. I contacted QTP by email with pictures and was told “all the headers are welded that way, there isn’t a problem with them-when they get hot the tube will seal”.
That may be correct if it’s a very close fit and not a large gap, but since they are made of the same material they will expand at the same basic rate and these two large gaps are not going to seal.

I just want them fixed, I paid $799 for them and I’m tired of having to take up the slack for their lack of quality.

There are a couple of threads about this listed below, one of my options is to take them and try to have them welded. It’s a long shot as it will be very difficult to access the center of where the 4 tubes merge, as that’s where the gap is located.

I’m posting this here, as this is the first time I’ve ever had any kind of problem like this with any LS1Tech sponsor.

I just want a modicum of satisfaction with my QTP purchase.

Info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-sponsor-feedback/615095-qtp-problem-sponsor-offered-resolve.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612932

Quick Time

iTrader: (1)

All headers are welded like that as we already informed you about. It is impossible to weld all 4 tubes inside. It is also not an issue and we told you any gap will will seal when the tubes get hot. Just like slip fit collectors.

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

Well, I send this guys an email concerning my headers, I got a set from their bad batch, which I purchased in March of this year. I tell them my story about how the headers were crappy and I get an email this morning saying that they cant do anything because my headers were purchased 10 months ago. Its been actually 8 in the first place and they sold a batch of bad headers and I believe they should help me out with something.

Minus point for QTP

MODERATOR INSERT:
Spoke with QTP today about this issue. There were never a "bad batch" set of headers sent out not including the timeline of even 8 months out.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Keep bitching at them, whats wrong with the headers?

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

Passenger side header its freakin resting on the K member whihc causes BIG shakes at stop lights or whenever my car is stoped. It feels like I have a freakin 427 with a huge cam in it. The Driver side header is rubbing on my steering shaft and its making my steering wheel feel like I have no powersteering.

I already grinded the K member enough and it doesnt clear. Its obiously that the headers are badly made.

Weezzer

The gap is not going to seal when it is that large, it is not going to seal up a gap that is almost 1/32".
If the female portion hadn't been sweged out so far and was a closer fit, then your argument would hold water. Its supposed to be a "slip fit" which is just a few thousands of an inch for clearance, not a sloppy fall-in loose as a goose fit.

GEARHED

iTrader: (5)

What it is "supposed to do" vs "what it is doing" is now left to email and phone calls - again.

There are inconsistencies in how big the gap is, if any modification took place from the time of order to time received, if you have had a qualified shop look to see if there is an issue.

That would be the best way to resolve this issue and....
DO NOT SPAM OTHER SECTIONS WITH THIS ISSUE.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

There's a difference between a slip fit and a GAP.

GEARHED

iTrader: (5)

- Be accurate and list all pertinent facts, everything that may have to do with the situation. Do not exaggerate, and do not omit information which may sway a situation - regardless of how it looks on you. Otherwise, folks will get upset about what they may perceive to be lying, when they are being accused of something.

- Be constructive and willing to work with folks. Closing your mind off to any possible solutions will not make it easy. Folks need to be somewhat understanding.

- Exhaust ALL POSSIBLE OPTIONS before posting in here. Try email, try PMs, try phone calls if you have their number. That way you will at least be able to say you tried everything you could before posting.


- For situations involving sponsors, CALL THEM FIRST. If you come on here posting about a sponsor issue and you haven't called, your thread MAY BE LOCKED UNTIL YOU DO. There is only so much that can be accomplished via emails or PMs; sometimes it just requires a phone call.

NBM2001z28

iTrader: (43)

Honestly, it sounds like your cars been in an accident before. I believe you're the first ever to have the passenger side not fit by the k-member. I dont know of anyone else that has ever had that problem...

GEARHED

iTrader: (5)

Motor mounts????
Wrong ones can make the car feel like its shakin', not stirred.