Stupid Question on a Catless DP
06-01-2009, 04:31 PM
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Stupid Question on a Catless DP Alright I ordered my catless DP from Wbodystore since Hogan no longer *advertises* catless pipes on his site and shipping to a heavy smog state like CA would be a headache for them.
So it came in the mail today, and it has no bung for the 02 sensor like the stock one does? Is that the rear 02 that doesnt matter or do I need to someone to cut and weld a bung in there? Can I just disconnect the rear 02? Can I tune it out with the diablosport?
So it came in the mail today, and it has no bung for the 02 sensor like the stock one does? Is that the rear 02 that doesnt matter or do I need to someone to cut and weld a bung in there? Can I just disconnect the rear 02? Can I tune it out with the diablosport?
06-01-2009, 04:34 PM
#2
They make o2 sensors bungs you just weld in. To keep thing happy u need both working. Front was is a referance to the rear 02 sensor and shows the computer how well that cat is working. . A before and after snap shot of sensor data.
06-02-2009, 10:19 AM
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I drove around with a bad rear o2 sensor for a long while...so driving with one tucked away should be fine. It didn't hurt my mileage too much, but who'd notice at 11mpg anyway 
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06-02-2009, 04:51 PM
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With a catless down pipe you will have to get the codes tuned out anyway. Make sure all codes are tuned out, not just cat. conv. efficiency, but also circuitry and heating codes and the like. So if your getting all the codes turned off, then just unplug the sensor from the sensor wiring harness.
06-02-2009, 06:19 PM
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Well...I have a HOGAN DP7S from HOGAN with a RPipe....I let my Factory O2 sensor stay exposed to air and tucked up on the lil notch on the frame...you will see it for sure, its right next to the rear flange of any piping, right near the rubber hook loops....it is the opening the wire and sensor is ran out of...just make sure to tuck it in to where there is no contact with the wire and/or with the frame....IT DOES GET HOT...as you read...and MAKE SURE IT FACES OUT AWAY TOWARD THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE....let it show over the edge of the opening a lil..kind of poke over...NOT HANG!!!
And a quick tip!!: You will see how the cord of the sensor will snake a lil...cause you can pull that sensor out a good ways before you loose slack.....so when you put it in the notch, nestle it with the wire...snake it in to where you have wire on each side of the sensor AWAY FROM THE HEATED BUNG END!!! and seat the sensor between the snake....this will save your from a pretty nasty rattle that developes and sounds like the exhaust is going to fall off!!! LOL...and do be careful not to forget THEY GET HOT...I had a brain fart and tried to move it while the sensor was coming down from operating temp......that bitch is very hot...lol
It will not do harm in short term exporsure to air...like now more that 30 min ....O2 is the calibiration gas the sensor takes to caliberate, so a lil is okay..I did run around with my CHECK light on for the longest before I could get to my tunner to disengage it, but it still works..but take care of it with several methods listed above.......the only thing that is known to harm these sensors is extreme exhuast heat and the sensor staying on and heating without exhaust gas passing over it....
RECOMENDATION: Get you a wide band controller and a gauge to devote to your system with the upgrades in place of the rear....and TUNE THE REAR OUT....
as im not sure, but there are some delete diods etc and other options as we all know...
And a quick tip!!: You will see how the cord of the sensor will snake a lil...cause you can pull that sensor out a good ways before you loose slack.....so when you put it in the notch, nestle it with the wire...snake it in to where you have wire on each side of the sensor AWAY FROM THE HEATED BUNG END!!! and seat the sensor between the snake....this will save your from a pretty nasty rattle that developes and sounds like the exhaust is going to fall off!!! LOL...and do be careful not to forget THEY GET HOT...I had a brain fart and tried to move it while the sensor was coming down from operating temp......that bitch is very hot...lol
It will not do harm in short term exporsure to air...like now more that 30 min ....O2 is the calibiration gas the sensor takes to caliberate, so a lil is okay..I did run around with my CHECK light on for the longest before I could get to my tunner to disengage it, but it still works..but take care of it with several methods listed above.......the only thing that is known to harm these sensors is extreme exhuast heat and the sensor staying on and heating without exhaust gas passing over it....
RECOMENDATION: Get you a wide band controller and a gauge to devote to your system with the upgrades in place of the rear....and TUNE THE REAR OUT....
as im not sure, but there are some delete diods etc and other options as we all know...
06-02-2009, 06:29 PM
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further....if you get a Wideband controller....have the bung on the bend of the downpipe BEFORE THE CAT or RACE PIPE IF YOU MINUS THAT...its recomended that you place it in a 10 or 2 position, as condinsation can build up from exhaust temps mixed with other weather related elements.....
Lil problem you will run into, due to the positioning of the downpipe near the lower chasis engine wall...you might or probably will only to be able to get a bung/sensor in a 3 o'clock postition....but its very, very close; depending on how aggressive your downpipe bend is and its diameter...
Just some pass down...
Lil problem you will run into, due to the positioning of the downpipe near the lower chasis engine wall...you might or probably will only to be able to get a bung/sensor in a 3 o'clock postition....but its very, very close; depending on how aggressive your downpipe bend is and its diameter...
Just some pass down...
06-03-2009, 01:23 AM
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Well...I have a HOGAN DP7S from HOGAN with a RPipe....I let my Factory O2 sensor stay exposed to air and tucked up on the lil notch on the frame...you will see it for sure, its right next to the rear flange of any piping, right near the rubber hook loops....it is the opening the wire and sensor is ran out of...just make sure to tuck it in to where there is no contact with the wire and/or with the frame....IT DOES GET HOT...as you read...and MAKE SURE IT FACES OUT AWAY TOWARD THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE....let it show over the edge of the opening a lil..kind of poke over...NOT HANG!!!
And a quick tip!!: You will see how the cord of the sensor will snake a lil...cause you can pull that sensor out a good ways before you loose slack.....so when you put it in the notch, nestle it with the wire...snake it in to where you have wire on each side of the sensor AWAY FROM THE HEATED BUNG END!!! and seat the sensor between the snake....this will save your from a pretty nasty rattle that developes and sounds like the exhaust is going to fall off!!! LOL...and do be careful not to forget THEY GET HOT...I had a brain fart and tried to move it while the sensor was coming down from operating temp......that bitch is very hot...lol
It will not do harm in short term exporsure to air...like now more that 30 min ....O2 is the calibiration gas the sensor takes to caliberate, so a lil is okay..I did run around with my CHECK light on for the longest before I could get to my tunner to disengage it, but it still works..but take care of it with several methods listed above.......the only thing that is known to harm these sensors is extreme exhuast heat and the sensor staying on and heating without exhaust gas passing over it....
RECOMENDATION: Get you a wide band controller and a gauge to devote to your system with the upgrades in place of the rear....and TUNE THE REAR OUT....
as im not sure, but there are some delete diods etc and other options as we all know...
And a quick tip!!: You will see how the cord of the sensor will snake a lil...cause you can pull that sensor out a good ways before you loose slack.....so when you put it in the notch, nestle it with the wire...snake it in to where you have wire on each side of the sensor AWAY FROM THE HEATED BUNG END!!! and seat the sensor between the snake....this will save your from a pretty nasty rattle that developes and sounds like the exhaust is going to fall off!!! LOL...and do be careful not to forget THEY GET HOT...I had a brain fart and tried to move it while the sensor was coming down from operating temp......that bitch is very hot...lol
It will not do harm in short term exporsure to air...like now more that 30 min ....O2 is the calibiration gas the sensor takes to caliberate, so a lil is okay..I did run around with my CHECK light on for the longest before I could get to my tunner to disengage it, but it still works..but take care of it with several methods listed above.......the only thing that is known to harm these sensors is extreme exhuast heat and the sensor staying on and heating without exhaust gas passing over it....
RECOMENDATION: Get you a wide band controller and a gauge to devote to your system with the upgrades in place of the rear....and TUNE THE REAR OUT....
as im not sure, but there are some delete diods etc and other options as we all know...
further....if you get a Wideband controller....have the bung on the bend of the downpipe BEFORE THE CAT or RACE PIPE IF YOU MINUS THAT...its recomended that you place it in a 10 or 2 position, as condinsation can build up from exhaust temps mixed with other weather related elements.....
Lil problem you will run into, due to the positioning of the downpipe near the lower chasis engine wall...you might or probably will only to be able to get a bung/sensor in a 3 o'clock postition....but its very, very close; depending on how aggressive your downpipe bend is and its diameter...
Just some pass down...
Lil problem you will run into, due to the positioning of the downpipe near the lower chasis engine wall...you might or probably will only to be able to get a bung/sensor in a 3 o'clock postition....but its very, very close; depending on how aggressive your downpipe bend is and its diameter...
Just some pass down...
So I welded up a standard bung in close the stock location but clocked it a little bit. Now I can plug it in. I'll just need Lew to write me a code delete.
06-03-2009, 02:24 PM
#15
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yup yup... 
I need a copy of the current diablo tune that is installed in your car...
here's how to do it:
http://diablosport.com/index.php?nam...ewtopic&t=6547
I need a copy of the current diablo tune that is installed in your car...
here's how to do it:
http://diablosport.com/index.php?nam...ewtopic&t=6547
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06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
