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Old 03-01-2011, 09:13 PM   #1
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Default LS1/LS6 intake swap Sticky!!!

First things first...
There has been a lot of questions about what intake manifold to use.. LS1 or LS6. F.A.S.T will not work due to the rear bulge. Sorry....

Here is a test performed by TPiS. READ AND DECIDE FOR YOURSELF! http://www.tpis.com/pages/2_17_06

LS1 intake vs. LS6 intake flow numbers.
.........................................200"..300 "..350"..400"..450"..500"..550"..600"

Stock LS6 head, LS1 intake....156...199...212...224...232...238...243. ..247
Stock LS6 head, LS6 intake....154...204...220...235...247...257...263. ..265

Stock cam with 1.8 rockers will provid about .510" non DOD and .520" DOD lobes lift. Valves will only reach peak lift numbers/flow once; and .050" lift twice. This is why the LS1 intake works after getting it's *** kicked above .450"

This is how I did my intake swap and the parts I used.
I will add links for the parts later

LS1/LS6 intake
LS6 injectors
1/4 NPT to 3/8" hose fitting
1/4 NPT to 1/2" hose fitting
1 31/32" freeze plug
EV1-EV6 injector adapters
EGR plug (LS1 intake only)
LS1/LS6 fuel rail (non-returnless rail)
Intake gaskets, TB gasket
TB adapter
3M yellow weather stripping adhessive

You can get fittings here http://www.fastfittings.com/product/32006
Injector adapters http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/1765
Map extension harness http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/784

Start off by cleaning the intake with Gunk and hot water.

Remove the factory PCV fitting from the intake. You will need to gain as much opsu clearance as possible.
I used a dremel cutoff wheel. When the PCV nipple is ground down flush, plug the hole with some epoxy PUTTY.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Next remove the rear vacuum fitting.
Click the image to open in full size.

Take a hacksaw, and saw the fitting off. Pry the rest of the fitting out with a flat blade screwdriver.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is what you'll end up with.
Click the image to open in full size.

Next, plug the hole with a 1 31/32" freeze plug using 3M weatherstripping adhessive or epoxy. Then drill a 7/16" hole in the lower corner and mount the MAP sensor with a small screw. I used adhessive to seal the screw too.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Very tight fit!
Click the image to open in full size.

If using a LS1 intake and it has EGR you'll need to plug the EGR hole
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

The plug pictured up above is found on E bay. You can also use Dorman 555-025 freeze plug for the EGR hole.

Now it is time to move onto the Vacuum fitting, and mod it for our power brake hose.

Drill the factory fitting out. Work your way up to a 7/16 drill bit.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Next tap the hole with a 1/4-18 pipe tap
Click the image to open in full size.

And install a 1/4 thread 1/2 hose fitting using 3M adhesive as sealer. This will allow the factocy brake hose to remain in the stock location. No clamps required.
Click the image to open in full size.

Move onto the bottom of the intake. The lower ribing will needs to be removed if using the DOD tray.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is what the bottom of the intake should look like after sanding or light grinding. Some intakes have curved bottoms and some are flat. Some DOD valley covers are thicker then others too! Remove a little at a time.
Click the image to open in full size.

Brians TB adapter for use with headers
Click the image to open in full size.

Drill and tap the star area with 7/16 drill, and tap with a 1/4-18 pipe tap and install a 1/4 pipe to 3/8 hose fitting for the dirty air PCV. The hose will go from fitting to the rear valve cover. Install with 3M adhessive.
Click the image to open in full size.

I used LS6 injectors with LS6 fuel rail
Click the image to open in full size.

Which required pigtail adapters EV1 to EV6. This allows us to use our stock harness. I have also include a pic of the MAP extension harness.
Click the image to open in full size.

You can also use one piece adapters.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now... In order to use the LS6 injectors/rail, you will need to remove your alt, and the alt bracket. The rear hump on the bracket has to be cut flush. It's pretty easy to figure out. Just use a vise and a hacksaw.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is a picture of the moddified bracket.
Click the image to open in full size.

Tons of clearance now!
Click the image to open in full size.

Everything assembled. MAKE SURE YOU BLOW THE INTAKE OUT WITH AIR TO REMOVE DEBRIS FROM DRILLING AND TAPING BEFORE INSTALL!!
Click the image to open in full size.

Now it is time to move onto the DOD tray.
IF USING DOD LIFTERS, THEN YOU MUST USE THE DOD TRAY, even if the DOD is tuned out.

The OPSU will not clear the intake, so the OPSU port needs to be cut down to the DOD oil feed, and rewelded at an angle. 30* seems to work pretty good. Have a fab shop do the moddification. Try to retain the DOD filter if you can. If not, then be prepared for a clogged solenoid, or collapsed lifter if you decided to keep the DOD functional.
Click the image to open in full size.

The DOD connector needs to be trimed down too, so pull the DOD connector out of the tray.
Click the image to open in full size.

Next split into two
Click the image to open in full size.

Trim the connector down as far as you can go. Then solder and heat shrink everything back together
Click the image to open in full size.

IF YOU DO NOT PLAN ON USING DOD, THEN YOU CAN JUST PULL THE CONNECTOR FROM THE TRAY, AND WELD THE HOLE UP. JB WELD WILL WORK TOO! However.. The DOD Solenoids must remain intact. So bolt them back onto the tray after welding the OPSU at an angle

Tray isready to go. DOD still functionial!
Click the image to open in full size.

Intake manifold bolts Guide

Install and ensure that all 10 intake manifold bolts are hand threaded as far as they'll go, tighten them down with a wrench and then torque in the order shown in the picture on the left. You need to torque these down in a 2-pass fashion..the first pass, tighten to 44 INCH-lbs, then, on the 2nd pass torque them to 89 INCH-lbs. Again, note those specs are in INCH lbs. If you don't have an inch pounds torque wrench, just tigthen the bolts hand tight...its only about 7 ftlbs of torque on that final pass and the intake seals with rubber gaskets so its doesn't need much pressure at all to seal.
Click the image to open in full size.

Intake installed pic
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

New fuel line location. Bendings and twisting is not required.
Click the image to open in full size.

OPSU pic
Click the image to open in full size.

Vacuum hose routing
Click the image to open in full size.

Why the LS6 injectors and rail?
Well, for one... they are a bolt on item, and for two.. the LS6 injectors are pretty close to the LS4 injectors. LS6 are rated at 28.8lb and the LS4 injectors are a tad over 28lb. (58psi)

I'd rather cut up my alt bracket then the intake.

The engine will fire right up with the LS6 stuff, and will drive just fine till tuning. YOU WILL NEED TUNING.

SEE PAGE 4 FOR MORE PICS AND DETAILS!

Last edited by DavidGXP; 09-14-2012 at 07:36 PM.. Reason: Added flow numbers
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:21 PM   #2
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Very nice. How long did this thread take?!
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:29 PM   #3
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Best write up EVER!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:29 PM   #4
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Thank you!

A side note: Some pictures are rather small. Can you do something about that?
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenTexSS View Post
Very nice. How long did this thread take?!
Four empty bottles of beer.

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Originally Posted by GXP25 View Post
Thank you!

A side note: Some pictures are rather small. Can you do something about that?
Nothing I can do sorry. Some are my pics and some are from other members.
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:38 PM   #6
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Mad props to TiredGXP, Sittingmongoose, and nmp0098.
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:50 PM   #7
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Lol David, some of those pictures are ridiculous; I can fit them on one line.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Maybe you can track the owners down?
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:38 PM   #8
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Lol David, some of those pictures are ridiculous; I can fit them on one line.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Maybe you can track the owners down?
But you get the concept right?

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by DavidGXP; 08-22-2011 at 05:57 PM..
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:09 AM   #9
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Good job bringing the relevant parts of several threads together.

Hey 'Bama, sticky this.

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Old 03-02-2011, 07:37 AM   #10
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agreed. awesome job. great write up. easy to follow.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:57 AM   #11
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looks good. man i have a spare LS1 intake in my garage right now too. hmmm
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:03 AM   #12
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Quote:
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But you get the concept right?
The first picture, not really. I have no real idea where it's at. Rear? Then you want me to mount the MAP sensor? Meh, I'm not going guess on something that requires me to make permanent modifications when a larger image would make it all that much clearer.

As for the second picture, yes, I know where that's at. And that's only because I have an LS1 intake manifold sitting in the garage.

Finally, the third picture, yes. It's underneath the intake manifold.

But based on your "concept" train of thought, why not have all of the pictures in this thread tiny?
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:18 AM   #13
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Great writeup! I'm more at ease on doing this now.
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:31 AM   #14
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Wait are you guys KEEPING the LS4 Throttle body?
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:49 AM   #15
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Nice work. I have some alternatives to throw out there.

1) You don't have to grind the bottom of the manifold if you use the newer VLOM. I wouldn't grind it smooth regardless; I'd take off as little material as possible.

2) I'm not convinced that taking that much material from the alternator bracket is wise. It's actualy a 2-2.5 HP generator (no OEM has used what is technically an alternator for years) that wants to torque out of alignment when heavily loaded. There are other fuel rail options, too. The LS3, L76, LS7, L99, etc. all have injectors of the same physical size as ours, and the mounting tabs on the fuel rail could be modified for the LS6 intake fairly easily.

I want to make it clear that flow rate is only half of the story when it comes to injectors. It only describes an injector that is 100% on. Make sure that you have access to tuning software that can change injector Offset vs. MAP vs. Volts and the Short Pulse Adder, which are used to compensate for the injector opening and closing. You can somewhat compensate for them by using fictitious MAF and VE data, but you will never get consistent fueling doing that, especially during transients.


Finally, in my opinion most people should just spring for the LS6 intake. If you already in for $500+, why not spend the extra $250 for more torque everywhere (albeit not much at lower and middle RPMs) and more RPM potential if you do decide to cam the engine? Guys have spent more for less horsepower (see all of the K&N kits people buy, and the headers give you less HP/$ than springing for the LS6 would). The gap only grows the with additional mods.
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:56 AM   #16
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Haha, I thought you were using a condom wrapper as a reference.

OP By-DavidGXP
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Finally, in my opinion most people should just spring for the LS6 intake. If you already in for $500+, why not spend the extra $250 for more torque everywhere (albeit not much at lower and middle RPMs) and more RPM potential if you do decide to cam the engine? Guys have spent more for less horsepower (see all of the K&N kits people buy, and the headers give you less HP/$ than springing for the LS6 would). The gap only grows the with additional mods.
I agree, STOCK LS1's w/ LS6 intake make roughly 10-15hp over the LS1 intake.........that's why they cost more. The gains would be very similar on an LS4.
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I'm not convinced that taking that much material from the alternator bracket is wise. It's actualy a 2-2.5 HP generator (no OEM has used what is technically an alternator for years) that wants to torque out of alignment when heavily loaded.
I was afraid to remove material thinking that the bracket might fail.
This has not been the case. I have had this bracket on for about almost a yr now. About 12k miles to be exact. When I swapped intakes last yr I installed the bracket. In fact.... the stock bracket is cast iron and weighs about 13lbs. With grinding and drilling small holes into it, I have got it down to 8lbs.
Again, not a single problem..

Quote:
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There are other fuel rail options, too. The LS3, L76, LS7, L99, etc. all have injectors of the same physical size as ours, and the mounting tabs on the fuel rail could be modified for the LS6 intake fairly easily.
LS1/LS6 returnless rails are bolt on.. no modifications required with EV6 injectors. With the shorter EV1 injectors (LS4) then yes.. fuel rail mods are required. I was just going the easy route.
Quote:
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I want to make it clear that flow rate is only half of the story when it comes to injectors. It only describes an injector that is 100% on. Make sure that you have access to tuning software that can change injector Offset vs. MAP vs. Volts and the Short Pulse Adder, which are used to compensate for the injector opening and closing. You can somewhat compensate for them by using fictitious MAF and VE data, but you will never get consistent fueling doing that, especially during transients..
100% correct. Tuning will be required. I was running very rich. I am using the Diablo sport Predator and had to make a few minor adjustments. Not perfect yet but.. I'd say very close. Even if one was to adapt the stock injectors, they would need to retune.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nmp0098 View Post
Finally, in my opinion most people should just spring for the LS6 intake. If you already in for $500+, why not spend the extra $250 for more torque everywhere (albeit not much at lower and middle RPMs) and more RPM potential if you do decide to cam the engine? Guys have spent more for less horsepower (see all of the K&N kits people buy, and the headers give you less HP/$ than springing for the LS6 would). The gap only grows the with additional mods.
I have a ported LS6 comming in on Saturday (ported is probably a waste of $$) for my up comming cam swap. It just seems fitting too me. LS6 intake with LS6 heads. I have a 2001 LS6 MAF that I wanna install too.. But after looking at the stock LS4 tb opening. ( A little over 3 1/4) I am not going to bother. LS6 DBW tb has a 75mm throttle blade with a TB opening that is about 4".

Last edited by DavidGXP; 03-02-2011 at 02:22 PM..
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:26 PM   #19
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Wait are you guys KEEPING the LS4 Throttle body?
Yes sir!
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I have a 2001 LS6 MAF that I wanna install too.. But after looking at the stock LS4 tb opening. ( A little over 3 1/4) I am not going to bother. LS6 DBW tb has a 75mm throttle blade with a TB opening that is about 4".


You will get gains by swapping to that larger maf, even with the stock TB.
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