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DOD removal what oil pump

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Old 03-12-2013, 03:44 AM
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Default DOD removal what oil pump

Hi all I've picked up a oil pump from a LSA engine to replace the pump on my ls4 due to removing the DOD. I've done this because people have said the pump will starve the bottom end without the dod system. But now I've read a few more Internet pages and peoe are using ls4 pumps on non dod engines, have I made a wrong move.
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:03 AM
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You know back in the LSA days they said if you are modding to put a high volume pump in or else.
So today you have an engine that comes from the factory with a high volume pump and they are telling you to go to a standard pump.
Then the pans had a 5 quart sump
Now we have a 6 quart sump
They did not have an upper end pressure relief valve
We have a 65psi separate pressure relief valve which dumps directly into the sump
They did not have all the windage trays
We have special windage trays
We have superior drain back built in due to the DOD/AFM design
Old 03-12-2013, 08:21 AM
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So do you think ill be fine leaving the standard ls4 pump on
Old 03-12-2013, 11:29 AM
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I left my DoD cam and DoD pump in place when I deleted the rest of my DoD system. I now have a new engine because of it. If I were you I would get rid of the pump and put on this:

http://store.katechengines.com/mobil...l-pump-p5.aspx
Old 03-12-2013, 11:57 AM
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I used the LS4 pump without any problems. It flows 30% more oil then the std volume oil pumps.LS1,LS2,LS6, etc..

When I installed my new engine, I went with the LS6 oil pump 12586665. HV pumps costs HP and heat the oil up. Keep in mind that the VLOM holds about a quart of oil, so if you ditch it, only put in 5-5 1/2 qts of oil, in order to prevent the oil from foaming.
Old 03-12-2013, 12:04 PM
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Use the the LS4 style "red" O-ring 12584922 with the LS6 oil pump. You always match the O-ring to the pick up. The Oil pump pick bore dia is the same in all pumps.

BLUE SEAL
Specifics:

* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8) 1st design
* F-Body (1998-2002)
* Cadillac CTS-V (2004-2007)
* Corvette (1997-2008)
* Thickness = 3.55mm (0.140")
ID = 23.60mm (0.930")


GM Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (2nd Design)
12584922

RED SEAL
Specifics:

* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8 engines with 2nd design pick-up tube)
* Trailblazer (2003-2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Hummer H2 (2003-2008)
* Hummer H3 (2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (2001-2008 LS V8 engines)
* W- Body (2006-2008 With LS V8 engine - Impala, Lacrosse, Grand Prix)
* Thickness = 4.20mm (0.165")
ID = 20.69mm (0.815")
Old 03-12-2013, 01:32 PM
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So is the lsa pump the same as the LS6 pump? Or should I get an ls6 option. Sorry about all the random questions
Old 03-12-2013, 01:38 PM
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The LS6 pump is the new replacement for all std volume oil pumps at this time. Bolt it on and be done. Enough said!
Old 03-12-2013, 01:43 PM
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Thanks the only reason I ask about the LSA pump is I bought one brand new because it was cheap. But ill sell it one and get a ls6 one
Old 03-14-2013, 06:56 AM
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The actual answer comes down to engine math.
The stock pump will function fine and the new blueprinted pump will possibly outlast it.
You will get people that say do this or else, well if they did everything correct to start with it most likely would last. Examples of this is some would install a cam and not put a proper chain kit( as the stock set up has a known habit of grinding material off itself due to a walking cam) or put a set of 6500 rpm LS7 lifters (which are better than the stock junk, but not by much and they do pump up)( my choice would be: GM kit P/N/88958689 Racing Hydraulic Roller Lifter• Special reduced-mass internal components allow for higher limiting speeds with aggressive camshaft designs• Tested to 8,000 rpm in GM Racing applications) or the improper length pushrods, or put a .550 lift cam and then put 1.8/1 rockers and exceed the valves limits, or even oil restrictive pushrods in as to prevent over oiling (not). Everything has to be considered (cold and hot)

Last edited by Ill_Born_ss; 03-14-2013 at 07:11 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 03-15-2013, 03:44 AM
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The route I'm going is to turbo the engine and run it as mainly a drag car but it will be used for road going use now and again. I already have a ls2 inlet and We had the thought of running the ls9 cam as its a stock blower cam completely remove the DOD system and run the engine on something like microsquirt. Wanting to try and achieve around 550-600whp, (I know about the gearbox side) so if someone could recommend the lifters,pushrods etc to use that would be great.
Old 03-15-2013, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ls4_newbie
The route I'm going is to turbo the engine and run it as mainly a drag car but it will be used for road going use now and again. I already have a ls2 inlet and We had the thought of running the ls9 cam as its a stock blower cam completely remove the DOD system and run the engine on something like microsquirt. Wanting to try and achieve around 550-600whp, (I know about the gearbox side) so if someone could recommend the lifters,pushrods etc to use that would be great.
Megasquirt won't control the trans you will need something like a standalone tci controller. And the factory pcm is more than capable of getting the job done. Gm high tech and car craft have done a lot of 5.3 boost builds in excess of 600 HP on pump gas do a search and you can find the complete parts list and cost.
Old 03-20-2013, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ls4_newbie
The route I'm going is to turbo the engine and run it as mainly a drag car but it will be used for road going use now and again. I already have a ls2 inlet and We had the thought of running the ls9 cam as its a stock blower cam completely remove the DOD system and run the engine on something like microsquirt. Wanting to try and achieve around 550-600whp, (I know about the gearbox side) so if someone could recommend the lifters,pushrods etc to use that would be great.
Im doing this right now (kinda) Im swapping in a LS4/4t65ehd into my Lamborghini Diablo Roadster kit car. But Im having trouble getting the 58x LS4 to work with the microsquirt. No one (that I can find) has done a 58x & Msquirt, alot of the 24x on the Msquirt but not on the 58x. My M-squirt is at EFISolutions right now getting checked out to find out why its not working.

My drivetrain will be on the test stand until I can get it running, I still have all the DoD stuff in the motor for now. Once I know it will run on the M-squirt then I will swap the LS9 cam, lifters, ect, get that running and tuned. Then I will add the turbo stuff and injectors. Hopefully I will have it figured out soon Im getting real bored with the sbc thats in the car now.

I have everything ready for the swap, the trans controller & paddle shifters is installed and wired, the trans cooler is mounted, the axles are done, shifter mods are done, basiclly everything but a working M-squirt.....
Old 03-20-2013, 05:07 PM
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Sounds like we are on the same lines tony I've never got that far into the management yet it was more the engine mechanics at the present then ill looks at the megasquirt side. But it would be helpful if you could tell me how how you get with megasquirt.
Cheers
Old 03-20-2013, 08:36 PM
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tonypaul, maybe this will assist:
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...=#.UUpied7D_Z4
Old 03-21-2013, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Ill_Born_ss
from what I have read it requires both the cam and crank signal, Im running wasted spark so no cam sensor. If I had to go with the Lingenfelter I might as well jump up to a Megasquirt3.

I got hopes that EFISolutions will be able to sort it out either with the correct wiring and resistors or within the firmware...



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