08 pimpala ss

So today was not that good for the pimpala seems that i have a couple collapsed lifters, I was driving normal and check engine started flashing pulled over and checked it out after swapping coils and pulling plugs on cylinder 1&7 on the front thank god same problem plugs had fuel on them and had spark. So until tomorrow when i pull valve cover and do a compression check i wont be sure but what else could it be. Front pcv is sucking air like it should so motor is good as i would love input on this problem. I have a ls9 cam and gonna get the dod delete kit how hard is it to do the cam? does motor have to come out? who has done a know a few could some point me in the right direction of write up that goes into detail on cam swap

Also The car still starts right up when it does its got a white smoke thats smells like a lawnmower

tim4daflow

Its not hard to do the cam swap have to unbolt the subframe and lower the motor about 6 to inches or so to be able to remove the cam its all pretty simple I did my oil pan gasket while I had the subframe down It took me like 4 day while I was working 12hr shifts just doing some before work

08 pimpala ss

Did you use a engine brace to hold everything up or u didn't take the cradle completely off I have done a few transmissions so I'm familiar with pulling the cradle do you have any pictures of what you did

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-performance/1291195-dod-cam-swap-formerly-known-preliminary-feedback-new-era-g8gt-cam-ls4.html

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

The motor is going to have to come out, its not that difficult to get out once you clear the front of the engine bay in front of the engine and remove the water manifold. Biggest issue we had to clearance was the crank pulley bolt, so you want to drop the engine down first on the lift, zip that bolt out with your impact, and then lift up while someone keeps the flywheel clear of the trans housing.

Scoggin dickey is the company i used for the DoD delete kit, ill provide a link for, but its going to include the LS7 lifters and trays, LS3 valley cover, GM head gaskets, head bolts, and exhaust manifold gaskets. The heads unfortunately HAVE to come off to do the conversion. So your looking at an engine teardown. (see my thread)

The ls3 valley cover has a vacuum port on the back side that isnt required, easy to cut off with a grinder and just fill with JBweld or marine tex. When you do the cam swap, your gonna wanna put a new timing chain and tensioner on, as yours will likely be worn out, my tensioner had deep grooves in the plastic and the spring mechanism was worn out. Another thing that you will HAVE to replace is the front camshaft retainer plate, it has a built in gasket that will likely be flat as a pancake when you remove it, that piece is 13 bucks and cheap insurance as that gasket is a high pressure oil seal. You don't want to have it leak. In order to get the chain off your gonna have to remove the oil pump so now is a good time to do the oil pan gasket since you will have to remove the pan to remove the pump, as the pickup tube will prevent you from removing it.

https://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-...enter/sdafmd53

new cam retainer plate, VICTOR REINZ Part # B32270 FOR RECESSED BOLT HOLES VICTOR REINZ Part # B31822 FOR NORMAL BOLTS



LS3 valley cover

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

Oh, id also like to point out that the LS9 cam has significantly higher lift then our valve springs can support safely, so you will want to look at a valve spring upgrade (and might as well replace the valve stem seals while your there). I used 12499224 "blue" LS6 springs which supposedly were good to .570 lift, however my machine shop did not recommend I exceed .550 as I was at the coil bind maximum clearance at exactly .550 lift. So if your willing, id recommend going with the comp 918's which will give you much more headroom, given that the LS9 cam is a .558/.562 lift cam.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Motor does not have to come out for cam swap


https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-performance/988168-my-ambitious-project.html

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

motor has to come out for a DOD delete, the heads have to come off. unless your skilled enough to take the heads off with it still in the car. or patient enough i should say.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

the other link with the new era cam install shows that it can be done in the car as well of course with subframe lowered a bit.

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

your not listening to me lol the cam swap can be done in the car, yes, the DoD delete has to have the heads removed. The guy didnt do a DoD delete in that thread you linked, he used a DoD cam from a G8.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Nah I misread but here's your proof you can also check rosko85 e85 turbo build
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/72403-Delilah-dyno-rackar/page124

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

that's an ambitious under taking on that rear head, because room is quite limited back there, im sure there was alot of cursing on that job lol

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Lol I know right.

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Are you insinuating these cars can be more difficult to work on then most. Surely you jest! After all GM did get the motor to fit, their job is done.

05GXPjake

No, their job will only be done after they recall our transmissions....

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Agreed.

Torque converter is jacked on my car after a full fluid and filter change plus a cooler.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

That's also a tune issue. These cars are programmed to slip the converter in the name of "comfort" but in reality it just fries it and takes out the rest of your trans from all the particles.

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

You'd be amazed how much MPG you will pick up when you reduce the TCC slip to nothing. lol I picked up 2mpg on my cobalt ss when I ran 100/90 TCC duty cycle but the lockup was a bit too harsh for every day driving.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Yep exactly.That's why I keep repeating get a real tune shift kit cooler and double up on gm recommended intervals and you can stretch the legs on this transaction quite a bit.

I'm not saying it's bullet proof but it works.

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

Are you the only one on this forum with a stock trans? lol Like i said before, can't say that the frequent fluid changes are doing anything to help you, but the trans cooler and shift kit are major upgrades on these thing's. Tune just gives you the added bonus of being able to have more control, but that's not something you can expect everyone to be able to understand that doesn't have tuning experience. Alot of people experiment with line pressure in hptuners and wind up blowing a seal out in the trans.