Mike The Canadian

Folks,

I seem to have developed a drip since switching to synthetic.
What are the common culprits on these cars and how difficult is it to fix?

The leak isn't major by any means but I'd still like to consider addressing it (although I know the pan requires major work to replace the gasket on).

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

only have a couple gaskets to speak of, oil pan, rear main seal (which is a kit), front timing cover seal, and the valley and valve covers. There is a gasket that is OEM only on the port for the oil filter on the pan itself as well.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Grab multiple cans of brake cleaner get up under the car and clean everythin. Re visit a couple of days later to determine where your leak might be coming from. The biggest culprit imo in your case would be the drain bolt not tightened down

gilroy222

How many km on yours? I switched to synthetic last year and haven't had any leaks with 130k on it

gilroy222

This is exactly what I was about to get at after my post lol

Mike The Canadian

Thanks guys, I will clean it up and take another gander.
Crud was built up towards the back and trans pan area.
I noticed this before changing my oil today.

Car has 98k km and I switched to synthetic at 90k km (yes I know I am changing it again a little early lol)

Sint3k

My oil pan was leaking for quite awhile until i did my transmission and replaced the pan gasket. It is likely coming from the part of the pan that is towards "Front" of the engine, "where the accessory belt is right above the subframe rail". Anyways, subframe has to come down an inch or 2 to get it out. I just waited until i did my transmission. While i had my transmission down i also did my front seal, I did not use the "special" centering tool, and 5,000 miles later so far so good. "knock on wood"

impala06ss

Just by 2000 miles, my oil indicator tells me to change mine consistently @ 10k miles, give or take a couple hundred. You appeared to be sarcastic as if you went a little long........before anyone says I'm crazy (and I may be) I have close to 300k miles on mine......proofs in the puddin

Mike The Canadian

Oh I don't think there's anything wrong with 10k changes at all.
Mine was just dirty as hell - I feel weird/wasteful changing too early though was my point.

Grand Prix GXP

How long do you guys typically go between oil changes? I'm using Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30. Thanks.

gilroy222

Most people will disagree with me probably but I go by when the computer tells me. With synthetic I feel more comfortable going longer than the 3000-5000 rule

Grand Prix GXP

Thanks Gilroy. I've been changing it WAY too early, at 3000 mile intervals and recently went past that. It's hard for me to deviate from what I've been doing for so long but I know the oil & filter I'm using is rated for way more.

lVloses

iTrader: (1)

I usually change mine around 5% life left. The way they configure the life expectancy of the oil is fairly accurate.

superglide9375

Yea I'm with ya on comp telling me at about 12-15% life don't think the comp know if it's syn or conventional oil I think it test viscosity but not sure

gilroy222

Ya just from what I've been told and even read on here and in the manual that these new engines are designed to use even regular dino oil efficiently.... so it can't be any worse for synthetic. And you might be right about the viscosity thing cause what I heard about the truck 5.3's is that the new ones actually sense the overall drop in oil pressure from the oil breaking down to get a better reading of when to change... could be bull sh*t though it wasn't a very reliable source lol.....

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

There algorithms based on engine on time rpms and temperature.

Koren

Mine has dod off and still have to put in a extra qt of oil, it's annoying. I'm not sure if I got a leak or what -_-;

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

The PCV systems on LS engines are terrible, thats why catch cans are very common. That's generally what causes alot of the oil burning, when I pulled my intake off to do the mockup for the speedmaster manifold, I had 1000 miles on my rebuild and my intake ports were saturated with oil from the crankcase vent that comes off the rear VC. I'm working on a new system to mount with the intake manifold swap to help alleviate this problem.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

TwI things, gm released a updated oil pan gasket that alleviates alot of oil burning issues.

Secondly a oil catch can help alot as well

https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-perfo...n-install.html

Koren

I heard the gasket install is kinda a pain to do, so I might just do the catch can install..im probably gonna wait until next year when I get the intake I want and save up for more parts, since it's starting to get cold as hell .