SteveCZ28

iTrader: (1)

I'm needing help with the nuts on the cat/downpipe to the car back. I soaked the nuts over nite with pb blaster. Got my socket on it and it wouldn't budge. Got my 1/2 inch impact on it as well, and can't get them to budge. I stripped one. So had to beat the next size down socket on, and impacted it as well with no luck. I thought about just cutting the nuts off. But then I'm worried that the stud is welded on the back side of the flange for cat back. Or will it pop out if tapped on with a hammer? I didn't wanna take a chance by cutting the nut and stud to find out it's welded, and taking a chance of bending that flange by beating on it.
So any input or information would be greatly appreciated.

Mike The Canadian

Maybe a torch may help? Not sure...

SteveCZ28

iTrader: (1)

There's alot of rust on the nuts and studs. Can't even identify threads left on the studs lol. So if the nut does spin, I don't know how far it'll even go.

Sint3k

Put an torch on it, get just the nut red hot and try to impact it. Also dextron trans fluid plus acetone is a grade home made penatrator 50/50 mix

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

It is welded, what I had to do for mine was drop the catback and drill holes into the flange and use nut and bolts. Without oxy acetylene you wont be able to get it red hot, MAPP gas from home depot or lowes might give you enough but id put money on the fact that that thing is so rusted its long past the point of usable.

SteveCZ28

iTrader: (1)

Ok, ya I don't have a cutting torch to get the buts red hot. So I guess I'll end up cutting the nuts off, then cut the head of the stud off as well, and i m thinking I should be able to get that stud out fairly easily (I hope) and hope I don't bend the flange at all, and cause an exhaust leak.

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

worst case scenario do what i did and pick up a ball flange kit and take it to the muffler shop.

impala06ss

can you get a nut busting tool on it? they just crack the nut in half and leave the threads intact

SteveCZ28

iTrader: (1)

i don't know where to get one of those from.
and my worry is, the threads are probably too far gone at this point. but im not an expert at this. so who really knows at this point. lol

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

these have always saved me in a pinch, i keep a full set of like 20 on me at all times

http://www.lowes.com/pd_577634-281-3...0-e5a20b6d7c52

SteveCZ28

iTrader: (1)

i dont have a problem spinning on the nut, when I beat a socket on. but even with a nice 1/2 impact wrench, they still wouldn't budge.

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

At this point playing nice isn't working, gonna have to sawzall them off and replace the piece with a new connector.Use a clamp and have it re welded after.

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

lol harbor freight tools? my IR titanium on 140psi would twist the catback into a pretzel at that point

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Hey, don't be flaming on HF tools . I have their air ratchet that has a ton more torque than my Craftsman junk. Some of it isnt too bad.

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

oh i have a boat load of harbor freight tools, trust me, sometimes i just go in there with a cart and just spend 100 bucks at a time. but their impact guns suck ***. In fact alot of the lower end IR guns suck as well. The central pneumatic earthquake isnt terrible but the IR titanium blows alot of those guns out of the water. If your gonna buy one tool, the IR titanium is the one to buy, it will get you out of alot of jams.

superglide9375

Love harbor freight!!! Got a couple of 3 pump jacks from them no problem whatsoever with them

SteveCZ28

iTrader: (1)

No, snapon

SteveCZ28

iTrader: (1)

I bought an angle grinder, and am going to cut nuts off, then the head of the stud, and I'm thinking i should be able to tap what's left of the stud out of the flange. Won't be able to work on car till Monday, as I work 12s all weekend.

spawne32

iTrader: (2)

i can tell you right now, regardless of what you do, it will never seal right ever again, thats the reason why i just replaced my entire setup.

SteveCZ28

iTrader: (1)

Thought I'd do an update. Pulled my car in the garage again to do the cat. Was able to cut one nut off, and the head of the stud with my angle grinder. Use a small tip on my air hammer, and popped the stud out of the flange trouble free. Attempted to cut the 2nd bolt, which was the driver side but/stud. The angle of it wouldn't let me get my angle grinder in there. Busted out the sawzall. Burned 2 brand new steel blades up trying to cut the stud. So I was dead in the water persay. Got to looking at the rest of the exhaust. Saw it was all hanging by 6 rubber blocks. So I undid all the hangers, and pulled entire exhaust out from under the car. Made it super simple to cut the last remaining nut and stud. Used air hammer again and popped the stud out with ease. Put a straight edge on the exhaust flange, and it was still straight. So used a flap wheel to clean the flange surfaces. Then threw exhaust back under the car. Then got under, bolted the cat to the manifolds loosely and then attached it to the cat back. Tightened to the manifold. Then tightened to the cat back. Started the car, and can't hear any exhaust leaks. Drove the car for a good 30 minutes. Noticed I gained about 3 miles per gallon which I'm happy with. And the car is loud again. Which I also like. Got home, got under car again and still leak free. So I'm very happy. Shut car off, and restarted it and checked for codes. Already have a pending o2 sensor code for sensor 2 after the cat, which was expected with the hi-flow cat. But I can live with that until I get it tuned out.