To buy or not to buy?
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To buy or not to buy?
So I just got back from looking at a 1993 Firebird Formula. I wanted to get everyones opinion on whether or not I should purchase this car or not. Sorry I do not have pics, but I'll try and describe it as best I can
The car itself is a hardtop and black.
The Good:
The Bad:
Additional Concerns
Car has a very rough ride, very shakey. I believe this is due to the solid motor andtransmission mounts plus the addition of the subframe connectors. Is this anything to be of concern?
In all honesty, how much can you beat on a clutch before it goes bad. Im new to driving a manual, my only problem that I need to work on is releasing the clutch more quickly during shifts (once I'm rolling/driving) and downshifting when coming into corners or stops instead of just shifting into neutral and braking. Think I can get the hang of this easily without roasting my clutch to nothing?
Overall the car is in good shape with no rust. Lowest he'll go in $4500. Should I jump on this or let it slide?
Thanks for the opinions!
-Luke
The car itself is a hardtop and black.
The Good:
- 30k on rebuilt LT1 (opti replaced with rebuild)
- New Clutch
- 70K on body
- Small cam (unknown make)
- 6 spd. original T-56
- C5 Rims
- Subframe connectors
- New rubber
- 6 point roll cage
- 3 inch cowl hood (fiberglass)
- Borla catback exhaust
- Hurst short throw shifter
- MSD Ignition
- Headers (unknown make) and 3 inch exhaust all the way back to the borla.
The Bad:
- Usual scuffs and scratches
- driver's side window slow to go up
- Have to unlock passenger side manually (power lock doesn't work on
Additional Concerns
Car has a very rough ride, very shakey. I believe this is due to the solid motor andtransmission mounts plus the addition of the subframe connectors. Is this anything to be of concern?
In all honesty, how much can you beat on a clutch before it goes bad. Im new to driving a manual, my only problem that I need to work on is releasing the clutch more quickly during shifts (once I'm rolling/driving) and downshifting when coming into corners or stops instead of just shifting into neutral and braking. Think I can get the hang of this easily without roasting my clutch to nothing?
Overall the car is in good shape with no rust. Lowest he'll go in $4500. Should I jump on this or let it slide?
Thanks for the opinions!
-Luke
Last edited by Looking4anFbody; 10-26-2008 at 10:04 AM.
#2
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$4500 is a decent price but it all depends on the condition of the car, make sure u inspect the car throughly and try to get some type of warranty (90 day) if possible ! the subframe connectors are a great upgrade to a f-body cause it stiffens the body and prevents twisting and bending of the body. Don't worry about being a newb to manual trans..ur not alone. I started with a M6 it'll get easy over time and will become fun!
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I got some pics on my phone, but stupid me didn't take my camera with me this morning to grab some pics. I'm not quite sure how to get pics off of my phone (LG Chocolate V2).
Overall I'd give the condition 8-8.5 outta 10.
Overall I'd give the condition 8-8.5 outta 10.
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the rough ride will not be caused by subframe connectors at all!! its all in the suspenion! prolly need new struts and shocks and it wouldnt be a bad idea to have it aligned..
you wont have a big problem learning how to drive if you can multi task pretty good!! lol...
really though you should take some more pics of the car and def the cage in it and post them up.some cages can be a yuck setup but be nice looking...
goodluck
you wont have a big problem learning how to drive if you can multi task pretty good!! lol...
really though you should take some more pics of the car and def the cage in it and post them up.some cages can be a yuck setup but be nice looking...
goodluck
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Rough idle is caused by all those solid mounts, so that's easy to take care of. I got my STOCK (only to find out that the motor's been rebuilt at some point, so that was nice) with 93K and a damn A4 for $3800. So $4500 is a DAMN good deal. I'd make SURE it's actually a 6 spd. original T-56 and not the other less sought after M6s that were only in 93s. I can't remember their models, but the only good was the one had higher gearing, but both weren't able to take as much power like the T-56. The only other thing I'm going to say, since I really do like 93's, is that it uses an ECM and not a PCM. Makes tuning difficult, that's the only down side I find for the 93.
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Thanks for the replies guys. I'm pretty sure I'll prolly pick this up next weekend. For the condition of the car I'd say its well worth it. Of course I'll show up with less money then what he is asking for.
Looks like I'll be joining the F-body family here soon! I'm pretty excited!
Looks like I'll be joining the F-body family here soon! I'm pretty excited!
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GU3, GU5 and GU6 are the codes. You won't have GU3 (2.73s) so it'll be either GU5 (3.23s, still good) or GU6 (3.42s, better).
If you want to have him take a picture of the RPO sheet (press in on the sides of the glove box to make it flip all the way open for easier picture taking), you can look them all up here:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...e_GM_RPO_codes
If you want to have him take a picture of the RPO sheet (press in on the sides of the glove box to make it flip all the way open for easier picture taking), you can look them all up here:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...e_GM_RPO_codes
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If I was working full time and not in college then I would deffinally keep the blazer. She has served me so well and is one hell of a good vehicle. Sadly though finances won't allow for two vehicles. Its gonna suck during winter, but thats what I'll have to deal with to own a vehicle I've been wanting for 2 years.
On a side note, LT's + 3" piping + borla = pure sex to my ears.
On a side note, LT's + 3" piping + borla = pure sex to my ears.
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Indeed! On his For Sale sign he didn't mention it had a cam, but when he started it up and I heard it idle for about 5 sec I knew it had one. A small one, but enough that you can tell when you hear it idle.
Calling insurence agent tomorrow and getting a quote, oh joy! Any chance in hell it'll be a little cheaper since its a 'Formula' and not a 'Trans Am'?
Calling insurence agent tomorrow and getting a quote, oh joy! Any chance in hell it'll be a little cheaper since its a 'Formula' and not a 'Trans Am'?
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Indeed! On his For Sale sign he didn't mention it had a cam, but when he started it up and I heard it idle for about 5 sec I knew it had one. A small one, but enough that you can tell when you hear it idle.
Calling insurence agent tomorrow and getting a quote, oh joy! Any chance in hell it'll be a little cheaper since its a 'Formula' and not a 'Trans Am'?
Calling insurence agent tomorrow and getting a quote, oh joy! Any chance in hell it'll be a little cheaper since its a 'Formula' and not a 'Trans Am'?