Engine Removal 94 LT1 (PICS INSIDE)
11-30-2008, 11:45 PM
#1
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Engine Removal 94 LT1 (PICS INSIDE) here is the latest from my 94 LT1 to 94 LT1 swap!
I got the first engine out which was my first time doing this so it was slow because i didnt want to F^^K anything up.
It took me two days because i didnt have all the tools either so i had a lot of tool runs.
Now i am working on my second car and it is going so much faster this time i have all the tools and i know what i am doing!
I got the first engine out which was my first time doing this so it was slow because i didnt want to F^^K anything up.
It took me two days because i didnt have all the tools either so i had a lot of tool runs.
Now i am working on my second car and it is going so much faster this time i have all the tools and i know what i am doing!
11-30-2008, 11:57 PM
#2
nice. it looks so much easier in just 5 pictures XD GL on the swap. the new car is clean as hell! and the pain is beautiful. i got your PM about the spoiler. i couldnt respond for some reason. if you dont manage to sell it in the next week or two send me another pm. if i have the cash for it then well work something out.
12-01-2008, 08:13 AM
#5
Nice work ... I hadn't though about using the STB to allow use of the wheels as a cart ...
Remember, when you put it back in, to put everything back on before it goes in the car.
Headers, opti, dipstick, wires ... everything. It's much easier without the car in the way.
The same way you took it out.
Remember, when you put it back in, to put everything back on before it goes in the car.
Headers, opti, dipstick, wires ... everything. It's much easier without the car in the way.
The same way you took it out.
12-01-2008, 02:51 PM
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i think i will take off the headers and paint them a nice silver or black....then i am going to take the intake manifold off and paint it red!
change the timing chain also!
any suggestions?
change the timing chain also!
any suggestions?
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12-01-2008, 03:05 PM
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BIGGEST TIP MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A VARIETY OF TOOLS THAT WAS MY BIGGEST ISSUE AND TIME CONSUMER.
I plan on replacing timing chain, painting intake manifold, and painting headers.
I plan on replacing timing chain, painting intake manifold, and painting headers.
12-01-2008, 05:46 PM
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instructions... can you or anyone else write up some instructions on this method maybe? Tools or sizes needed would be real good too. I'm gearing up for this myself and really like the idea of the leave the wheels on and roll it out deal.. I'm thinking it will be something like jack car up in front unbolt or at least loosen the front K member to frame bolts, remove steering coupler, brake line connections, driveshaft, trans shifter linkage and other things like unclip wiring harness stuff, then lower back onto wheels, finish removing K member bolts, bolts on trans crossmember maybe with a jack to help it drop down onto the creeper and then finally the shock mount bolts, then grab the car itself with a crane and hoist it up enough to roll the motor out the front?
12-01-2008, 05:54 PM
#13
I just did the same thing not to long ago.
I would slap some new heads or a new cam in there while you got it down.
Working on the engine without the car in the way is one of the more beautiful things about working on a fourth gen.
Nice work.
~Jim~
I would slap some new heads or a new cam in there while you got it down.
Working on the engine without the car in the way is one of the more beautiful things about working on a fourth gen.
Nice work.
~Jim~
12-01-2008, 06:55 PM
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yeah here is what tools i found most usefull.
3/8 fuel disconnect tool
T50 Torx bit (for shock towers)
assortment of deep sockets with extensions.
assortment of box wrench's.
here is how i did it this time and i will list the problems i ran into.
1. i drained all the fluids out of the vehicle except for the oil.
2. took of alternator, and radiator it seemed to give me more room with radiator off!
3. disconnected brake lines, steering linkage, and all hoses to motor.
4. removed drive shaft and torque arm.
5. jacked up rear of car and placed it on ramps to get car off the ground a lot higher in the front.
6. jacked up from of the car and placed jack stands under the frame out of the way.
7. disconnect all wiring from engine and tranny.
8. place jack under K member and lift up the car once again and place jack stands under k member.
9. loosen the 6 bolts that hold the engine to the frame, but leave the shock tower bolts in.
10. support the tranny with a jack because once you untighten the cross member the tranny wants to drop.
11. loxer the car back down and disconnect the shock tower bolts and the motor and tranny should be free now.
12. I used and engine hoist and took a chain around the radiator support area and lifted the car and it did not do any damage to the support!
13. raise the car and watch to make sure everything is disconnected and that nothing gets caught.
14. roll the motor out from under the car!
Once you have all the tools and you have done it once it isnt that hard!
When i first looked at the motor and thought about it while it was in the car i was like man this is going to take a while, but it only helps me better understand the way our cars are set up and how to work on it when bigger things come up in the future.
Hope this helps!
I have to take the motor out of my blue camaro i will try to do a step by step process on that car with pictures!
3/8 fuel disconnect tool
T50 Torx bit (for shock towers)
assortment of deep sockets with extensions.
assortment of box wrench's.
here is how i did it this time and i will list the problems i ran into.
1. i drained all the fluids out of the vehicle except for the oil.
2. took of alternator, and radiator it seemed to give me more room with radiator off!
3. disconnected brake lines, steering linkage, and all hoses to motor.
4. removed drive shaft and torque arm.
5. jacked up rear of car and placed it on ramps to get car off the ground a lot higher in the front.
6. jacked up from of the car and placed jack stands under the frame out of the way.
7. disconnect all wiring from engine and tranny.
8. place jack under K member and lift up the car once again and place jack stands under k member.
9. loosen the 6 bolts that hold the engine to the frame, but leave the shock tower bolts in.
10. support the tranny with a jack because once you untighten the cross member the tranny wants to drop.
11. loxer the car back down and disconnect the shock tower bolts and the motor and tranny should be free now.
12. I used and engine hoist and took a chain around the radiator support area and lifted the car and it did not do any damage to the support!
13. raise the car and watch to make sure everything is disconnected and that nothing gets caught.
14. roll the motor out from under the car!
Once you have all the tools and you have done it once it isnt that hard!
When i first looked at the motor and thought about it while it was in the car i was like man this is going to take a while, but it only helps me better understand the way our cars are set up and how to work on it when bigger things come up in the future.
Hope this helps!
I have to take the motor out of my blue camaro i will try to do a step by step process on that car with pictures!
12-01-2008, 07:04 PM
#16
If you happen to have a access to a air ratchet and a compressor, you can save yourself a lot of time.
Doing it all by hand is very hard on the back and shoulders (ask me how I know)
Even if only a small compressor, you can break bolts loose manually (breaker bar or long-handled socket wrench)
then finish them (the tiring part) with the airtool.
At the very least, pick up a speed wrench.
Doing it all by hand is very hard on the back and shoulders (ask me how I know)
Even if only a small compressor, you can break bolts loose manually (breaker bar or long-handled socket wrench)
then finish them (the tiring part) with the airtool.
At the very least, pick up a speed wrench.
12-03-2008, 10:09 PM
#20
Another tip ... make notes (or label) of all of your grounds ... take pics if needed for future reference.
Might be a good idea on any harness plugs you are not using [ie : !EGR]
Clean the grounds and the surface they contact when you put them back.
It'll save you troubleshooting later.
Might be a good idea on any harness plugs you are not using [ie : !EGR]
Clean the grounds and the surface they contact when you put them back.
It'll save you troubleshooting later.