LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

electric pump or standard

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-11-2008, 11:32 AM
  #1  
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
RED94Z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Peoria Illinois
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default electric pump or standard

I have done the searches for this topic and i do not want to start all kinds of arguements on flow #'s and all that garbage. Im just asking on my car that i drive a grand total of 2000 miles a year if a ewp would be better for me.. I rarely take the car to the strip and mainly just cruise around with a few street races every now and then. Just wondered if electric would be the way to go on my setup

thanks guys
Old 12-11-2008, 11:38 AM
  #2  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
 
ABA383's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southern PA
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

On my set up I got 9-10 rwhp across the tested rpm range with the Meziere...I was never able to just test just that mod on the strip because I made a few other changes before I went racing...So far its been a good mod. I only drive about 4-5000 miles a year and it stays fairly cool. Because of the nature of the electric motor running at a constant speed it stays cooler at idle in traffic than my old mechanical, but runs a bit warmer at cruise...

--Alan
Old 12-11-2008, 11:44 AM
  #3  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
multmigs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: valley forge PA
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I've looked at this same issue recently myself, here's what I decided: Yes you can get a marginal HP gain with the Electric, however what I look for is what is going to be the thing that puts the car down on the side of some highway in the middle of nowwhere and then how does it get repaired, yes we would all hope that it doesn't happen but lets say ur electic does shut down on you and ur in the middle of the powertour or something else not down the street from where u live, provided you even catch this yourself and don't get into a overheated situation, you then get towed somewhere and try to deal with whatever backyardigan mechanic your faced with, who may have no idea of such parts, or how to get then repaired, so then what you wait 2-5 days for UPS to get a new one to you whereever u are and hope they put in on right? My thought is the regular pump is very well know at this point and available reman anywhere for less than $100.00. If you are just a local drag racer type guy I'd say OK esp since you get a bit more coolin effect as its sitting waiting to state but otherwise I say use the stock part, hell get a spare and leave it in the spare tire well right, you still have $$ to spare... Ideally we'd all carry this, plus spare opti, wires, accesory belt and a full metric tool kit right?
Old 12-11-2008, 11:52 AM
  #4  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (12)
 
ulakovic22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lantana, TX
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I would say it doesn't matter for you one way or the other. Switching to electric is for someone looking for every little bit they can or a drag racer that wants to cool the car without having to run it. Since you aren't doing either don't waste your time.
Old 12-11-2008, 12:00 PM
  #5  
Banned
iTrader: (12)
 
Elliott's94Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Oregon Grown
Posts: 4,370
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by RED94Z28
I have done the searches for this topic and i do not want to start all kinds of arguements on flow #'s and all that garbage. Im just asking on my car that i drive a grand total of 2000 miles a year if a ewp would be better for me.. I rarely take the car to the strip and mainly just cruise around with a few street races every now and then. Just wondered if electric would be the way to go on my setup

thanks guys
Looks as if you have most of the bolt on's already so it might be nice to top it off with a Meziere Pump. I like mine and haven't had any issues with it. If you do get one I would rec the HD one Meziere offers. You can expect another 10 to the rear with one as well.
Old 12-11-2008, 12:11 PM
  #6  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
2XR95Z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 1,351
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I'm looking into these also, how do you wire them up? just on a switch and u have to flip the switch everytime u drive or what? I like the fact that i could cool the car without it running....
Old 12-11-2008, 12:16 PM
  #7  
Banned
iTrader: (12)
 
Elliott's94Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Oregon Grown
Posts: 4,370
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by 2XR95Z28
I'm looking into these also, how do you wire them up? just on a switch and u have to flip the switch everytime u drive or what? I like the fact that i could cool the car without it running....
This might help ya... http://www.projecttransam.com/projects9.asp
Old 12-11-2008, 01:17 PM
  #8  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
 
Puck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,152
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Go for the electric. If reliability is a huge concern you can keep a spare motor-it only takes a few minutes to change one out.

A lot of electrics out live the factory pumps anyway.
Old 12-11-2008, 01:41 PM
  #9  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (21)
 
koolaid_kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 3,023
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

O.K., based on the premise that constant versus variable flow numbers are not an issue:
1) If it fails while you are on the road, all the shipping companies have overnight by 10 a.m. the next morning shipping, so that should not be considered an issue.
2) If your only goal is horsepower increase, You are looking at around $250-300 or so, given that you will also need a relay and should install an LED that will tell you if it fails (or is running, however you wish to connect it). That works out to $25-30 per horsepower. Is it worth it to you? Only you know that answer.
3) It removes the main reason for Opti failure; the waterpump seal failing and dousing the Opti with coolant. The rear hole is plugged with a freeze plug and should never leak. This is why I went electric. I hate replacing the Opti, it is nothing less than a supreme PITA, as well as being expensive.
Just some food for thought. Best of luck with your decision.
Old 12-11-2008, 02:48 PM
  #10  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
I8ASaleen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: N. Richland Hills
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Pretty much what puck said about electrics going out, get a relayed warning system, have a spare motor - it's a 5 min. change and then you bleed the system and you're on your way.
Old 12-11-2008, 03:51 PM
  #11  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
 
1badzee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SFL
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

My car is my daily and I have the Meziere water pump. Never had a problem. Even cruising on the highway for hours the temperature stays at 180* at all times
Old 12-11-2008, 04:12 PM
  #12  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
 
Puck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,152
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 1badzee
My car is my daily and I have the Meziere water pump. Never had a problem. Even cruising on the highway for hours the temperature stays at 180* at all times
I also noticed that my cruising temps did not rise, even though on paper they technically should have. I guess the air damn works well enough to compensate unless you are road racing or at extended periods of high rpms.
Old 12-11-2008, 06:08 PM
  #13  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
 
1badzee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SFL
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Forgot to mention me cruising = WOT for several times while driving hahah



Quick Reply: electric pump or standard



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:38 PM.