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LT1-LT4 Modifications
1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

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Old 12-24-2008, 11:21 AM   #21
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I just don't know where to jack up on the motor? the crank hub is off cause i took the timing chain cover off and i obviously can't jack up on the pan... Anyone have any ideas?
Is it safe to jack it up on the torque convertor if i put a 4x4 under it?
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Old 12-24-2008, 11:39 AM   #22
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you wont be able to slide the oil pan out if you jack from the converter. the oil pan is too long. you might have to wait until you get some things back together.

or find someone with a engine hoist to lift from the top of the motor
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Old 12-24-2008, 11:47 AM   #23
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i did mine when the trans was out,2x4 across the oil pan, i jacked it up , did not damage the pan
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Old 12-24-2008, 12:04 PM   #24
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I think i may just get a cherry picker and hoist the engine up a bit... We'll see this weekend what i end up doing.
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Old 12-25-2008, 06:11 PM   #25
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actually, ive done oil pan gaskets 2 times WITHOUT dropping anything. let me make it very clear it was a gigantic bitch and would not recommended doing it but it can be done that way. basically you cram your hand inside the crankcase and guide the gasket along over the humps of the crank/rods

the second time i actually cut the gasket and set it in place without removing the oil pan, just dropping it down a tiny bit then i rtv'd the crap out of the area of gasekt i cut and it never leaked a drop..
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Old 12-25-2008, 06:51 PM   #26
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I was thinking about just threading the it through the crankcase, only problem with that is gettin the other gasket fully off and gettin the lip nice and clean to make sure the gasket seals correctly. Plan on working on it on saturday so we'll see what happens.
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Old 12-25-2008, 06:55 PM   #27
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i just did my oil pump a week or two ago. and this guy i know hase a hoist that goes on the strut mounts and pulls the motor up. i pulled the intake and you can pull the pan all the way off but you have to take that oil Psi sensor off the side and it will give you full accesss
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Old 12-25-2008, 06:57 PM   #28
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What do you mean strut mounts? little confused lol
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Old 12-25-2008, 07:33 PM   #29
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Good luck man..Im lookin' for a simple way to go about this myself, when I upgrade oil pans this winter.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:10 PM   #30
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Quote:
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i did mine when the trans was out,2x4 across the oil pan, i jacked it up , did not damage the pan
how do you get it up 3 inches without the bottom of the y pipe hitting the chasis, i have single cat 1995 trans am, i got everything out, trans, flywheel, starter, oil level sensor, i have it jacked up from the oil pan using 2x4 and the motor mount bolts are out as well. i could only get the driver side to go up like 1-2" Also I took off my CAT, it was cut after the collector.
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:17 AM   #31
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Holy old thread batman
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:37 AM   #32
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I recently had my pan off. I put the jack under the bellhousing and it lifted perfectly fine.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:58 PM   #33
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Quote:
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Hey i know most people say to jack the motor up by the crank hub but mine is off and i need to replace the oil pan gasket and i know u need to jack the motor up a few inches with the motor mount bolts taken out. So I was thinking maybe a jack on the front of the tranny? I'm not too sure where else i can jack it up? its down completely to the shortblock.... Any tips?

ThankS!

If you happen to have a small block Chevy crank socket, slip it on the crank snout, then stick a short extension into the back of the socket. Place jack, with a couple short pieces of 2x4 on the pad, under the extension and raise engine....
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:44 PM   #34
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Jacking up from the front of the crank is simply the most retarded and risky way. I am sure the folks that say do it will chip in to help fix your motor if it gets fucked up though.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:25 PM   #35
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I used the 2x4 method to jack it from the pan, I got the engine up as far as it would go, and then placed cut 2x4s in between the block and motor mount brackets. Worked well to lift and support the engine. I still need an extra 2-3" to drop the pan. I changed my rear main seal, seal to block gasket, and pilot bushing while i was at it. I put the pan back on. Tommorow I will support the engine by the oil pan again (with 2x4s. while I loosen up all six k member bolts (I have an M6). From what everyone says this should give me the clearance I need to remove the pan for a clean install.

I plan to do a dry gasket install with ultra black RTV on the block side of the eight corners. (4 on the edge of the block, and 4 where the timing cover and rear main seal bracket meet the block). I will also be throwing new motor mount inserts in there for the hell of it while its all apart.
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:51 AM   #36
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I plan to do a dry gasket install with ultra black RTV on the block side of the eight corners. (4 on the edge of the block, and 4 where the timing cover and rear main seal bracket meet the block). I will also be throwing new motor mount inserts in there for the hell of it while its all apart.

FWIW. I use the blue one piece Fel-pro oil pan gasket and install it with no RTV. Never has leaked and if the need arises, I can pull or lower the pan with no fear of tearing the gasket due to RTV.
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:49 PM   #37
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FWIW. I use the blue one piece Fel-pro oil pan gasket and install it with no RTV. Never has leaked and if the need arises, I can pull or lower the pan with no fear of tearing the gasket due to RTV.
Thanks for the advice, I read everywhere else that rtv has to be used to hold it in place to prevent leaks with this gasket, I bought the blue one piece almost a year ago, Im about to do the install. Thanks.
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Old 05-24-2010, 05:14 PM   #38
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I just replaced mine 2 weeks ago, using my buddies lift we dropped the pan as far as we could slid the gasket around it and bolted it back up. Didn't have to lift the motor or drop the k member. Just make sure you clean everything up before you slide the new gasket around the pan.
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:42 PM   #39
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I just replaced mine 2 weeks ago, using my buddies lift we dropped the pan as far as we could slid the gasket around it and bolted it back up. Didn't have to lift the motor or drop the k member. Just make sure you clean everything up before you slide the new gasket around the pan.
If I ever do this job again I'm doin it this way. much easier less headaches. After taking off my stock y-pipe, shearing 3 studs, drilling out and retapping half the manifold to y pipe studs, breaking a tap inside one of the holes and spending atleast 6 hours doing that, dropping the k member to the end of the bolts, and jacking the motor sky high; using saran wrap around the oil pan to prevent loose gasket from dropping in and not droppoing the oil pan or taking off the y seems alot easier. only 5 of my 10 fingers dont have cuts on them.

I'll post some pics of the clean install.
-includes:

new rear main seal, seal housing to block gasket, oil pan gasket and pilot bushing.

I will be doing motor mounts tomorow. as well as reintalling the y-pipe, starter and flywheel.

The plan for the weekend will be new clutch. I bought a Mcleod kevlar disc and pressure plate. hopefully ill be driving it by memorial day!
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:46 AM   #40
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Thanks for the advice, I read everywhere else that rtv has to be used to hold it in place to prevent leaks with this gasket, I bought the blue one piece almost a year ago, Im about to do the install. Thanks.
Even the sheet that comes with the Fel-Pro gasket says to use no RTV. Good luck with it.
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:46 AM
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