electric fan question
12-24-2008, 06:32 PM
#1
electric fan question ok, my 95 LT1 car is kicking the fans on as soon as i start it up. they only run when the engine is running, and it is running both fans. this normally wouldnt be an issue except that they will not allow the car to heat up enough to get any heat out of the heater core. ive replaced the sensors with new ones, and it still does it. ive traced the wires and found no shorts or bare wires sticking it out anywhere. anyone have any ideas? ive recently added long tubes to it and stripped the cat off. could it be that it is running in a "safe" mode until i get it tuned?? any input would help greatly.
karl
karl
12-24-2008, 06:40 PM
#2
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Check the fuse box. See if someone rigged them up to fix an issue. See if the relay has wires coming out of it. Also, check and pull the fuse and relay wile the car is running to see if someone bypassed the original GM wireing and wired the fans them selves.
Other than that the only thing I can think of is the car does not sense the water pump sensor. (controls the cooling fans, the sensor in the head does the gauge. If the car doesn't sense the water pump temp sensor it will kick both fans on high to protect the car from overheating.) Or someone changed the on temps in the tune which cause it to come on before the car has actually heated up.
Good luck
Other than that the only thing I can think of is the car does not sense the water pump sensor. (controls the cooling fans, the sensor in the head does the gauge. If the car doesn't sense the water pump temp sensor it will kick both fans on high to protect the car from overheating.) Or someone changed the on temps in the tune which cause it to come on before the car has actually heated up.
Good luck
12-24-2008, 08:16 PM
#4
the wiring in the car has never been tampered with in any manner that would hard wire the fans. i knew it, but also double checked just to be sure. also when i first got the car the fans were operating normal. they are tuned to come on earlier, but not when the engine is cold. the car used to run in the 190 to 210 range depending on how hot it was outside, but now they come on right away. both coolant sensors are brand new. does anyone have any idea what the sensor in the air box does? it is listed under the coolant parts, but not sure what it does.
12-25-2008, 10:07 AM
#6
well it comes on and goes off from time to time, but i think that has to do with it needing retuned for no cat and long tubes. ive checked all i can check with wires, relays, and so on. perhaps i should replace the wire connecters on the sensors???
12-25-2008, 10:25 AM
#7
There are a few CEL codes that will cause the fans to run continuously. Fi that and see if the problem is resolved. Far as not letting the car blow warm heat, that is what the thermostat is for, if airflow stopped the engine from warming up they would not get warm when driving.
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12-25-2008, 10:40 AM
#8
well when both fans are kicking on and sucking air in that is in the 10-30* range, that will most definately keep the engine from warming up! the thermostat does its job to perfection. everything in the system works flawlessly except for the fans, which in turns effects the heater.
12-25-2008, 11:14 AM
#9
well when both fans are kicking on and sucking air in that is in the 10-30* range, that will most definately keep the engine from warming up! the thermostat does its job to perfection. everything in the system works flawlessly except for the fans, which in turns effects the heater.
12-25-2008, 01:07 PM
#10
my fans were doin the same thing. it was cause my check engine light is on and it keeps the fans on. all i did for a quick fix is where the fuze to the fans are inside i just took the fuze out and put a wire into each side where the fuze would go and ran them to a switch in my console. then i can just manualy control my fans with that switch. you just have to be aware of wat your doing and remember to cut them on. i just did this until i can get it tuned later. i know its not "safe" cause your getting rid of the fuze. but its just a quick fix for now.
12-26-2008, 01:30 AM
#14
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Weird My best guess is something in the wiring. or its throwing a code and its not showing up yet kicking the fans on. Maybe your check engine lite is out. Since its a Lt1 you could always blame the opti. Really though something is not right somewhere or those fans wouldnt be comeing on at key on or start up. Pretty sure replaces the wires to the sensors at the block and water pump dont have a thing to do with whats happeing . Noticed you said something about the long tubes and the cat and needing a tune. You might need to check out HEATED 02s For your setup. There for long tubes and being there back futher there not getting the proper reading due to your exhaust temp being cooler on Longtubes. But this might not apply to your year of car.
12-26-2008, 07:09 AM
#15
well when both fans are kicking on and sucking air in that is in the 10-30* range, that will most definately keep the engine from warming up! the thermostat does its job to perfection. everything in the system works flawlessly except for the fans, which in turns effects the heater.
Like I said if airflow would stop the engine from warming then DRIVING the car would stop it from warming up, not the experiance I have had, not even at -20F. Driving causes a lot of airflow.
12-26-2008, 10:49 AM
#16
well no offense 96 caprice but a friend of mine who is an ASE certified master mechanic has confirmed that the only thing keeping the car from warming up is the fans. i unhooked them both and let it warm up to 210* and had plenty of heat, so i know that is the only issue.
12-26-2008, 11:07 AM
#17
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well no offense 96 caprice but a friend of mine who is an ASE certified master mechanic has confirmed that the only thing keeping the car from warming up is the fans. i unhooked them both and let it warm up to 210* and had plenty of heat, so i know that is the only issue.
The air those fans move on high is equivilant to driving at 40mph.
It sounds like you may have two seperate issues. If it warms up with the fans disconnected then you have a thermostat problem. As for the fans comming on right away it could be from a bad connection from the CTS to the PCM or its even possible it may have set a code for the t-stat problem and is putting it into safe mode(fans on high all the time)
Your ASE certifed buddy should know that the T-stat controls the temperature of the engine and the fans control the temperature of the coolant.
12-26-2008, 11:13 AM
#18
ASE certification means certified parts changer, has nothing to do with true understanding of processes. VERY rarely will you find a technician with a level of understanding that an enthusiast achieves, they are just parts changers which is fine, just don't mistake it for an indepth understanding of things.
Like I said, by your argument the car would not warm up driving, I find that the car warms up fastwer driving as opposed to idling.
I am harping on this because long as you refuse to understand the system you are going to struggle to fix it.
Like I said, by your argument the car would not warm up driving, I find that the car warms up fastwer driving as opposed to idling.
I am harping on this because long as you refuse to understand the system you are going to struggle to fix it.
12-26-2008, 11:46 AM
#19
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ASE certification means certified parts changer, has nothing to do with true understanding of processes. VERY rarely will you find a technician with a level of understanding that an enthusiast achieves, they are just parts changers which is fine, just don't mistake it for an indepth understanding of things.
ASE is just a paper test, you dont need to apply your skills in the real world to pass it. From personal experience the worst techs I have worked with were ASE certified.
One "certified" guy that worked next to me had a battery sitting on the floor and was using it to test for B+ at a trailer hitch harness, the positive terminal was not connected to any thing, just his test light from the battery ground to the harness. I told him what he was doing was not going to work, he got pissed and said I was a retard. He spent two days checking and running new wires just to come to the same result. Finally he broke down and asked for my help.
