HELP crank snout being a beyotch
12-30-2008, 11:15 PM
#1
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HELP crank snout being a beyotch I stripped 2 3 bolt pullers trying to remove crank snout/hub not exactly sure what it is technically called but that F&%#ER will not budge!!!
12-30-2008, 11:26 PM
#2
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I guess I should have asked if anyone has any tips/tricks to get this thing off it would be a life saver...as of right now I am paying 9 dollars an hour to use the lift that my car is on and I have spent a lot of time trying to get this thing off 
12-30-2008, 11:49 PM
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Do a search on crank hub and there are a few helpful threads that will come up in this section. I had to use a puller with a 4" bolt and a socket on the end to eventually get it off.
12-30-2008, 11:54 PM
#4
you need this
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...LIS-45300.html
I just yanked one off my engine I am building, and you will also need a good air or electric impact gun.
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...LIS-45300.html
I just yanked one off my engine I am building, and you will also need a good air or electric impact gun.
12-31-2008, 08:42 AM
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that is the same one that I used except the only difference is that the holes in the puller itself were a little bit larger so I could fit old head bolts through there that thread right into the hub, also tried both methods of using a half inch drive breaker bar **stripped** and a half inch drive pneumatic impact wrench **stripped** Now I have already stripped two different sets of snap-on 3 bolt pullers, there has to be a trick for sticky hubs, I can't possibly be the only one that has had problems with this!
12-31-2008, 08:51 AM
#6
i used a three claw puller. any of the 2 styles will work. what we did to get that stupid thing off was buy another hardened bolt the same thread pitch and length as the original bolt. just so we could wreck one if we had to.
we threaded it in the snout almost all the way in. we left a gap for the hub to move. we wrenched on the puller until it moved a good 1/8 inch. then we threaded out the bolt another 1/8 inch. then wrenched on the puller. threaded out the bolt a little more and kept doing this until it popped off. basically your using the head of the bolt that is threaded in as a 'push' point.
we threaded it in the snout almost all the way in. we left a gap for the hub to move. we wrenched on the puller until it moved a good 1/8 inch. then we threaded out the bolt another 1/8 inch. then wrenched on the puller. threaded out the bolt a little more and kept doing this until it popped off. basically your using the head of the bolt that is threaded in as a 'push' point.
12-31-2008, 08:56 AM
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that is what I was doing except I didn't have an extra bolt I was using the original crank bolt but figured if I wrecked it I would get another one, maybe the pullers I was using were already a little compromised in the threaded portion but with the amount of pressure I put on it I would think it would have at least budged.
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12-31-2008, 04:24 PM
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this is nuts, if I had posted a stupid *** poll about the best sounding lt1 on here I would have gotten 30 ****** replies, but when you honestly have a TECHNICAL question, I get 4 replies...what gives???
12-31-2008, 05:56 PM
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well theres alot of people that can give their opinion on what exhaust sounds good. thats easy. but not everyone knows how to pull a crank snout off. heat it up if you can and try a 3 claw puller.
12-31-2008, 06:26 PM
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I did a write up on this a few months ago here: http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/remove...lt1-crank-hub/ Make sure that you are pulling on the bolt and not the the hub.
When you go to install it back use the tool, don't hammer it back on.
When you go to install it back use the tool, don't hammer it back on.
12-31-2008, 06:33 PM
#13
99% of the time during the hub removal, people are using the wrong tools. You need an allen headed bolt roughly 3-4 inches long. It must be slightly smaller in diameter than the threaded hub bolt.
1. You remove the hub/balancer bolt.
2. Place the allen headed bolt into the center, it will bottom out. The purpose of the allen head is to center the puller.
3. Install your puller onto the hub, and then the center bolt with the pointed tip should be aligned with the allen head on the bolt you placed in the crank.
4. Impact gun will take you 10-15 seconds.
*this is what people do wrong*
1. They don't use an allen bolt, and the puller never stays centered.
2. They use the stock crank bolt (which has a big spacer on it BTW), and it doesn't come out of the crank because it is usually rusted up and needs some cleaning to get it out. But that becomes impossible, since they end up moving the hub out 1/2 an inch until there is no more room to go with the stock bolt.
3. They don't use any bolt, thinking that the puller is touching the crank, when in actuality it is bottomed on a step inside of the hub, and they practically try to pull apart the hub, which in turn breaks the puller itself.
Now go get yourself an allen headed bolt about 3-4 inches long
1. You remove the hub/balancer bolt.
2. Place the allen headed bolt into the center, it will bottom out. The purpose of the allen head is to center the puller.
3. Install your puller onto the hub, and then the center bolt with the pointed tip should be aligned with the allen head on the bolt you placed in the crank.
4. Impact gun will take you 10-15 seconds.
*this is what people do wrong*
1. They don't use an allen bolt, and the puller never stays centered.
2. They use the stock crank bolt (which has a big spacer on it BTW), and it doesn't come out of the crank because it is usually rusted up and needs some cleaning to get it out. But that becomes impossible, since they end up moving the hub out 1/2 an inch until there is no more room to go with the stock bolt.
3. They don't use any bolt, thinking that the puller is touching the crank, when in actuality it is bottomed on a step inside of the hub, and they practically try to pull apart the hub, which in turn breaks the puller itself.
Now go get yourself an allen headed bolt about 3-4 inches long
12-31-2008, 06:43 PM
#14
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now that is what I was looking for...if there was a smiley face clapping his hands it would be appropriate. Thank you for the solid info backed up by what sounds like extensive experience. The puller getting tweaked on there makes a lot of sense, I read about the allen head in the manual but misinterpreted it as the allen was supposed to be the same size and pitch as the crank bolt itself. I found it to be pointless but new info has come to light and has triggered what could be referred to as an epiphany.
