Kmaroman

iTrader: (1)

Well i kind of went into it thinking it would be easy. After the first few minutes I realized I'm going to need help. What do I need to do to get the old mounts out an new ones in. Is there a certian tork i have to put them to or just crank ehm down. It looked like it was going to be a bitch to change, looks may be decieving are they as bad to change as they look? Any input is helpful thanks

Ihasfip

iTrader: (5)

For what its worth the shop labor guide we use (Mitchell) calls for only like 1.2 hrs...granted that is with proper tools and mechanical knowledge. So for the shadetree guy in his drive way I would imagine 2.5-3 hrs tops.

D

Kmaroman

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for telling me the time, but how exactly do you replace them take them out put them in

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

You're going to have to jack up the engine and pull the pins out of the motor mounts. The You will unbolt the motor mounts from the engine and replace them. I haven't attempted to do this with the engine in the car on a LT1. I have done it on a LS1. I don't know if the stock manifolds will get in the way or not. Either way, it won't be a fun job.

Ihasfip

iTrader: (5)

Ok, put the car on some jack stands. Jack the motor up with a block of wood. Loosen the long bolt the goes through the mount and take it out. (Do one side at a time.) Then unbolt the top half of the mount from the motor and wiggle it out. Then once you have it out cut/drill the rivets pry it open and get the insides out. Put new one in and bolt it shut. Sneak it back in and bolt it all up. Thats the driver side. On the passenger side its easier. Same deal just unbolt from the k-member this time. Good luck. Not a fun job especially without a lift.

D

1994greenz28

iTrader: (2)

I just did it on my 94. I replaced the stock ones with a prothane engine and trans mount set. It's just like Ihasfip said. I took my mounts to a machine shop to separate them b/c not only are they attached by rivits, they got some other style that I couldn't drill out. They charged me 20 bucks. Once you get them apart, the new mounts go in and once they are bolted back to the block and k member(drivers side mount is bolted to block, passenger side is bolted to k member, at least on '94s) they will stay in place in the clam shell. If you already haven't bought them, I'd go with the prothane kit. 100 bucks from Jegs. I think the stock ones are just as much. On the passenger side, the long bolt that connects the mount to block, you will have to unbolt the a/c compressor move it out of the way for it to come out. When I reinstalled this bolt, I just put it backwards so I won't have to unbolt a/c compressor if I have to do this again. Just one less thing to do.

Kmaroman

iTrader: (1)

i got some prothanes i bought off a member, at my my inlaws house cause he has a lift i just can't figure out where to jack the motor itself on

sweet-94z28

iTrader: (30)

use a block of wood under the pan

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

The factory rivets are a PITA with a drill, grinder, and a good size pry bar I would allow for about an hour to get those things apart by itself. I did it with the engine out and it still sucked.

95 bright teal

I did them on my 95, I had a very small amount of tools, and not much wrenching experience. It was difficult but not that bad, just take your time and make sure everything is well supported

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Old rivets are truly a PITA. Get a very good drill and a bench vice. Lining them up was also not a cake walk .

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

can anyone explain to me why the Prothane kits for LT1 are $99 but you can buy the engine mounts only for $50 and the trans mount seperate for another $22?? what extra part is coming in the "LT1 kit"???

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

It probably comes with prothane bushings for the sway bar mounts and endlinks, and a prothane torque arm mount.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Good way to do away with all this rivet drilling and grinding is to get GM replacements which are already in a clamshell.

95 bright teal

True, but they are expensive, atleast where i found them.

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

you can get prothane mounts for a very good price through byunspeed, they are one of our sponsors so I think I can get away with giving them a shout out but they are like 75 for engine and tranny mounts, it isn't a terrible job as long as you aren't in a hurry, it will take a couple of hours.

95 bright teal

I got the prothane ones, OEM from carquest was over 100 a peice

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

check ebay. there is a place on ebay that sells a BUNCH of motor mount stuff for LT1's from a wrecking yard in florida.... they sent me a new passenger side box mount (the thing that attaches to the k-mbr) and a clamshell motor mount for the dvr side..;.. used obviously but was in very good condition. I think I got both of em for like 60 bucks or so....

Kmaroman

iTrader: (1)

okay had to get this thread going again, it seems my friend who said he'd help is kind of being lazy. So anyways all I'm replacing is the rubber an metal piece not the whole thing you know just the piece that the long bolts go through. Do istill have to drill the rivets out or whatever you guys are talking about, cause im kind of lost

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

yeah you have to drill out the rivets and separate the clamshell to replace the worn out rubber mounts with the poly ones, if you took them out of the car it is pretty self explanatory.