CaribooLou

iTrader: (1)

So come this summer i plan on putting a new motor in the car. I read a lot and have learned tons from this site and I think I'e got a good idea on a solid motor for a DD. The car will probably never see a track, I just want a street monster that can handle sever 300 mile trips to and from school per year. I also want it to last a very long time. Here's what I have planned, any input would be much appreciated...

- Rebuilt bottom end with Ai's forged 355cid rotating assembly consisting of
- Compstar Forged 4340 3.48" Stroke Crankshaft
- Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
- Mahle Forged Pistons (-5cc, -16cc, or -26cc)
- Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
- Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
- Main and Rod Bearings Included
- Internally Pre-Balanced by Callies/CompStar!
- Ai 200cc Heads
- Ai 226/234 .569/.570
- Ai Valvetrain Kit consisting of
- ARP 7/16" Pro Series Rocker Studs
- GM Hi-Performance Roller Lifter Kit
Includes New "Dogbones, Spider," & fasteners!
- Ai Hardened & Black Oxided Steel Guideplates
- CC1305 Pro-Magnum Rocker Arm 1.6 Ratio
- CC7202 Hi-Tech Pushrod Length Checking Tool
- Ai 4130 One Piece ChromeMoly Hardened Pushrods 5/16" x 7.XX" .080" Wall
- Comp High-Tech Race double roller timing set
- ARP Fasteners
- Lingenfelter CAI
- MAC Mids (trying to stay as emissions friendly as possible)
- MadZ28 Tune

I'll probably wait on a throttle body and having the intake ported because that is a lot of cash for a minimal gain. Same with a stall, I'd like a Yank 3400 but don't think it will be affordable right away.

I'll be doing all of the work except for the machine work and possibly the short block assembly. Also I've accounted for all accessories (opti, plugs wires, ect.) I haven't thought about gaskets yet either.

A few questions:
- What size injectors will I need?
- I need to pass a MD sniffer test, do you think this cam can be tuned to pass?
- Is going forged necessary, or am I overdoing it?

Thanks for the help.

CaribooLou

iTrader: (1)

Also, what kind of power do you think this will put down?

CaribooLou

iTrader: (1)

anything?

lt197formula

iTrader: (6)

I did a stock rebuilt bottom end with a larger cam, aggressively ported stock heads, supporting mods and put down numbers in sig. But I have an M6 so I would guess 370-380hp? Especially since you're staying with mids and getting it tuned to hopefully pass emissions. Hopefully someone who is more familiar with A4's will chime in.

A ported intake and 58mm tb sure helped on the top end like 5500rpms+ because our stock intakes are pretty crappy for up there. I'd say wait a bit longer and do this at the same time.

I went with SVO 30lb injectors, they will be fine for your setup

Forged isn't necessary but it sure is nice. I wish I had done it but didn't to save money so I'll just rebuild a bigger forged engine down the road.

Hope this helps.

Mark

joelster

I think it's solid but a little overkill.

No real need for fully forged stuff if you ain't going to spray it or rev it high. Aftermarket cast stuff is very strong. Overall it looks like a very solid build though. Just up to you if you want to save some bucks.

PS, I guarantee you'll have it at a track within a year.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

First of all, nice set up, except for the mids.
As the previous posted said, forged is nice, but usually not necessary.
I would look to get some injectors in the 30-36# range.
I also agree to getting the intake done and a TB at the same time as the heads and cam. Do your best to save for it all at once.

You will not be happy with the gains until you get a stall, and gears will only make it better. Yank 3400 is good, and save up for some 3.73 gears.

Also the cam is pretty large to try to be emissions friendly, but hopefully it works out for you.

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

If ur gonna go with the Ai forged 355 kit, might as well go 383 and pick up some extra cubes for the same price, ur pretty much gonna be using all the same parts, and prob just some bigger injectors(36lbs) than what u would use on the 355.if iwas DD driving it i would Go with the budget 355 . but thats me. but if u want some good POWA N/A go with the 383, u will have almost the same HP as the 355 but more torque

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

yes loose the mids, get some 3:73s, dont go 4:10 if auto and u DD the car..

CaribooLou

iTrader: (1)

I understand about the mids. I'm just not sure how tough MD emissions laws will become in the next few years. Price is also a factor, but as you can probably tell I wont settle for "cheaper" parts like pacesetters.

I'm gonna wait on the gears until I can afford to put a 9" in.

**** maybe I'll just send it off to Lingenfelter haha

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Ok, I can understand waiting on the gears. Stall is still essential though. Mids will perform, but with a full build there will be a good amount of power left on the table.

CaribooLou

iTrader: (1)

I was under the impression that the mids will not perform well at the top end of the power band, and since the plan (for now at least) is to keep it as a DD that wont see high revs that often.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Just throwing number out the top of my head but the top end of the power band you are talking about is probably like 4500rpm and up. Your cam 226/234 cam peakes at 6200rpm which would probably make shifting at ~6500rpm optimal. So 4500-6500 is a huge chunk of your power band.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Reuse the stock crank if a 355 is what you want, its a good peace and for what you want with the car it should do perfect. If your dropping money for a crank might as well aim at building a set up for a stroker. Jason Warren was going mid 9s on the stock crank in his 355.