whammer33024

iTrader: (6)

hey guys...i've got a spare lt1 laying around that i want to build into a 355. i'm just going to have them do the bottom end because i'm going to put the LE2 package on the top end and can do that myself. my questions are, what should i be making sure they do? i might spray 125 shot at the most. she's maybe going to see the strip a couple times in her life, but mostly a weekend/show car. what do you guys think i need? stock rods? aftermarket rods? recommendations on pistons? whatever else i should be making sure they do...thanks guys!

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Machine work:
You will need a bore, hone, align hone, square deck, magnaflux, heat tank, recondition the rods (if reusing stock rods) and new rod bolts, 4.030" hypereutectic pistons (if your not going forged), polish the crank, new cam bearings, main bearings, rod bearings, balance the rotating assembly.

You can replace the stock rods and hypereutectic pistons for some forged I-beam or H-bean rods and some forged aluminum pistons (depends on your budget). Mahle or JE pistons are good, moly rings, eagle rods. Stock crank will be fine. Normally the machine work listed above can top 2-3 grand quick.

SLawson86

iTrader: (8)

^^ he is right... but i SURE hope his quote includes parts

whammer33024

iTrader: (6)

see now that's why i wonder cause i sort of talked to the guy today and he told me $1181 bucks...then said if you want better pistons it will cost a little more and what not...am i missing something?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Yeah. I'd say maybe right at 2k after machine work and balancing with stock rods, crank, and hypereutectic pistons.
3k for forged internals.

1181 is NOT going to cut it.

SLawson86

iTrader: (8)

taking my own parts to the machine shop... them hanging the pistons on the rods, boring, honing, checking the main saddles, decking, magnaflux, hottank, cam bearings, and balancing the assembly i was almost 1200 in labor. i supplied the bearings and rotating assembly. be more specific on what he is going to do for the said price... if it is including installing a rotating assembly, i would be worried

SLawson86

iTrader: (8)

but keep in mind, the machine shop i took mine to is a bit more in price than the competition. (very very precise guy, spec sheet of all clearances, torque applied to bore/hone) that price is NOT including polishing/grinding crankshaft, resizing rods, or assembly... i replaced the entire rotating assembly

whammer33024

iTrader: (6)

i'll have to call him again and make sure that price includes all that i'd want out of him. he did say that price included grinding on the crankshaft. maybe i'm just getting that good a deal, lol...i'll let you know when i talk to him again

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Make a list and get their price for each individual task...don't ask how much for a rebuild.

Tasks:
-bore & hone w/ torque plates
-align hone with main caps and oil pump torqued in place
-square deck
-heat tank
-magnaflux
-cam bearings
-cut/polish crank
-recondition rods, install new rod bolts (if reusing stock rods)
-pin the new pistons to the rods
-balance the rotating assembly

The total should give you a rough estimate of a rebuild, instead of asking how much over all. That price does not include the cost of new pistons, new rods (if not reusing stock rods), and new main and rod bearings.

whammer33024

iTrader: (6)

thanks SS...you've been a big help. do you think i need to go forged or would i be okay with stock stuff?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I'd say it's not absolutely necessary, but if you have the money, do it. Just make sure your N2O set up is done with all the fail safes and you should be good to go.