How Much HP?
03-01-2009, 04:07 PM
#1
How Much HP? Ok I read through a bunch of posts in the dyno archive but I couldn't really seem to find a good comparision. I have a 95 Firebird Formula M6. Currently it has a K&N CAI and Electric Cutout. Now heres what I was thinking I'm going to buy.
CC503 and all supporting parts
1.6 RR's
Electric Waterpump
NGK Plugs and Wires
160 Degree Thermostat
Also are there any headers that work with the stock y pipe? I don't feel like paying to have my cutout cut out of the stock y pipe and welded into a new one.
CC503 and all supporting parts
1.6 RR's
Electric Waterpump
NGK Plugs and Wires
160 Degree Thermostat
Also are there any headers that work with the stock y pipe? I don't feel like paying to have my cutout cut out of the stock y pipe and welded into a new one.
03-01-2009, 04:56 PM
#2
I don't know of one header that works with the stock y-pipe, probably because the stock y-pipe is just as restrictive as the stock exhaust manifolds.
With those mods, I'd expect anywhere from 330whp to 350whp with good tuning.
I can see your point about cutting out the cutout and welding in another one, but that's such a small cost at this point. You can cut it out for free and have it welded back in for what, $30 to $50? Especially since you're going to be paying at least $1000 for all those other parts.
With those mods, I'd expect anywhere from 330whp to 350whp with good tuning.
I can see your point about cutting out the cutout and welding in another one, but that's such a small cost at this point. You can cut it out for free and have it welded back in for what, $30 to $50? Especially since you're going to be paying at least $1000 for all those other parts.
03-01-2009, 05:25 PM
#3
I don't know of one header that works with the stock y-pipe, probably because the stock y-pipe is just as restrictive as the stock exhaust manifolds.
With those mods, I'd expect anywhere from 330whp to 350whp with good tuning.
I can see your point about cutting out the cutout and welding in another one, but that's such a small cost at this point. You can cut it out for free and have it welded back in for what, $30 to $50? Especially since you're going to be paying at least $1000 for all those other parts.
With those mods, I'd expect anywhere from 330whp to 350whp with good tuning.
I can see your point about cutting out the cutout and welding in another one, but that's such a small cost at this point. You can cut it out for free and have it welded back in for what, $30 to $50? Especially since you're going to be paying at least $1000 for all those other parts.
03-01-2009, 05:41 PM
#4
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I don't know of one header that works with the stock y-pipe, probably because the stock y-pipe is just as restrictive as the stock exhaust manifolds.
With those mods, I'd expect anywhere from 330whp to 350whp with good tuning.
I can see your point about cutting out the cutout and welding in another one, but that's such a small cost at this point. You can cut it out for free and have it welded back in for what, $30 to $50? Especially since you're going to be paying at least $1000 for all those other parts.
With those mods, I'd expect anywhere from 330whp to 350whp with good tuning.
I can see your point about cutting out the cutout and welding in another one, but that's such a small cost at this point. You can cut it out for free and have it welded back in for what, $30 to $50? Especially since you're going to be paying at least $1000 for all those other parts.
EDIT: Oh yea, if you run LTs you'll need to get O2 extenders as well. Don't cheap out and try to extend them yourself
03-01-2009, 05:43 PM
#5
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i will sell you my cc503.
this is a cc503 right?
im going with a custom blower cam and figure i can offload this one to help recoup expenses. say.. 150 bucks?
this is a cc503 right?
im going with a custom blower cam and figure i can offload this one to help recoup expenses. say.. 150 bucks?
03-01-2009, 05:43 PM
#6
Not so much of it being restrictive, but more of it not lining up with LT header collectors. Though anyone with a welder and experience with fabrication could work the factory one work, you're better off spending the extra $80-115 on the correct Y-Pipe. If you don't have to deal with emissions, you could get an Off Road Y (ORY). You'd also be better off ditching the cutout for now, since you'd not gain much after you install LTs. Best bang for buck headers and Y is from Pacesetter, which I saw on Summit for I think it was $290 on the LTs and I bet a sponsor could give a better deal with a Y-Pipe (not cheaper, but just better than LT and Y purchased separate). Here's the LT part number with emissions 70-2235 or with out 70-2239, and Y-Pipe 82-1161
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03-01-2009, 07:07 PM
#12
i'm a poor high school student as well. i hate buying parts and then replacing them later on too, but why would you pay all that money for a cam and then choke it to keep a $30 part on? you'll lose more power through the manifolds/stock cats than you would if you ran headers through the stock catback, and you can always just have it welded in when you have some money again.
and where in the exhaust is it? if it's back by the merge or at the back of the I pipe right before it goes over the axle you can still do longtubes/ory and have them connect into the stock exhaust before the cutout so you won't have to replace it.
and where in the exhaust is it? if it's back by the merge or at the back of the I pipe right before it goes over the axle you can still do longtubes/ory and have them connect into the stock exhaust before the cutout so you won't have to replace it.
03-01-2009, 08:45 PM
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You two dating or something?
And I wasn't implying for what I said to "educate" you. I only aimed it towards you so you wouldn't jump on my case for saying it's irrelevant and try and point out "Oh, now he's trying to say that roller motors impose no wear onto their cams!". I forgot I was going to teach you reading comprehension, so from now on I'll try to spell out what I mean. Here goes: "Look RamAir! I'm making an addendum (too big of word?) to what I said. Hopefully by me doing this it won't make you flip your lid and save you some time as to not have to post sometime in an attempt to correct me. Aren't you proud of me?!"
So I'm sorry for trying to help him out by telling him something that he may not have known based on his question. Seems I can't do anything right in your eyes, even when I provide factual info!
How long will your trolling go on for, just a rough estimate will work
And I wasn't implying for what I said to "educate" you. I only aimed it towards you so you wouldn't jump on my case for saying it's irrelevant and try and point out "Oh, now he's trying to say that roller motors impose no wear onto their cams!". I forgot I was going to teach you reading comprehension, so from now on I'll try to spell out what I mean. Here goes: "Look RamAir! I'm making an addendum (too big of word?) to what I said. Hopefully by me doing this it won't make you flip your lid and save you some time as to not have to post sometime in an attempt to correct me. Aren't you proud of me?!"
So I'm sorry for trying to help him out by telling him something that he may not have known based on his question. Seems I can't do anything right in your eyes, even when I provide factual info!
How long will your trolling go on for, just a rough estimate will work
03-01-2009, 09:00 PM
#16
i'm a poor high school student as well. i hate buying parts and then replacing them later on too, but why would you pay all that money for a cam and then choke it to keep a $30 part on? you'll lose more power through the manifolds/stock cats than you would if you ran headers through the stock catback, and you can always just have it welded in when you have some money again.
and where in the exhaust is it? if it's back by the merge or at the back of the I pipe right before it goes over the axle you can still do longtubes/ory and have them connect into the stock exhaust before the cutout so you won't have to replace it.
and where in the exhaust is it? if it's back by the merge or at the back of the I pipe right before it goes over the axle you can still do longtubes/ory and have them connect into the stock exhaust before the cutout so you won't have to replace it.
03-01-2009, 09:06 PM
#17
Sure.
"No problem... I just can't believe teh stupidity some people spew, with the shitty attitude to boot, and no-one says anything about him like he is 'right'... No wonder his attitude gets worse, he goes unchecked..."
"lmao you schooled that ***...hes pretend like he knows his ****"
"hey joe, havent seen you around on the forums for a couple yrs...hows the t/a been? and dont mind formula350, hes the resident dooshbag"
"Don't knock Formula350. I used cardboard for my headgaskets. Worked terrific!
"
And my personal favorite...(a public post, by the way, that you can read yourself...I'll even link you! https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-advise-2.html )
"no you dont, you would rather bash others over the head with your ignorance than just give honest advise. What if i was a newb and tried using cardboard like you said earlier. You never said anything about it being a temp fix. And to make things worse you jump all over the guy who gave a simple bit of help. It's really annoying to have people like you on here, and iv only been here for a few months. But i guess you cant fix stupid. Oh and you can add me to the list of people to "not bother with"."
Names have been omitted to protect the innocent.
"No problem... I just can't believe teh stupidity some people spew, with the shitty attitude to boot, and no-one says anything about him like he is 'right'... No wonder his attitude gets worse, he goes unchecked..."
"lmao you schooled that ***...hes pretend like he knows his ****"
"hey joe, havent seen you around on the forums for a couple yrs...hows the t/a been? and dont mind formula350, hes the resident dooshbag"
"Don't knock Formula350. I used cardboard for my headgaskets. Worked terrific!
"And my personal favorite...(a public post, by the way, that you can read yourself...I'll even link you! https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-advise-2.html )
"no you dont, you would rather bash others over the head with your ignorance than just give honest advise. What if i was a newb and tried using cardboard like you said earlier. You never said anything about it being a temp fix. And to make things worse you jump all over the guy who gave a simple bit of help. It's really annoying to have people like you on here, and iv only been here for a few months. But i guess you cant fix stupid. Oh and you can add me to the list of people to "not bother with"."
Names have been omitted to protect the innocent.
Last edited by RamAir95TA; 03-01-2009 at 10:15 PM.
03-01-2009, 10:51 PM
#19
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ill look tommorrow at the shop for more numbers. no idea on the age of it, considering the rest of the car (blower, ported heads, cam, moser 12 bolt, ported intake, etc etc ) being done only a few thousand miles ago, id venture to say the cam was installed then also.
03-01-2009, 11:03 PM
#20
ooo sorry i forgot where the cat is positioned on lt1's. at least when you're ready the headers will be an even bigger gain this way haha.