95phoenix

Hey guys, I'm getting ready to start building the block that I picked up a few months ago. I'm not doing anything too serious.. just a stock rebuild with h/c. Anyway, I'm on a pretty tight budget but I'm looking for reliable parts also. Here's what I have picked out for the bottom end....

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...66-000&FROM=MG

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...35700P&FROM=MG

.... and the top end will most likely be either LE1 or LE2 setup.

What are your opinions on the parts I have listed...

Thanks!!

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Given your situation, you do not want to simply install new pistons and rings with the stock bore. I'd strongly suggest having the block bored at least .020" (most common is .030", results in a 355 using the stock crank/rods) with torque plates. You will want to start with a fresh surface on the cylinder walls when doing a rebuild. You will also want to align-hone the mains as well before installing new main and cam bearings.

For what you're looking for, the stock crankshaft and rods will more than suffice, and they will save you some dough. The stock crank and rods will be more than enough. Find a nice forged/hyper piston (Mahle makes a nice budget hypereutectic piston), a good set of rings, and ARP rod bolts (weakest link in the bottom end). AI offers a package deal rebuild kit that uses your stock crank and rods using the aforementioned Mahle pistons. You'll want your crank turned and polished .010" at least (to clean up the journals) and have the entire rotating assembly balanced. Be very sure to install oversized bearings as well.

The LE1/2 packages are very nice. If you haven't checked out AI's 190cc package, it too is a very good deal for the performance it provides.

If you're lucky, you could probably have this done for around $2000 - $2200 (including parts) for the bottom end. Most importantly, find a reputable local shop to do the work for you, because having someone to talk to face to face in case you have any questions is extremely beneficial.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Well put.

95phoenix

Yea, I know of a good shop around here that I'm going to have everything honed and cleaned up. I wasn't going to bore it out because I didn't think it would be necessary because the cylinder walls are in very good shape. ( I can get some pictures of them if you want to give me your opinion though.)

I have ALL the stock parts as this was a complete engine when I bought it. So I could always reuse the stock crank, rods, pistons but I saw the rebuild kit on summit.. Is it not worth it or what? Do you have a link to the AI kit you mentioned?
I'm going to have tons of questions as I'm trying to put parts together for this. So thank you guys for helping!!

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

You need to get the block bored, honed, and aligned hone...plain and simple.
Call up Ai tell them what you want and see what kind of parts they can get you for what price.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

It is very common for high mileage LT1s to have very nice cross-hatched cylinder walls. The tolerances from the factory are good enough that they maintain said clearances very well over time (probably why LT1s seem to run better with age). Having said that, it's always a good idea to have the block bored.

Here is the link to the AI package. http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiP...sCompStar.html They include forged H-beams, but for your application, you could probably do without them and same some extra dough as the stock reconditioned rods will be fine.

I'm opposed to the Summit engine rebuild kits, because you never know exactly what you're getting (I'm sure someone will claim otherwise, but that's my opinion). AI will provide you with LT1-specific proven parts. You should also let your machinist select what bearings they end up using.

95phoenix

Awesome!! I really appreciate the help!