Bones Z28

iTrader: (8)

Looking for ARP posi locks just for my stock heads and 1.5 rockers. I did a cam swap a while back and noticed that after a couple months the rockers must have loosened. Because the valves are fucked up and the car runs like ****. So before I go back and do zero lash again, someone mentioned ARP posi locks to lock down the rockers. I can lock them down and forget about them then.

Does anyone have a part number for ARP posi locks for stock LT1 heads running stock 1.5s? Also I don't know if it makes a difference but I have Impala SS heads (cast iron). I don't believe the studs are different "in size" but I just wanted to through that in.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

If your rockers came loose after only a couple months, I would venture to say that you didn't properly adjust them.
Something you can do is readjust them, and use an extra nut on each stud. Lock the two nuts together and it shouldn't ever loosen.

Bones Z28

iTrader: (8)

Ok, could be. I do want the proper locks ARP sells though.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Two nuts will work fine, save yourself some money.

shbox

Good stock nuts with good studs should never loosen.

Bones Z28

iTrader: (8)

Alright you have a point there. I'll use the double nut to lock them in.

Well, also Idk if this is the case. But I am running the stock rockers with a custom grind cam from Bret Bauer. He made is sound like the cam was designed with the fact that I would be running 1.6's. I wouldn't think this would matter but doesn't sound good that I'm running the stock rockers lol. Because of those press fitted studs in my impala heads (what a wonderful surprise), I was hesitant to run 1.6's. I guess there are some 1.6rrs I can run that are 3/8 and self aligning. I'm waiting for him to get back to me.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

you wont be able to use poly locks with your stock rockers. they require a different rocker in order to use them. the only reason you couldnt use the ones you bought originally was because they needed a 7/16th stud. stock is a smaller 3/8 stud. your studs were pressed in also which sucked. grrrrr

the other problem is that you cant use Non self aligning(NSA) rockers because you have the pressed in studs which prevents you from bolting on the guide plates. so your kind of stuck with some kind of self aligning 1.6 rocker atleast until you get bolt on type rocker studs

which leads to another problem since you have very little valve stem showing for the rocker to sit on. an aftermarket self aligning(SA) has deeper arms on each side to keep it on the stem. so they will probably come in contact with the retainer a lot more then the stockers.


i still think you may have gotten a set of "offset locks" which is screwing with how much valve stem your seeing

Bones Z28

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I got a hold of Bret and he's selling me a set of self aligning 1.6 rr's with the poly locks, all comp cams. They'll be compatible with my impala heads. I am going to run the valve lock problem by him though. But like I told ya before I plan to pull the heads this weekend. Let me see if loading the springs with the heads off works better. But like ya said before. I'll see was Bret knows and if it's a problem with the locks the way they are.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

The ARP poly-lock nuts are GREAT but won't fit under a stock valve cover. I know, I tried it....

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

damn i didnt know you were pulling the heads just to change springs. thats alot of work for a spring swap. Your going to need headgaskets, new head bolts, and lots of thread sealant, coolant, RTV silicone.

your gonna have to take the heads to get checked by a machine shop to make sure they arent warped. if there going to be off i would take them to a place that can pull the studs and replace them with bolt-on style studs. then just use the rockers you originally bought if you havnt sold them yet.

Bones Z28

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the heads up leadfoot, I should be ok, I have Canton Racing valve covers.


yeah, gaskets and sealant are what I planned on replacing. Why do I have to have them checked out if they're warped? If they're taking off carefully, can't they just be put back on? I don't want to invest a lot into these heads, because once I get the s/c I plan to step up to the Trick flows I showed you. But that is a long enough ways away that I'd like to run a set of 1.6's on these heads in the mean time. I can always sell them later on.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

i understand, but you want to make sure that the surface mating to the block is perfectly flat. cast iron heads wont warp as bad as aluminum, buts its still good to have them checked out by a shop. Just over time the heat from the motor can distort the head slightly which could lead to a blown headgasket down the road if you just throw the heads on without checking. its just something that needs to be checked.


if the locks werent seated correctly on the valve stem they would of flew off the second the motor was started. im just trying to save you some work, thats all. its just a lot of work to take heads off, only to find out nothing is going to change with the springs.

Bones Z28

iTrader: (8)

Yeah I know dude, definitely appreciated, I'm set. Obviously we've already talked since then. I'll have a shop look at the mating surfaces if they appear warped, no problem. As for the rest, I know we talked and now I'm on track, but I figure I'll write this **** in, in case anyone else ever has this problem and does a search.

Because of my WONDERFUL impala heads... I ended up going with a self aligning 1.6 rocker from Comps which come with the poly locks. 7 deg locks and retainers as well (CCA-648-16 and CCA-787-16). Gonna sell the 10 deg titanium retainers. They barely have any mileage on them, ****, I drove the car maybe for 1 week at most lol. Should get some decent cash back.