Arizona Speed and Marine?
03-31-2009, 06:00 PM
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Arizona Speed and Marine? Anyone have any experience with Arizona Speed and Marine? I've heard nothing but good things about their 58mm throttle bodies. Right now they are having production issues and apparently have been telling people 4 weeks for about a month now. I called today and again was told 4 weeks.
Are they that good that I should wait to get one of theirs? Or should I go with BBK, Edelbrock, Holley, etc?
Before people chime in that I don't need one .... I'm building a 383 street/strip motor starting with a Golen short block, ported heads, cam, etc...
Are they that good that I should wait to get one of theirs? Or should I go with BBK, Edelbrock, Holley, etc?
Before people chime in that I don't need one .... I'm building a 383 street/strip motor starting with a Golen short block, ported heads, cam, etc...
03-31-2009, 06:55 PM
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You will notice no difference between any of them peformance wise. The only thing your paying for is the quality and name. Im running a Lingenfelter 58mm. Had to make a few modifications for it to work, but its a killer peice of aluminum.
03-31-2009, 08:05 PM
#5
It is still "just a 58mm" so there will not be a performance difference, and the price at first is hard to swallow.
Once you get the piece though and see the amazing quality and just how badass it looks, you will feel its worth every cent. I could not believe the quality and visual difference between the billet AS&M and the cast summit/PP I replaced. Just the difference in the foil has gotta be worth some flow on a big cube aggressive setup. Instead of sharp cutoffs and a sandy finish it is thinner and all smooth and polished.
Summit/PP Cast 58mm
58mm Billet AS&M
Note that both needed the IAC drill mod to idle properly in my H/C build, and there was no noticable difference at all in performance or drivability.
Once you get the piece though and see the amazing quality and just how badass it looks, you will feel its worth every cent. I could not believe the quality and visual difference between the billet AS&M and the cast summit/PP I replaced. Just the difference in the foil has gotta be worth some flow on a big cube aggressive setup. Instead of sharp cutoffs and a sandy finish it is thinner and all smooth and polished.
Summit/PP Cast 58mm
58mm Billet AS&M
Note that both needed the IAC drill mod to idle properly in my H/C build, and there was no noticable difference at all in performance or drivability.
Last edited by Puck; 03-31-2009 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Tagged and bolding for identification
03-31-2009, 09:29 PM
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$500 Yeah, $500 was what I saw when I started looking. Then I noticed that the azspeed website says they are on sale for $425. I don't want to swap the IAC housing from my old throttle body. I can get a piece on ebay for about $40 that does not have water passages. So, $300 for another, plus $40 for the IAC housing .... for not that much more I can get the AZ Speed unit. Then again, if they are back ordered that far .... do I wait? Or do I go with another?
Does anyone know of another that is similar quality?
BTW, the IAC housing I'm talking about is on Ebay ... auction 270321149333
Does anyone know of another that is similar quality?
BTW, the IAC housing I'm talking about is on Ebay ... auction 270321149333
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03-31-2009, 09:51 PM
#8
Yeah, $500 was what I saw when I started looking. Then I noticed that the azspeed website says they are on sale for $425. I don't want to swap the IAC housing from my old throttle body. I can get a piece on ebay for about $40 that does not have water passages. So, $300 for another, plus $40 for the IAC housing .... for not that much more I can get the AZ Speed unit. Then again, if they are back ordered that far .... do I wait? Or do I go with another?
Does anyone know of another that is similar quality?
BTW, the IAC housing I'm talking about is on Ebay ... auction 270321149333
Does anyone know of another that is similar quality?
BTW, the IAC housing I'm talking about is on Ebay ... auction 270321149333
The top one was the summit/PP style that needs to reuse the stock bottom bracket.
03-31-2009, 09:54 PM
#9
You have to drill a small hole through the passage and isolate it to the intakes IAC passages so that idle air can go into the runners like it belongs.
It was not a problem when I was just bolt-ons, but with the added reversion from a H/C cam I needed to do the mod for it to idle properly on my 93.
03-31-2009, 10:37 PM
#10
Stock TB has a 1/8" hole. On modded heads/cam cars hole size of 11-13/64" is common. I emphasize you should have scan software to read this data as you drill the hole size larger.
you want:
TPS=.67vdc closed throttle, 4.50 vdc full open
IAC: 25-35 at idle
04-01-2009, 11:54 AM
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The TPS that they use is from a TPI car. I had to splice into the harness. Not a big deal it works fine. I wasn't to fond of it at first, but was talked into doing it becuase it really is a bad *** peice. I also notched the bottom of the throttle body to allow the connector to fit better. Thats about it. Im just trying to get it to idle right, for the most part right now. Its almost there...but gets alittle crazy at times.
04-01-2009, 11:55 AM
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"Most" aftermarket TB's require this to idle correctly. Not recomended to do "blindly" so scan tool should be used to measure TPS and IAC data to see WTF is actually going on.
Stock TB has a 1/8" hole. On modded heads/cam cars hole size of 11-13/64" is common. I emphasize you should have scan software to read this data as you drill the hole size larger.
you want:
TPS=.67vdc closed throttle, 4.50 vdc full open
IAC: 25-35 at idle
Stock TB has a 1/8" hole. On modded heads/cam cars hole size of 11-13/64" is common. I emphasize you should have scan software to read this data as you drill the hole size larger.
you want:
TPS=.67vdc closed throttle, 4.50 vdc full open
IAC: 25-35 at idle
I have TTS Datamaster to scan. Ive just been waiting on an Activation Code. BAH! Thanks for the info. Big help!
04-01-2009, 11:58 AM
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The TPS that they use is from a TPI car. I had to splice into the harness. Not a big deal it works fine. I wasn't to fond of it at first, but was talked into doing it becuase it really is a bad *** peice. I also notched the bottom of the throttle body to allow the connector to fit better. Thats about it. Im just trying to get it to idle right, for the most part right now. Its almost there...but gets alittle crazy at times.
04-01-2009, 05:33 PM
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That is the one I'm using. The only problem I ever had was the TB getting stuck WOT a few times (maybe three) in the years I've owned it.
The IAC plug is a little tricky to get in/out, but not too bad.
This may be a stupid question, but are you sure the TPS is adjusted correctly?
And yes, agreed... this is the most quality piece of aluminum on my engine.
The IAC plug is a little tricky to get in/out, but not too bad.
This may be a stupid question, but are you sure the TPS is adjusted correctly?
And yes, agreed... this is the most quality piece of aluminum on my engine.
04-01-2009, 06:40 PM
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That is the one I'm using. The only problem I ever had was the TB getting stuck WOT a few times (maybe three) in the years I've owned it.
The IAC plug is a little tricky to get in/out, but not too bad.
This may be a stupid question, but are you sure the TPS is adjusted correctly?
And yes, agreed... this is the most quality piece of aluminum on my engine.
The IAC plug is a little tricky to get in/out, but not too bad.
This may be a stupid question, but are you sure the TPS is adjusted correctly?
And yes, agreed... this is the most quality piece of aluminum on my engine.
This is how I adjusted mine. I took the set screw and turned it till the blades started to move. Then I turned the key to on (not starting the engine) and adjusted the TPS to .67vdc. It idles rather high at first then comes down to around 1000 rpms. Now its sparatic and idles 500 rpms sometimes as well until you kick the pedal and it goes back to around 1000. Now since im running a TPS from a TPI/Early LT-1 should I set the TPS to .50vdc as it requests for that sensor? Or should I keep it set @ .67vdc?
04-01-2009, 08:35 PM
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The sensor doesn't care what the voltage reading is so you should stick with LT1 adjustment standards. Have you checked on your IAC or have you tried to reset it? I guess the problem started when you put the TB on?
