1slo_camaro

iTrader: (2)

hey guys im trying to do more **** to my own car. me and my dad have always done old school motors SB & BBC. so i understand the basic concept of how to do it. but since our motors are roller motors ( CORRECT? ) do the valves get adjusted to No Lash? or is there a GO/NO GO system used for these? if so what are the peramaters?


If it matters, my motor is a stock head stock intake, LT4 Hotcam, 383. hypereunetic pistons and H-Beams.


Can someone please send some insight my way.

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

What rocker arms do you have?

If you already know how to adjust flat tappet hydraulic cam motors you should be fine, its basically the same thing as far as which valve to adjust when, you typically do zero lash then another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Zero lash is when you feel resistance on the pushrod while spinning it as you tighten the rocker down.

shoe box has a good write up its about 1/2 way down this page.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

When me and the buddy would build 'garage motors' for toys, he'd usually do the valves, but I recently swapped in (and regasketed) a motor for a Tahoe of his and I ended up doing the whole thing. If I can get it right, you'll be OK If you have a degree wheel you can put on the crank pulley, it will help out since you just put Cyl 1 on top dead, and then turn it 90º to do the next cylinder, rinse repeat. I actually tried something new (well, new to me as I just thought of it, might not be a new trick) when the motor was out of the truck still. I marked a big + on the flywheel when it was on TDC. That made easy to see every 90º w/o a degree wheel "Redneck" way to do it? Maybe... Effective and works? You bet! lol I tried doing the same thing to the balancer, but didn't work as well heh

RRs change things though, if you have the whole Hotcam package (springs, cam and roller rockers). Not done them, not looked into it either, so I can't offer any advice :\

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Here's one method:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPOaAsuzhsE

You can find a few more on shoebox's page:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves

I've always been a fan of the TDC/adjust this and that valve/turn 360* and adjust the rest. Has always worked well for hyd. roller setups.

moderate Z28

I've always adjusted mine with the engine off. Never had a problem. After you do it a few times its easy. I really dont see how so many people have so much trouble with it.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

You want to get to zero lash, and then add a marginal amount of preload. Depending on what lifters you are using, you can add anywhere from 1/8 turn to 3/4 turn. I'm using LS7 lifters with 1/4 turn of preload.

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

After you adjust them a few times you get a "feeling" for it and don't need to do either of the methods (I've had some practice lol) and you get very fast at it. Its also a lot quicker if you are just adjusting them compared to installing them b/c you will knowtice the intake/exhaust valve movement.

The LT4 actually had a torque spec, but most people adjusted them in a conventional method.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Don't you mean LSx? LT4 is no different in valve adjustment than the LT1 or SBC.

7.0 camaro

i adjust them till they stop clicking. then tighten the polly lock up. that usually adds 1/4 to 1/2 turn. its just like the old school motors. lsx's are the only ones who are different

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

No, the LT4's actually had a torque rating from the factory to adjust their RR's. I didn't believe it at first, because I find a set torque rating would be difficult to adjust the rockers, but that is what they call for.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Sounds like you would want to be a little more consistent when adding your preload...like run the engine, loosen each rocker one a time, tighten it til it stops clanking, add 1/2 turn to the locks, then seat and tighten the set screws.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

First I've heard of that. I still don't believe it...

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

http://www.texasfbody.org/TorqueSpecs/

Down the page under LT1/LT4, I didn't believe it at first either and still wouldn't adjust mine that way if I owned one.

7.0 camaro

i thought thats what i said i did. i run it loosen them up and tighten till it stops making noise. then tighten the set screw. then tighten the lock down. theat helps keeping them from coming loose. and by the time you get them tight its about 1/4 of a turn. their hydraulic so its not real critical. i take more pricision in doing my solid roller race car motor.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I would imagine that is for the poly lock since LT4's came with Crane Gold rockers. There's no way in hell they mean the adjusting nut. It would not be a very good move to put 18ftlbs of torque on an adjusting nut. There is something lost in translation going on there I'm sure...

1slo_camaro

iTrader: (2)

alright wow thanks for all the help guys. BTW i dont have RRs just plain old stock rockers stock valves stock pushrods and all for now atleast

so i can do it like the old school carbed SBC right? have oil clips on it, run it back the nut off till it clicks, take it back down untill it stops clicking, and then no more then 1/4-1/2 a turn after that and set everything? am i correct in thats what everyone is saying? i have read shoeboxes page yet. or any of the links yet. but just for a quick check so i understand we all are on the same page.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Yes. LT1's share the same firing order as any SBC therefore adjusting valves will be exactly the same, but as you stated, using the running method especially with stock rockers would probably be easiest.
Good luck and don't burn yourself.