LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Cooling System Upgrade - Race Applicaion - Options?

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Old 04-08-2009, 12:31 PM
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Default Cooling System Upgrade - Race Applicaion - Options?

I live in Texas where we all know it gets very hot in the summer. So far this year we have had a few 80 degree days and with just that heat my car runs at about 210-220. In cooler weather it runs about 170-180 consistantly which is where Id like to run even in warm/hot weather.

Ive got a 160 stat, tuned for it, stock rad, stock fans, no AC or condensor.

Ive been looking at an aftermarket radiator and possibly new fans. Without having to go to a vertical setup, what are most of the high horsepower street car guys running to keep thier setups cool (car sees street miles, not dd)?
Old 04-08-2009, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroked96Bowtie
I live in Texas where we all know it gets very hot in the summer. So far this year we have had a few 80 degree days and with just that heat my car runs at about 210-220. In cooler weather it runs about 170-180 consistantly which is where Id like to run even in warm/hot weather.

Ive got a 160 stat, tuned for it, stock rad, stock fans, no AC or condensor.

Ive been looking at an aftermarket radiator and possibly new fans. Without having to go to a vertical setup, what are most of the high horsepower street car guys running to keep thier setups cool (car sees street miles, not dd)?
You said you are tuned for a 160 degree thermostat, do you know if you fans were reprogrammed to come on at lower temperatures?
210-220 degrees is normal operating temperature for a stock tuned LT1. The low speed fan is programmed to kick on at 226*F and the high speed fan kicks on at 235*F.
If you reprogram your fans to come on sooner or install a manual fan switch, you shouldn't need any other changes to your cooling system. Many hi-po application builds still utilize the stock cooling system.

Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; 04-08-2009 at 12:46 PM.
Old 04-08-2009, 12:45 PM
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This is a new setup in the car, I havent run this setup in the summer heat so seeing what I could possibly do now to help. If some of the high HP guys are able to keep stock fans and radiators...thats great insight.

So far with a little warmer weather, it seems to effect the engine temps by about 30degrees or so which seems like kind of a large jump (with 80degree outside temp).
Old 04-08-2009, 02:15 PM
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Most guys still run the stock rad and fans with a 160 stat and tuning, It hasnt been real warm here yet but my EWP seems to keep the car alot cooler than the Stock WP, especially at idle
Old 04-08-2009, 02:23 PM
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if your cooling system is working properly and you've had your computer tuned to operate at a lower temps then you shouldn't have any problems keepin it cool. A Ewp is a nice upgrade though !

Last edited by riceburnerZ28; 04-08-2009 at 02:29 PM.
Old 04-08-2009, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
Most guys still run the stock rad and fans with a 160 stat and tuning, It hasnt been real warm here yet but my EWP seems to keep the car alot cooler than the Stock WP, especially at idle
Im running a CSR unit also.
Old 04-08-2009, 02:33 PM
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Either get your fans tuned to turn on at 160, of get a fan switch? At what temp the they kick on?
Old 04-08-2009, 03:03 PM
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I wired myself a fan switch many years ago that kicks both fans on. I normally run them just about all the time and in 85 degree weather with the A/C on I never see higher than 175-180 and the needle never moves.
Old 04-09-2009, 07:09 PM
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I also live in texas, the very southern tip of texas, and it gets hot as hell here. I didn't want any overheating problems, so I went with the be cool radiator. Paid like 550 for it, but well worth it, IMO.
Old 04-09-2009, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by explicit.muscle
I also live in texas, the very southern tip of texas, and it gets hot as hell here. I didn't want any overheating problems, so I went with the be cool radiator. Paid like 550 for it, but well worth it, IMO.
Care to elaborate on that?
Old 04-09-2009, 07:24 PM
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I had the same issue twice and each time it was a cause. The first time it happened was when I mixed up the steam pipe and overflow hoses on the radiator neck. The car ran great all winter amazingly but once it got into the high 70's it would heat up quick. A simple leakdown test let me know I screwed up when I tried to pressurize the system and heard air in the overflow.

The second time this happened was because of a bad radiator. I had the EXACT same symptoms as before... I tried EVERYTHING and it would not run at a constant temp once it got warmer outside. I replace the radiator and have been good since then.
Old 04-09-2009, 09:17 PM
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Depending on cruise rpm it is quite possible the electric is moving LESS water at cruise than the mechanical pump did.

Electrics free up power by moving LESS water. Yes they move more at idle but at idle cooling demands are low anyway.
Old 04-09-2009, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by explicit.muscle
I also live in texas, the very southern tip of texas, and it gets hot as hell here. I didn't want any overheating problems, so I went with the be cool radiator. Paid like 550 for it, but well worth it, IMO.
Thats not cheap for sure, do you remember part numbers etc? Id prefer to look into something that fits in the stock location if I change it up.

Originally Posted by Matts94Z28
I had the same issue twice and each time it was a cause. The first time it happened was when I mixed up the steam pipe and overflow hoses on the radiator neck. The car ran great all winter amazingly but once it got into the high 70's it would heat up quick. A simple leakdown test let me know I screwed up when I tried to pressurize the system and heard air in the overflow.

The second time this happened was because of a bad radiator. I had the EXACT same symptoms as before... I tried EVERYTHING and it would not run at a constant temp once it got warmer outside. I replace the radiator and have been good since then.
I have checked for water pockets in the cooling system a few times but has always seemed normal (coolant coming out quickly after the bleed is opened). I dont run a steam pipe.

Im about to that option I think, its not even really hot outside and it runs pretty hot (hotter than Id like anyway). My last setup ran 170-190 all the time no matter with the AC on or not.

Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Depending on cruise rpm it is quite possible the electric is moving LESS water at cruise than the mechanical pump did.

Electrics free up power by moving LESS water. Yes they move more at idle but at idle cooling demands are low anyway.
This is news to me...good info!! My last setup had the same water pump on it though. Id actually thought the electric moved more water.
Old 04-10-2009, 06:47 AM
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Think about it for just a second. How would it be possible to take rotation turn it to electricity and then back to rotation and get it to do MORE work with LESS HP drain than just using rotation to turn the pump??? Energy form changes are inherently inefficient.

The belief they move more water is VERY VERY common but it is also the definition of a perpetual motion machine.


They do move more water at idle but by cruise rpms and beyond fall behind the stocker. The mechanical can cavitate at HIGH rpms though too, only guys I trust to have found any real data on this say that is not till 6500rpms or so, don't spend much time up there even racing.
Keep in mind the electrics are free flow rated. As installed in the system the mechanical moves 66gpm at 48-4900rpms(engine), again that is as restricted by being installed in the system not freeflow.
Old 04-10-2009, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroked96Bowtie
Thats not cheap for sure, do you remember part numbers etc? Id prefer to look into something that fits in the stock location if I change it up.
I got it thru a local race shop here, but I have seen them in Jegs before, and i'm sure Summit carries them.

M6- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...60028/10002/-1
A4- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...62028/10002/-1

The one for the A4 has the built in tranny cooler
Old 04-10-2009, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by explicit.muscle
I got it thru a local race shop here, but I have seen them in Jegs before, and i'm sure Summit carries them.

M6- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...60028/10002/-1
A4- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...62028/10002/-1

The one for the A4 has the built in tranny cooler
You didn't explain why spending so much money on a radiator was worth it yet.
Old 04-10-2009, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroked96Bowtie
Thats not cheap for sure, do you remember part numbers etc? Id prefer to look into something that fits in the stock location if I change it up.



I have checked for water pockets in the cooling system a few times but has always seemed normal (coolant coming out quickly after the bleed is opened). I dont run a steam pipe.

Im about to that option I think, its not even really hot outside and it runs pretty hot (hotter than Id like anyway). My last setup ran 170-190 all the time no matter with the AC on or not.



This is news to me...good info!! My last setup had the same water pump on it though. Id actually thought the electric moved more water.
Uh, WHAT?!
Old 04-10-2009, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
Most guys still run the stock rad and fans with a 160 stat and tuning, It hasnt been real warm here yet but my EWP seems to keep the car alot cooler than the Stock WP, especially at idle

i have a 160 stat and have tuned my fans for 160 and 170 degrees and i have never seen it run hotter than 179 in florida heat.

EWP would help at idle especially since it delivers a consistant flow rate.
Old 04-10-2009, 08:05 PM
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Manual fan switch = best mod for hot weather. I live in Tx. and when I would go to the track in the summer my car would never sit lower than 210, then I put in a manual fan switch and it sits at 170-180. Now I have an E-WP b/c it's not a street car anymore really (only weekends and when it's cool out - no a/c) so it should sit cool in the staging lanes just like I like it.
Old 04-10-2009, 08:32 PM
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I'm not from texas but it does get close to 105 here in the summer. when I was just H/C, with a csr pump and stock radiator my car would get up above 200 sitting in stop and go. 210 isn't very hot as far as your engine is concerned, I say don't worry about it.


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