Cooling System Upgrade - Race Applicaion - Options?
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Cooling System Upgrade - Race Applicaion - Options?
I live in Texas where we all know it gets very hot in the summer. So far this year we have had a few 80 degree days and with just that heat my car runs at about 210-220. In cooler weather it runs about 170-180 consistantly which is where Id like to run even in warm/hot weather.
Ive got a 160 stat, tuned for it, stock rad, stock fans, no AC or condensor.
Ive been looking at an aftermarket radiator and possibly new fans. Without having to go to a vertical setup, what are most of the high horsepower street car guys running to keep thier setups cool (car sees street miles, not dd)?
Ive got a 160 stat, tuned for it, stock rad, stock fans, no AC or condensor.
Ive been looking at an aftermarket radiator and possibly new fans. Without having to go to a vertical setup, what are most of the high horsepower street car guys running to keep thier setups cool (car sees street miles, not dd)?
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I live in Texas where we all know it gets very hot in the summer. So far this year we have had a few 80 degree days and with just that heat my car runs at about 210-220. In cooler weather it runs about 170-180 consistantly which is where Id like to run even in warm/hot weather.
Ive got a 160 stat, tuned for it, stock rad, stock fans, no AC or condensor.
Ive been looking at an aftermarket radiator and possibly new fans. Without having to go to a vertical setup, what are most of the high horsepower street car guys running to keep thier setups cool (car sees street miles, not dd)?
Ive got a 160 stat, tuned for it, stock rad, stock fans, no AC or condensor.
Ive been looking at an aftermarket radiator and possibly new fans. Without having to go to a vertical setup, what are most of the high horsepower street car guys running to keep thier setups cool (car sees street miles, not dd)?
210-220 degrees is normal operating temperature for a stock tuned LT1. The low speed fan is programmed to kick on at 226*F and the high speed fan kicks on at 235*F.
If you reprogram your fans to come on sooner or install a manual fan switch, you shouldn't need any other changes to your cooling system. Many hi-po application builds still utilize the stock cooling system.
Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; 04-08-2009 at 12:46 PM.
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This is a new setup in the car, I havent run this setup in the summer heat so seeing what I could possibly do now to help. If some of the high HP guys are able to keep stock fans and radiators...thats great insight.
So far with a little warmer weather, it seems to effect the engine temps by about 30degrees or so which seems like kind of a large jump (with 80degree outside temp).
So far with a little warmer weather, it seems to effect the engine temps by about 30degrees or so which seems like kind of a large jump (with 80degree outside temp).
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if your cooling system is working properly and you've had your computer tuned to operate at a lower temps then you shouldn't have any problems keepin it cool. A Ewp is a nice upgrade though !
Last edited by riceburnerZ28; 04-08-2009 at 02:29 PM.
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#9
I also live in texas, the very southern tip of texas, and it gets hot as hell here. I didn't want any overheating problems, so I went with the be cool radiator. Paid like 550 for it, but well worth it, IMO.
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I had the same issue twice and each time it was a cause. The first time it happened was when I mixed up the steam pipe and overflow hoses on the radiator neck. The car ran great all winter amazingly but once it got into the high 70's it would heat up quick. A simple leakdown test let me know I screwed up when I tried to pressurize the system and heard air in the overflow.
The second time this happened was because of a bad radiator. I had the EXACT same symptoms as before... I tried EVERYTHING and it would not run at a constant temp once it got warmer outside. I replace the radiator and have been good since then.
The second time this happened was because of a bad radiator. I had the EXACT same symptoms as before... I tried EVERYTHING and it would not run at a constant temp once it got warmer outside. I replace the radiator and have been good since then.
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I had the same issue twice and each time it was a cause. The first time it happened was when I mixed up the steam pipe and overflow hoses on the radiator neck. The car ran great all winter amazingly but once it got into the high 70's it would heat up quick. A simple leakdown test let me know I screwed up when I tried to pressurize the system and heard air in the overflow.
The second time this happened was because of a bad radiator. I had the EXACT same symptoms as before... I tried EVERYTHING and it would not run at a constant temp once it got warmer outside. I replace the radiator and have been good since then.
The second time this happened was because of a bad radiator. I had the EXACT same symptoms as before... I tried EVERYTHING and it would not run at a constant temp once it got warmer outside. I replace the radiator and have been good since then.
Im about to that option I think, its not even really hot outside and it runs pretty hot (hotter than Id like anyway). My last setup ran 170-190 all the time no matter with the AC on or not.
This is news to me...good info!! My last setup had the same water pump on it though. Id actually thought the electric moved more water.
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Think about it for just a second. How would it be possible to take rotation turn it to electricity and then back to rotation and get it to do MORE work with LESS HP drain than just using rotation to turn the pump??? Energy form changes are inherently inefficient.
The belief they move more water is VERY VERY common but it is also the definition of a perpetual motion machine.
They do move more water at idle but by cruise rpms and beyond fall behind the stocker. The mechanical can cavitate at HIGH rpms though too, only guys I trust to have found any real data on this say that is not till 6500rpms or so, don't spend much time up there even racing.
Keep in mind the electrics are free flow rated. As installed in the system the mechanical moves 66gpm at 48-4900rpms(engine), again that is as restricted by being installed in the system not freeflow.
The belief they move more water is VERY VERY common but it is also the definition of a perpetual motion machine.
They do move more water at idle but by cruise rpms and beyond fall behind the stocker. The mechanical can cavitate at HIGH rpms though too, only guys I trust to have found any real data on this say that is not till 6500rpms or so, don't spend much time up there even racing.
Keep in mind the electrics are free flow rated. As installed in the system the mechanical moves 66gpm at 48-4900rpms(engine), again that is as restricted by being installed in the system not freeflow.
#15
M6- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...60028/10002/-1
A4- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...62028/10002/-1
The one for the A4 has the built in tranny cooler
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I got it thru a local race shop here, but I have seen them in Jegs before, and i'm sure Summit carries them.
M6- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...60028/10002/-1
A4- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...62028/10002/-1
The one for the A4 has the built in tranny cooler
M6- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...60028/10002/-1
A4- http://www.jegs.com/i/Be+Cool+Radiat...62028/10002/-1
The one for the A4 has the built in tranny cooler
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Thats not cheap for sure, do you remember part numbers etc? Id prefer to look into something that fits in the stock location if I change it up.
I have checked for water pockets in the cooling system a few times but has always seemed normal (coolant coming out quickly after the bleed is opened). I dont run a steam pipe.
Im about to that option I think, its not even really hot outside and it runs pretty hot (hotter than Id like anyway). My last setup ran 170-190 all the time no matter with the AC on or not.
This is news to me...good info!! My last setup had the same water pump on it though. Id actually thought the electric moved more water.
I have checked for water pockets in the cooling system a few times but has always seemed normal (coolant coming out quickly after the bleed is opened). I dont run a steam pipe.
Im about to that option I think, its not even really hot outside and it runs pretty hot (hotter than Id like anyway). My last setup ran 170-190 all the time no matter with the AC on or not.
This is news to me...good info!! My last setup had the same water pump on it though. Id actually thought the electric moved more water.
#18
i have a 160 stat and have tuned my fans for 160 and 170 degrees and i have never seen it run hotter than 179 in florida heat.
EWP would help at idle especially since it delivers a consistant flow rate.
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Manual fan switch = best mod for hot weather. I live in Tx. and when I would go to the track in the summer my car would never sit lower than 210, then I put in a manual fan switch and it sits at 170-180. Now I have an E-WP b/c it's not a street car anymore really (only weekends and when it's cool out - no a/c) so it should sit cool in the staging lanes just like I like it.