What heads should i get.. ordering in the next three days. PLEASE HELP..
04-16-2009, 01:33 PM
#1
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What heads should i get.. ordering in the next three days. PLEASE HELP.. 95 t/a... heres my mods:
Fully Forged 355 Lt1, Comp Cams CC306 Cam, Comp R 7.2 Chromoly Pushrods, ISKY Adj. Guideplates, Comp Gold 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers, Manley Valves, Hell-Fire Piston Rings, Clevite 77 Bearings, ARP Main Studs, ARP Head Bolts, ARP Rod Bolts, Cloyes Dual Roller Timing Chain, CSI Electric Water Pump, Custom PCM 4 Less Tune, LT1 Edit Software, LT4 Knock Module, Throttle Body Bypass, MSD 6AL ignition, Accell Pro-Billet Optispark 2 Distributor, MSD Coil, Taylor Blue Racewire, Rapidfire Plugs, New 02 sensors, K&N Cone Filter, G2 Cold Air Intake, Power Products Polished 58mm Throttle Body, Vortech Polished Elbow, Air Foil, JETHOT Hooker Super-Comp Headers, 3" True Duals, Dual Twister Race Mufflers, Jennings Engineering Racing Viper T56, Fidenza Aluminum Flywheel, Spec Stage 3+ Clutch, Braided Steel Clutch Line, Strange 3:73 Gears, Moser 12, Black Powdercoated ZR1 Rims 17x9 Fronts W/ 275/40/17 Fuzion ZRi's, Rears 17x11 315/35/17 Nitto 555r Drag Radials, Energy Suspension Transmission Mount, Motor Mounts, Sway Bar Links, Sway Bar Brackets, Hotchkis Sway Bars, Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets.
Keeping it N/A
here are my choices:
1.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-L...Q5fAccessories
2.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AFR-0...Q5fAccessories
3.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Trick...Q5fAccessories
Im leaning towards the trickflows....
Fully Forged 355 Lt1, Comp Cams CC306 Cam, Comp R 7.2 Chromoly Pushrods, ISKY Adj. Guideplates, Comp Gold 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers, Manley Valves, Hell-Fire Piston Rings, Clevite 77 Bearings, ARP Main Studs, ARP Head Bolts, ARP Rod Bolts, Cloyes Dual Roller Timing Chain, CSI Electric Water Pump, Custom PCM 4 Less Tune, LT1 Edit Software, LT4 Knock Module, Throttle Body Bypass, MSD 6AL ignition, Accell Pro-Billet Optispark 2 Distributor, MSD Coil, Taylor Blue Racewire, Rapidfire Plugs, New 02 sensors, K&N Cone Filter, G2 Cold Air Intake, Power Products Polished 58mm Throttle Body, Vortech Polished Elbow, Air Foil, JETHOT Hooker Super-Comp Headers, 3" True Duals, Dual Twister Race Mufflers, Jennings Engineering Racing Viper T56, Fidenza Aluminum Flywheel, Spec Stage 3+ Clutch, Braided Steel Clutch Line, Strange 3:73 Gears, Moser 12, Black Powdercoated ZR1 Rims 17x9 Fronts W/ 275/40/17 Fuzion ZRi's, Rears 17x11 315/35/17 Nitto 555r Drag Radials, Energy Suspension Transmission Mount, Motor Mounts, Sway Bar Links, Sway Bar Brackets, Hotchkis Sway Bars, Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets.
Keeping it N/A
here are my choices:
1.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-L...Q5fAccessories
2.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AFR-0...Q5fAccessories
3.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Trick...Q5fAccessories
Im leaning towards the trickflows....
04-16-2009, 01:39 PM
#2
95 t/a... heres my mods:
Fully Forged 355 Lt1, Comp Cams CC306 Cam, Comp R 7.2 Chromoly Pushrods, ISKY Adj. Guideplates, Comp Gold 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers, Manley Valves, Hell-Fire Piston Rings, Clevite 77 Bearings, ARP Main Studs, ARP Head Bolts, ARP Rod Bolts, Cloyes Dual Roller Timing Chain, CSI Electric Water Pump, Custom PCM 4 Less Tune, LT1 Edit Software, LT4 Knock Module, Throttle Body Bypass, MSD 6AL ignition, Accell Pro-Billet Optispark 2 Distributor, MSD Coil, Taylor Blue Racewire, Rapidfire Plugs, New 02 sensors, K&N Cone Filter, G2 Cold Air Intake, Power Products Polished 58mm Throttle Body, Vortech Polished Elbow, Air Foil, JETHOT Hooker Super-Comp Headers, 3" True Duals, Dual Twister Race Mufflers, Jennings Engineering Racing Viper T56, Fidenza Aluminum Flywheel, Spec Stage 3+ Clutch, Braided Steel Clutch Line, Strange 3:73 Gears, Moser 12, Black Powdercoated ZR1 Rims 17x9 Fronts W/ 275/40/17 Fuzion ZRi's, Rears 17x11 315/35/17 Nitto 555r Drag Radials, Energy Suspension Transmission Mount, Motor Mounts, Sway Bar Links, Sway Bar Brackets, Hotchkis Sway Bars, Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets.
Keeping it N/A
here are my choices:
1.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-L...Q5fAccessories
2.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AFR-0...Q5fAccessories
3.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Trick...Q5fAccessories
Im leaning towards the trickflows....
Fully Forged 355 Lt1, Comp Cams CC306 Cam, Comp R 7.2 Chromoly Pushrods, ISKY Adj. Guideplates, Comp Gold 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers, Manley Valves, Hell-Fire Piston Rings, Clevite 77 Bearings, ARP Main Studs, ARP Head Bolts, ARP Rod Bolts, Cloyes Dual Roller Timing Chain, CSI Electric Water Pump, Custom PCM 4 Less Tune, LT1 Edit Software, LT4 Knock Module, Throttle Body Bypass, MSD 6AL ignition, Accell Pro-Billet Optispark 2 Distributor, MSD Coil, Taylor Blue Racewire, Rapidfire Plugs, New 02 sensors, K&N Cone Filter, G2 Cold Air Intake, Power Products Polished 58mm Throttle Body, Vortech Polished Elbow, Air Foil, JETHOT Hooker Super-Comp Headers, 3" True Duals, Dual Twister Race Mufflers, Jennings Engineering Racing Viper T56, Fidenza Aluminum Flywheel, Spec Stage 3+ Clutch, Braided Steel Clutch Line, Strange 3:73 Gears, Moser 12, Black Powdercoated ZR1 Rims 17x9 Fronts W/ 275/40/17 Fuzion ZRi's, Rears 17x11 315/35/17 Nitto 555r Drag Radials, Energy Suspension Transmission Mount, Motor Mounts, Sway Bar Links, Sway Bar Brackets, Hotchkis Sway Bars, Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets.
Keeping it N/A
here are my choices:
1.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-L...Q5fAccessories
2.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AFR-0...Q5fAccessories
3.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Trick...Q5fAccessories
Im leaning towards the trickflows....
04-16-2009, 02:01 PM
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AI or Llloyd Elliott.
Both are equally awesome!
***BTW, I'm giving him my recommendation, so people who feel like coming in here to start a debate which company is better need to go find something better to do with their lives*** lol just a quick note
Both are equally awesome!
***BTW, I'm giving him my recommendation, so people who feel like coming in here to start a debate which company is better need to go find something better to do with their lives*** lol just a quick note
04-16-2009, 02:08 PM
#5
I think an aftermarket casting head is not the right way to go with a 355. I don't know how much your block was decked if at all...but typically the head choices you gave are better with stroker motors. You won't need anything more than a stock casting head ported by either Lloyd Elliott or Advanced Induction. They can do plenty for you. Plus you can get the chambers down to size to make for better compression. I would stay away from the Dart's, TFS, and AFR's unless you plan on putting those on a 383 or something similar. The AFR's don't flow like you might think out of the box. But if you are set on buying one of the 3 you mentioned, I'd buy the Dart's personally. The price is not bad plus you have a good platform for if you decide to build a nastier car in the future. All this is IMO.
04-16-2009, 02:22 PM
#6
I think an aftermarket casting head is not the right way to go with a 355. I don't know how much your block was decked if at all...but typically the head choices you gave are better with stroker motors. You won't need anything more than a stock casting head ported by either Lloyd Elliott or Advanced Induction. They can do plenty for you. Plus you can get the chambers down to size to make for better compression. I would stay away from the Dart's, TFS, and AFR's unless you plan on putting those on a 383 or something similar. The AFR's don't flow like you might think out of the box. But if you are set on buying one of the 3 you mentioned, I'd buy the Dart's personally. The price is not bad plus you have a good platform for if you decide to build a nastier car in the future. All this is IMO.
04-16-2009, 06:02 PM
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They are all running far better numbers than stock, better times as compared to bone stock, and I haven't seen any threads saying DON'T GET AI or DON'T GET LE!!!
I've also talked to Lloyd Elliott numerous times on the phone about my future build and selection of cams and whatnot and he is a very nice guy and I originally called him late at night (past hours hoping to leave a msg) and he still answered and talked with me for 20 minutes about heads/cam. Good customer service
Also like how you forgot to read my line right below my quote about how people shouldn't start an argument about WHICH ONE is better...
04-17-2009, 01:36 AM
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ok ok... so are you saying i get aftermarket heads and THEN have them ported? or pick up a set of stockers and send them off to LE or AI and just build the heads or have them install the guideplates, springs, etc....????? So i would make more numbers off ported stock heads rather than getting aftermarkets??
04-17-2009, 04:15 AM
#10
ok ok... so are you saying i get aftermarket heads and THEN have them ported? or pick up a set of stockers and send them off to LE or AI and just build the heads or have them install the guideplates, springs, etc....????? So i would make more numbers off ported stock heads rather than getting aftermarkets??
04-17-2009, 12:57 PM
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I just finished going through much the same thing, choosing which heads to buy. I chose Dart LT1 180cc Pro1s and bought them.
I wasn't able to check the new TrickFlows that are supposed to my released soon. I couldn't find any specs on them.
The head and can swap is for my son's 96 LT1 Vette and we're primarily after torque; low and mid-range.
I considered all four of the options that your listed. Here's what I came up with in the comparisons and my decision making process.
1. AFRs are too expensive, and, for my application, made no more torque or HP than the Dart 180s. I used AFR's 180 cc specs and flow numbers (part # 0908) from their 2006 catalog that I have.
2. The Dart's were $500 cheaper.
3. The TrickFlows have chambers that are too large and, thus, reduced compression. Even though the Dart's have 58cc chambers (which are 3.6 ccs larger than the stock heads), a .026/.028 head gaskets gets that back.
4. From information sent me by a head porter, the stock LT1s can't be ported to flow as well as the out of the box Dart's without going to larger valves.
5. The aftermarket heads didn't require a core set of heads, so I could sell the stockers and recoup a little of the cost.
I have Engine Analyzer Pro simulation software (the $500 version) and ran over a hundred simulations using the specs and flow numbers of the aftermarket heads. I used flow numbers from various independent sites, such a GM High Tech Performance magazine's site, etc. Even though the flow numbers did differ slightly from one site to another, I averaged them so I could see if there was any REAL difference.
Considering power, price, availability, reputation of maker, quality of valve train parts used, actual difference among the various heads, the Dart's won out. They were delivered last week.
This is just the process I went through in making my decision.
Hope this helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
I wasn't able to check the new TrickFlows that are supposed to my released soon. I couldn't find any specs on them.
The head and can swap is for my son's 96 LT1 Vette and we're primarily after torque; low and mid-range.
I considered all four of the options that your listed. Here's what I came up with in the comparisons and my decision making process.
1. AFRs are too expensive, and, for my application, made no more torque or HP than the Dart 180s. I used AFR's 180 cc specs and flow numbers (part # 0908) from their 2006 catalog that I have.
2. The Dart's were $500 cheaper.
3. The TrickFlows have chambers that are too large and, thus, reduced compression. Even though the Dart's have 58cc chambers (which are 3.6 ccs larger than the stock heads), a .026/.028 head gaskets gets that back.
4. From information sent me by a head porter, the stock LT1s can't be ported to flow as well as the out of the box Dart's without going to larger valves.
5. The aftermarket heads didn't require a core set of heads, so I could sell the stockers and recoup a little of the cost.
I have Engine Analyzer Pro simulation software (the $500 version) and ran over a hundred simulations using the specs and flow numbers of the aftermarket heads. I used flow numbers from various independent sites, such a GM High Tech Performance magazine's site, etc. Even though the flow numbers did differ slightly from one site to another, I averaged them so I could see if there was any REAL difference.
Considering power, price, availability, reputation of maker, quality of valve train parts used, actual difference among the various heads, the Dart's won out. They were delivered last week.
This is just the process I went through in making my decision.
Hope this helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
04-17-2009, 01:20 PM
#13
I just finished going through much the same thing, choosing which heads to buy. I chose Dart LT1 180cc Pro1s and bought them.
I wasn't able to check the new TrickFlows that are supposed to my released soon. I couldn't find any specs on them.
The head and can swap is for my son's 96 LT1 Vette and we're primarily after torque; low and mid-range.
I considered all four of the options that your listed. Here's what I came up with in the comparisons and my decision making process.
1. AFRs are too expensive, and, for my application, made no more torque or HP than the Dart 180s. I used AFR's 180 cc specs and flow numbers (part # 0908) from their 2006 catalog that I have.
2. The Dart's were $500 cheaper.
3. The TrickFlows have chambers that are too large and, thus, reduced compression. Even though the Dart's have 58cc chambers (which are 3.6 ccs larger than the stock heads), a .026/.028 head gaskets gets that back.
4. From information sent me by a head porter, the stock LT1s can't be ported to flow as well as the out of the box Dart's without going to larger valves.
5. The aftermarket heads didn't require a core set of heads, so I could sell the stockers and recoup a little of the cost.
I have Engine Analyzer Pro simulation software (the $500 version) and ran over a hundred simulations using the specs and flow numbers of the aftermarket heads. I used flow numbers from various independent sites, such a GM High Tech Performance magazine's site, etc. Even though the flow numbers did differ slightly from one site to another, I averaged them so I could see if there was any REAL difference.
Considering power, price, availability, reputation of maker, quality of valve train parts used, actual difference among the various heads, the Dart's won out. They were delivered last week.
This is just the process I went through in making my decision.
Hope this helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
I wasn't able to check the new TrickFlows that are supposed to my released soon. I couldn't find any specs on them.
The head and can swap is for my son's 96 LT1 Vette and we're primarily after torque; low and mid-range.
I considered all four of the options that your listed. Here's what I came up with in the comparisons and my decision making process.
1. AFRs are too expensive, and, for my application, made no more torque or HP than the Dart 180s. I used AFR's 180 cc specs and flow numbers (part # 0908) from their 2006 catalog that I have.
2. The Dart's were $500 cheaper.
3. The TrickFlows have chambers that are too large and, thus, reduced compression. Even though the Dart's have 58cc chambers (which are 3.6 ccs larger than the stock heads), a .026/.028 head gaskets gets that back.
4. From information sent me by a head porter, the stock LT1s can't be ported to flow as well as the out of the box Dart's without going to larger valves.
5. The aftermarket heads didn't require a core set of heads, so I could sell the stockers and recoup a little of the cost.
I have Engine Analyzer Pro simulation software (the $500 version) and ran over a hundred simulations using the specs and flow numbers of the aftermarket heads. I used flow numbers from various independent sites, such a GM High Tech Performance magazine's site, etc. Even though the flow numbers did differ slightly from one site to another, I averaged them so I could see if there was any REAL difference.
Considering power, price, availability, reputation of maker, quality of valve train parts used, actual difference among the various heads, the Dart's won out. They were delivered last week.
This is just the process I went through in making my decision.
Hope this helps.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
04-17-2009, 01:37 PM
#15
04-17-2009, 05:26 PM
#17
No I was just saying that it seems like a set of ported stock heads would be the better way for this guy to go. And I specifically said that was my opinion. That's what I would do and that's the reason my 355 has stock casting heads...with 50cc chambers to get some good compression. You can't dream about going that low on aftermarket heads.
