head and cam
#1
head and cam
whats a good head and cam combo its a 95 formula auto it will have a stall dont want to rev it past 6100 unless its safe to do so have about 4000 dollars to work with but some of tht will go to engine rebuild and basic bolt ons like headers and such all the work will be free so all the money is just the cost of parts labor is not an issue
#4
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A "good head and cam combo" will depend on your intended use of the car. What would be "good" for a daily driver probably won't be for a race car.
The cubic inch displacement is a big factor too. So I suggest you sit down and come up with a plan, a plan for how you intend to use the car and what your goals are.
Jake
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The cubic inch displacement is a big factor too. So I suggest you sit down and come up with a plan, a plan for how you intend to use the car and what your goals are.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
#7
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A "good head and cam combo" will depend on your intended use of the car. What would be "good" for a daily driver probably won't be for a race car.
The cubic inch displacement is a big factor too. So I suggest you sit down and come up with a plan, a plan for how you intend to use the car and what your goals are.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
The cubic inch displacement is a big factor too. So I suggest you sit down and come up with a plan, a plan for how you intend to use the car and what your goals are.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Except that the AI ported stockers have proven time and again to be great for everything from a 350ci daily driver too capable of 9 second NA 383ci car. Granted if aiming for 9s NA I think their Trickflows are a better choice but there are VERY few cars doing that and I think it very clear that is not where thos poster is heading.
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#8
it will be daily driven and at my track lt1s dont run as good as other places they run high 14's all day my fastest is a 14.8 and with heads and cam i want it to be in the 12's emmissions are not a problem i mean i want a beefed up street car tht i can take to the track if i want and whip stock and lightly modded ls1's I want it to have between 375 and 425 RWHP Yall just give me yalls opinion on it
Last edited by lt1formula275; 04-25-2009 at 09:52 AM.
#9
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By the time you are done with the rest of the valvetrain and gaskets and all you can pretty much plan on spending $3000 on a topend. I know that sounds like a lot after looking at a website and seeing $15-2000 but like I said the rest of the valvetrain and gaskets and such add up. If you spend less fine but do not PLAN on spending less or you could put yourself in a tight spot.
#10
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If you're looking for driveability more cubic inches is better. My car drives great and with the bugs worked out of the tune and the cutout open I expect between 460-470whp on a car that could be daily driven if need be.
#14
yea thts why im working a plan out right now before i start buying stuff and the budget will go higher over time i dont mind waiting a little while for it to be done right
#15
if i got the money i like AI heads the 190cc heads are probably good enough is any work required to the bottem end to use the heads like i dont have to change the pistons do i
#16
You'll eat up most of the budget and have a little left for a few bolt-ons or
to get a head-start on the savings for the next round of mods.
I've said it before and I'll say it again.
H/C is a gateway drug.
Yes, you can run an H/C combo on a stock bottom end as long as it holds compression (IE: leak-down test)
Keep cam duration below 230/236 and RPM under 6500 if you want it to perform and last.
Overcamming is extremely common for first timers. (an expensive lesson to learn the hard way)
Both LE and AI provide an excellent selection of cams to match the portwork and application.
#19
alright what cam do u suggest going with AI 190cc heads its gone be a dd i want around 375 to 400 RWHP if i can get it i will have more mods then just H/C if i got the money ill have the intake ported as well