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LT1-LT4 Modifications
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:07 PM   #1
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Default whats required with lt4 hot cam kit

i have a 94 t/a gt with lt1 A4. i was looking into the lt4 hot cam kit Click the image to open in full size. and was also going to get the rebuild kit from summit Click the image to open in full size.what else will i need if i do the hot cam kit what about timing chain tune and stall etc., are these things necessary
thanks and besides exhaust and intake what are other things that i will need for the rebuild
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:16 PM   #2
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you might wanna ditch those springs and get some comp cams 918 beehives. a lot stronger than the lt4 ones, added insurance. you might wanna get a tune, i forget the difference in specs but the lt4 cam is only a little bit bigger than the stock one i think. if your timing chain is real loose you might wanna go ahead and replace it with a gm lt1 heavy duty chain, can be had for like 250 or so. a bigger stall would help, not too much though - i dont know a lot about stalls though, so cant recommend how big. 2200 or so maybe? its a baby cam so you dont need a huge one.

youre off to a good start and good luck with your project!
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:09 AM   #3
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i had a 3600 stall on mine when it was still stock and mine ran great. Its all up to you really as far as future plans. might as well get the size that will work for your future plans that way you dont have to do it twice. you def want to change the timing chain and gears size you are doing a rebuild. I just pulled mine off at 178xxx miles and it had so much slack in it it wasnt even funny. As far as a tune goes, a tune will always help you out even if the engine was stock. GM has to down tune the cars for emmisions and economic reasons. So tuning it will help out with the over all performance of the car and you also said you were going to put in a cam so doing this will def help out
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:25 AM   #4
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I loved the LT4 kit years ago. IMO bag that whole kit and go with a LE's version of the Hot Cam and either the Pac 1218 springs or the Comp 26918-16. Crane also makes a really nice spring set with all the go together items. As far as the rockers go look into the Comp 1305-16 with the Trickflow 30400623-8 and Trickflow pushrods. Measure for the correct length before you buy. Replace the OEM timing chain as well #10128485 camshaft sprocket #10128349 and crankshaft sprocket #10128346. A new Delco opti from thepartsladi on ebay is a good idea as well. As far as a tune and stall go, a mail order tune would be just fine although I prefer an actual dyno tune myself. You will also pick up some power from a tune. You would not be required to run a higher stall with a Hot Cam weather it's the actual GM version or Lloyds. I would suggest some 3.73 gears for sure. What headers are you running? Please tell me you have some. If not, get them before going with a cam.

How many miles on the bottom end? What makes you want to rebuild?

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Old 05-01-2009, 03:38 AM   #5
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1. Much better choices then the LT4 hotcam.
http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html

2. Check out his head/cam packages. He even ports intakes...

3. Why rebuild? LT1s can hit 200k easy, possibly 300k if taken care of with no rebuild needed. If you really have your heart set on it and want to rebuild spend the extra money and at LEAST do a 355 rebuild. Depending on how serious you want to get you could do a 383 as well.
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:40 AM   #6
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1. Much better choices then the LT4 hotcam.
http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html

2. Check out his head/cam packages. He even ports intakes...

3. Why rebuild? LT1s can hit 200k easy, possibly 300k if taken care of with no rebuild needed. If you really have your heart set on it and want to rebuild spend the extra money and at LEAST do a 355 rebuild. Depending on how serious you want to get you could do a 383 as well.
^^^Pretty much everything I was going to say.
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:57 PM   #7
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the motor just hit 124,xxx miles and it is completely stock besides the cut out, the rear main is leaking, i am not looking to run 11s or anything like that i just want it to sound really good and have that nice cam lobe to it. i am only 18 and dont really have alot of money right now
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Old 05-01-2009, 06:59 PM   #8
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the motor just hit 124,xxx miles and it is completely stock besides the cut out, the rear main is leaking, i am not looking to run 11s or anything like that i just want it to sound really good and have that nice cam lobe to it. i am only 18 and dont really have alot of money right now
Call up Lloyd and he can get a cam out to you. You can buy some rr's, springs, and pushrods from Summit.

124k is not that high. I'd buy a gasket set and change out all the seals. Do a compression check and leak down test to see if your motor is healthy. It it all checks out, cam the bitch.

Oh...your stock, I'd consider buying LT headers and ORY pipe to start the mod process. Then get a cam.
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:43 PM   #9
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Call up Lloyd and he can get a cam out to you. You can buy some rr's, springs, and pushrods from Summit.

124k is not that high. I'd buy a gasket set and change out all the seals. Do a compression check and leak down test to see if your motor is healthy. It it all checks out, cam the bitch.

Oh...your stock, I'd consider buying LT headers and ORY pipe to start the mod process. Then get a cam.
thanks alot that helps and lot but what is a leak down test.
if everything seems to be strong you would just get a cam and some minor things like springs rr's and pushrods and then get the whole rebuild gasket kit which also comes with new pistons. and i know that the exhaust and intake should be a first but just wanted to get everyones input on the cam. i still need to pass emisions but still wanna hear the sound of the cam does anyone have an idea of what size i should go probably 223 right
thanks

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Old 05-01-2009, 10:02 PM   #10
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and what do you guys think about the pacesetter mid tubes
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:58 PM   #11
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and what do you guys think about the pacesetter mid tubes
If you don't have to pass emissions/smog testing then go with the Pacesetter emission friendly LT's. They will compliment the cam set up much nicer and give you much better performance.
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:24 PM   #12
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i do have to pass emissions so i have to keep the cat
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:30 PM   #13
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i do have to pass emissions so i have to keep the cat
That's fine. You can run the Pacesetter LT's into a Y-pipe and mount the cat behind that. LT's for the win bro! Just be sure to get the ones with the air/egr hook up.
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:49 AM   #14
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whats a good and cheap y pipe to get with the pacesetters and how much will it move the cat so i will just have to shorten the cat back pipe to make it work right
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:52 AM   #15
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http://www.randdspeed.com/index.php?...roducts_id=214

http://www.randdspeed.com/index.php?...roducts_id=216

All I did was mount mine right after the Y-pipe when I had it emissions friendly. You might have to cut a little off behind the cat to the catback. No big deal. Any exhaust shop can do it for you.
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Old 05-02-2009, 11:08 AM   #16
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whats a good and cheap y pipe to get with the pacesetters and how much will it move the cat so i will just have to shorten the cat back pipe to make it work right
Just go with the pacesetter y pipe... is probably the cheapest antways and it is made for their headers.....and I agree with the other guys. Go bolt on before cam, iand idk if you will be going in the 11's on a hotcam but that's just from my personal experience.... maybe with some spray but hey you might(I am running @ 5000 above sea level and average 7500 density altitude). I would go with a 3600 stall but thatss just me too though... and anagin the other guys really hit the nail on the head.... LE(Lloyd elliots) & AI (advanced induction) both makes a VERY good comparible cam to the hotcam but both are a little better IMO... but my best advice to you is to go with the boltons first(headers, gears, stall)0 but also remeber to match the stall to the gears... so I recommendcalling up say vigalante or someone like that and talk to them about a stall and they can help you match up the right gears for it....
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Old 05-02-2009, 11:17 AM   #17
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Just go with the pacesetter y pipe... is probably the cheapest antways and it is made for their headers.....and I agree with the other guys. Go bolt on before cam, iand idk if you will be going in the 11's on a hotcam but that's just from my personal experience.... maybe with some spray but hey you might(I am running @ 5000 above sea level and average 7500 density altitude). I would go with a 3600 stall but thatss just me too though... and anagin the other guys really hit the nail on the head.... LE(Lloyd elliots) & AI (advanced induction) both makes a VERY good comparible cam to the hotcam but both are a little better IMO... but my best advice to you is to go with the boltons first(headers, gears, stall)0 but also remeber to match the stall to the gears... so I recommendcalling up say vigalante or someone like that and talk to them about a stall and they can help you match up the right gears for it....
i didnt say i wanted to run 11's i was just saying i really dont care what it runs i just want it to have that nasty cam sound, but thanks for the tips
and with the lts and the y pipe will it move it any from side to side or just back farther
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Old 05-02-2009, 11:35 AM   #19
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Check this LT4 heads/cam out. Bad ***...http://videos.streetfire.net/video/H...shot_46146.htm
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:51 PM   #20
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that is what i would love mine to sound like
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:51 PM
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