Draglites? Come In!!!
05-01-2009, 07:11 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Draglites? Come In!!! I really want to get a set of draglites for the fronts and backs, prob 15x10's and 15x4 or 15x5's, havent decided yet. Heres my question, will i have to do any work to fit draglites on my car with a 275 or 285 tire in the back, and what about up front? and is there a setup of draglites i wont have to do any work with, ill prob end up getting the jegs draglite knockoffs cause there alot cheaper but whatever, thanks guys.
05-01-2009, 07:57 PM
#5
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SFL
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol.. u need 3/8th spacers up front.. no grinding required. i guess I got lucky? They fit perfectly. Factory wheel studs work fine. Some tracks might not let you run with them though - depends on how picky tech is. But as for the grinding, i didn't have to. I did though for the sake of it - and that took all of 2min to do.
05-01-2009, 08:09 PM
#6
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=576054
What experience is that? What type of 15" aluminum wheels can you get for a 4th gen. f-body where you don't have to grind on the calipers? In your experience, what carnage may ensue if the calipers have to be ground down?
Did you realize, in your experience, it is only a partial of the fins which need to be ground down?
What experience is that? What type of 15" aluminum wheels can you get for a 4th gen. f-body where you don't have to grind on the calipers? In your experience, what carnage may ensue if the calipers have to be ground down?
Did you realize, in your experience, it is only a partial of the fins which need to be ground down?
Last edited by SS RRR; 05-01-2009 at 08:16 PM.
05-01-2009, 08:13 PM
#7
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SFL
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What experience is that? What type of 15" aluminum wheels can you get for a 4th gen. f-body where you don't have to grind on the calipers? In your experience, what carnage may ensue if the calipers have to be ground down?
Did you realize, in your experience, it is only a partial of the fins which need to be ground down?
Did you realize, in your experience, it is only a partial of the fins which need to be ground down?
Trending Topics
05-01-2009, 08:39 PM
#10
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SFL
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the Billet Specialties, yes.. excellent fit. A buddy of mine had them. I would consider them but they're like $1,200 for the wheels alone.. not in the market at the moment but definately worth it
05-01-2009, 08:40 PM
#11
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SFL
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah front spacers (I got them at a local speed shop but they are a Mr. Gasket brand spacer - I'm sure you can find them anywhere online). I am running 15x8 in the rear with a 275/50/15 drag radial
05-01-2009, 08:57 PM
#12
if your running welds 15" wheels you will need to grind the rear calipers a bit which will seriously take no more than 10 minutes to...then the front all you need is a spacer 3/16" i believe....and thats it or you can buy the 16" weld and fitment issues at all
05-01-2009, 09:29 PM
#14
I have the Jegs version, 15x4 on the front and 15x8 on the back. I didnt have to use spacers or grind on the front, and only had to grind the backs because the wheel weight was hitting the edge of the caliper. Id say go with the jegs to save your money. Im only a bolton car so I went with an 8" rim for the back, 275/50
05-01-2009, 09:45 PM
#15
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
**** a bunch of that. They better be made out of titanium and **** Tiffany cufflinks for that price. A little fin grinding to save several hundred dollars is most definitely worth it.
05-02-2009, 12:22 AM
#18
I run draglites 15x10 and 15x3 1/2 on my 94 camaro. All it needed was a little grinding on both front and rear calipers. No spacers needed. Just grind and test fit and turn the wheels...and repeat as necessary untill there is no contact. Good luck!
05-02-2009, 11:55 AM
#19
here's a guide from Fred (Injuneer) on another site
Originally Posted by Injuneer
WELD PRO-STARS AND DRAGLITES FOR 4TH GENS
Authors: Fred/Injuneer; Romoranger
LT1 4TH GENS
For drag applications, the Weld Pro-Star and Draglite wheels offer a good balance of light weight and reasonable cost. But they will not bolt directly on the 93-97 4th Gen F-Bodies - SEE BOTTOM OF PAGE FOR 98-02 INFO (covers LS1 front brakes).
FRONT:
No matter what width or offset you get, the Welds will need a 5/16” spacer. Without the spacer, the front wheels will hit in two places:
1. The spokes of the center disc will hit the spring clips that hold the brake pads in the calipers. It may appear you have some clearance, if your pads are worn, but with any decent amount of pad material, the spring clips will hit the center disc of the wheels.
2. The point where the center disc of the wheel “rolls over” to form the rim will rub on the big horizontal bar on the steering knuckle. This bar is used to support the caliper and the brake pads. While it may appear you can grind the pointy end of the big horizontal bar down, you have to consider how much life is left on your brake pads. New brake pads will move the caliper/pad out near the end of the horizontal bar.
NHRA rules require that if you use a spacer, the spacer must be hub-centric or lug-centric. That means the spacer must fit tight to either the studs or the hub, so that it is held perfectly centered, and can not move. This technically rules out the cheap spacers you can buy in your local auto parts store, that typically have five long slotted holes, so that they will fit a wide variety of bolt circle dimensions, not just the 4.75" bolt circle of the F-Body.
The use of a 5/16” spacer will move the center disc of the wheel outwards, away from the interference points. But now you will not have enough of the “shank” style Weld wheel lugs engaging the wheel studs. Under NHRA tech, the hex portion of the lug must engage the threads of the stud by at least 12mm. The stud does not have to come past the end of the lug opening, it just needs to have at least 12mm (for 12mm studs, ½” for ½” studs) thread engagement in the hex portion of the lug.
There are several sources for longer 12mm studs, with the correct 0.509” knurl. Lingenfelter, GM Performance Parts and ARP make them.
I used the 2.67" studs available from Lingenfelter. The problem is they have more than 1/2" of unthreaded length in addition to the 2.67" of threads/knurl. The theory is the unthreaded length help you get the wheels on the studs easier. Problem is they stick way out if you ever try and put your street wheels on. If you could get a 2.75" stud, with less unthreaded length, it would be perfect, but I don't know if they are available. Check with GM Performance Parts or ARP.
Note that once you install the longer wheel studs, the use of stock wheel lugs for street wheels will become a problem, since the studs will be way too long for closed end lugs. You will need to figure a way to swap your stock street wheels back on.
For the front, typical TRACK ONLY applications will use a 15x3-1/2” wheel, with a 1.75” backspace. Note that the 3-1/2” wide wheels are clearly marked on the face that they are for track use only. They are not designed to handle the cornering loads of a 3,600# car on the street.
You can opt for a 15x6” wheel to get a “sort of” skinny look for the front, and legal for street use. Backspace should be about 4.5” for a 15x6” wheel, and I’m not sure it they even make that backspace.
REAR:
In the back, you will want to use either:
-15x8” 5.5” backspace
-15x10” 7.5” backspace
The 8” wide wheels are good for most 10.5” wide slicks, the 10” wide wheels are better for 11.5” and larger slicks.
Once again, you will find an interference. The point where the center disc of the wheel rolls over to become the rim will hit the cooling fins on the brake caliper. These fins must be ground down flush with the body of the caliper. As long as you don’t start to grind into the body of the caliper, you should not weaken it. Only the portion of the fins that wraps around the corner of the caliper, where the fins transition from horizontal to vertical, need to be ground down.
The stock wheel studs are long enough for the back, as long as you don’t try to add a spacer (not recommended due to the high loads on drag wheels).
Weld Pro-Stars and DragLites require a special lug nut. It is Weld part # 601-1422. The tech description is "X-tra long mag shank, 1.380 shank length x 0.687" diameter. And of course to fit your F-Body they must be 12mm thread with a 1.5mm thread pitch, right-hand, and include a washer. The washer will be marked to indicate which side must be postioned against the wheel. Never mount the lugs without the washer, facing the correct direction.
Here are some pictures:
NOTE: The link to the last pictures is currently "down". I am doing my best to move these pictures to another server.
Rear caliper grinding:
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP04016a.jpg
15x10 7.5” BS, with 28x10.5-15W ET Drags:
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03453a.jpg
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03466.jpg
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03621a.jpg
15x3.5” 1.75” BS, with Moroso DS-2 26x4.5-15 tires:
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...a/DCP04336.jpg
LUGS
You need different lug nuts for the Welds. You can not use the stock conical seat lugs. The weld part # and description:
Part # 601-1422
X-TRA LONG MAG SHANK
1.380" Shank Length X .687 Diameter
12MM x 1.5 RH Open End Nuts with Centered Washers
Authors: Fred/Injuneer; Romoranger
LT1 4TH GENS
For drag applications, the Weld Pro-Star and Draglite wheels offer a good balance of light weight and reasonable cost. But they will not bolt directly on the 93-97 4th Gen F-Bodies - SEE BOTTOM OF PAGE FOR 98-02 INFO (covers LS1 front brakes).
FRONT:
No matter what width or offset you get, the Welds will need a 5/16” spacer. Without the spacer, the front wheels will hit in two places:
1. The spokes of the center disc will hit the spring clips that hold the brake pads in the calipers. It may appear you have some clearance, if your pads are worn, but with any decent amount of pad material, the spring clips will hit the center disc of the wheels.
2. The point where the center disc of the wheel “rolls over” to form the rim will rub on the big horizontal bar on the steering knuckle. This bar is used to support the caliper and the brake pads. While it may appear you can grind the pointy end of the big horizontal bar down, you have to consider how much life is left on your brake pads. New brake pads will move the caliper/pad out near the end of the horizontal bar.
NHRA rules require that if you use a spacer, the spacer must be hub-centric or lug-centric. That means the spacer must fit tight to either the studs or the hub, so that it is held perfectly centered, and can not move. This technically rules out the cheap spacers you can buy in your local auto parts store, that typically have five long slotted holes, so that they will fit a wide variety of bolt circle dimensions, not just the 4.75" bolt circle of the F-Body.
The use of a 5/16” spacer will move the center disc of the wheel outwards, away from the interference points. But now you will not have enough of the “shank” style Weld wheel lugs engaging the wheel studs. Under NHRA tech, the hex portion of the lug must engage the threads of the stud by at least 12mm. The stud does not have to come past the end of the lug opening, it just needs to have at least 12mm (for 12mm studs, ½” for ½” studs) thread engagement in the hex portion of the lug.
There are several sources for longer 12mm studs, with the correct 0.509” knurl. Lingenfelter, GM Performance Parts and ARP make them.
I used the 2.67" studs available from Lingenfelter. The problem is they have more than 1/2" of unthreaded length in addition to the 2.67" of threads/knurl. The theory is the unthreaded length help you get the wheels on the studs easier. Problem is they stick way out if you ever try and put your street wheels on. If you could get a 2.75" stud, with less unthreaded length, it would be perfect, but I don't know if they are available. Check with GM Performance Parts or ARP.
Note that once you install the longer wheel studs, the use of stock wheel lugs for street wheels will become a problem, since the studs will be way too long for closed end lugs. You will need to figure a way to swap your stock street wheels back on.
For the front, typical TRACK ONLY applications will use a 15x3-1/2” wheel, with a 1.75” backspace. Note that the 3-1/2” wide wheels are clearly marked on the face that they are for track use only. They are not designed to handle the cornering loads of a 3,600# car on the street.
You can opt for a 15x6” wheel to get a “sort of” skinny look for the front, and legal for street use. Backspace should be about 4.5” for a 15x6” wheel, and I’m not sure it they even make that backspace.
REAR:
In the back, you will want to use either:
-15x8” 5.5” backspace
-15x10” 7.5” backspace
The 8” wide wheels are good for most 10.5” wide slicks, the 10” wide wheels are better for 11.5” and larger slicks.
Once again, you will find an interference. The point where the center disc of the wheel rolls over to become the rim will hit the cooling fins on the brake caliper. These fins must be ground down flush with the body of the caliper. As long as you don’t start to grind into the body of the caliper, you should not weaken it. Only the portion of the fins that wraps around the corner of the caliper, where the fins transition from horizontal to vertical, need to be ground down.
The stock wheel studs are long enough for the back, as long as you don’t try to add a spacer (not recommended due to the high loads on drag wheels).
Weld Pro-Stars and DragLites require a special lug nut. It is Weld part # 601-1422. The tech description is "X-tra long mag shank, 1.380 shank length x 0.687" diameter. And of course to fit your F-Body they must be 12mm thread with a 1.5mm thread pitch, right-hand, and include a washer. The washer will be marked to indicate which side must be postioned against the wheel. Never mount the lugs without the washer, facing the correct direction.
Here are some pictures:
NOTE: The link to the last pictures is currently "down". I am doing my best to move these pictures to another server.
Rear caliper grinding:
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP04016a.jpg
15x10 7.5” BS, with 28x10.5-15W ET Drags:
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03453a.jpg
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03466.jpg
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03621a.jpg
15x3.5” 1.75” BS, with Moroso DS-2 26x4.5-15 tires:
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...a/DCP04336.jpg
LUGS
You need different lug nuts for the Welds. You can not use the stock conical seat lugs. The weld part # and description:
Part # 601-1422
X-TRA LONG MAG SHANK
1.380" Shank Length X .687 Diameter
12MM x 1.5 RH Open End Nuts with Centered Washers
05-02-2009, 02:18 PM
#20
Took all of 3-4 minutes with a cheap harbor-freight grinder to clearance the rear calipers. Make sure you replace the front studs with longer ones by ARP. You will not pass tech inspection at any good track with the stock studs . You are also supposed to run a concentric spacer, but they rarely check that. Any 3/8" spacer will work in the front and you won't need to do any grinding on the front at all. The universal spacers will work fine but they are not NHRA/IHRA legal.