Lt1 arp head studs
05-22-2009, 02:42 AM
#1
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Lt1 arp head studs how exactly do you guys lock them down completely...do you use loctite or thread sealer???whats the torque specs on the studs??? and what is the tightening sequence and torque specs of the nuts for the studs? i have a set that i got with the heads but no instructions...
thanks guys
thanks guys
05-22-2009, 07:14 AM
#2
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The nut tightening sequence should be the same as using bolts. A lot of people have a terrible time sealing studs, so I suggest you search for what works best. Seems like more than half of the people that use them end up having leaks and redoing them or going back to bolts.
05-22-2009, 07:33 AM
#3
Studs Unless specs have change you do not or did not torque the studs, Actually when I did studs on my LT1 years ago the directions said to only finger tight. When you start torquing the nuts you will see the stud tighten up also. I have never had any leaks but I use aircraft grade sealer...
05-22-2009, 08:09 AM
#5
Finger tight like moe horsepower said, than follow oe tightening sequence,I used blue loctite the first time and they did leak a little bit, so Im using high temp liquid thread sealant this time, here's a pic, you can see the white sealant on the bottom of the studs where they attach to the block
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05-23-2009, 08:34 AM
#7
i think one of the main problems people have with leaking studs is the finger tight part. that assumes your holes are perfectly chased. when i installed mine the first time i noticed that some studs didnt seat all the way. the shoulder has to seat against the block. the arp instructions list "finger tight" torque but say no more than i think 10ft-lbs. mine have never seeped or leaked coolant and i just used regular liquid teflon thread sealer.
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05-24-2009, 12:26 AM
#8
yea some threads on mine wouldn't let me finger tighten them down, so I torqued em all to 10 ft lbs. I used copper silicone for mine, a buddy had good results. My motor hasn't run yet, but the electric water pump has some run time and I don't have any leakage so far. I torqued the nuts down to 75 ft lbs using 10-30 oil as the lubricant. Also using a good stop-leak when you initially fill the radiator is a good preventative measure. I used the gm stuff, I think its like 6 vegetable based tablets.
05-24-2009, 12:29 AM
#9
another thing, whatever sealer you use, make sure there's no residue left on the deck of the block that will cause head gasket issues. I used alcohol and brake cleaner and a good minute on each stud with a terry cloth to get rid of excess that could seep under the head gasket.
05-26-2009, 04:35 PM
#12
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i run my studs down finger tight, and back them off a half turn. always used gm teflon thread sealer. works like a charm 
never had a leak on anything ive studded. main deal using studs, make sure the deck is flat and the heads are flat. for some odd reason, bolts seem to mask slight imperfections better than studs.
never had a leak on anything ive studded. main deal using studs, make sure the deck is flat and the heads are flat. for some odd reason, bolts seem to mask slight imperfections better than studs. 
