Can I even run LT's?
05-27-2009, 04:37 PM
#1
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Can I even run LT's? The next mod I'm considering is a set of pacesetter ceramic coated long tubes. However, with my car being as low as it is, I'm questioning if I can even run them without bottoming them out. I have no trouble now getting around on back roads with the exhaust the way it is. And as you can probably see, I live out in the middle of nowhere and the roads can get pretty bumpy back here.
So....do you guys think I'd be able to run a set of these longtubes with an off road ypipe and be okay? or should I consider something else? Thanks.
So....do you guys think I'd be able to run a set of these longtubes with an off road ypipe and be okay? or should I consider something else? Thanks.
Last edited by zdc590; 05-27-2009 at 04:52 PM.
05-27-2009, 05:03 PM
#4
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They can honestly get pretty damn bad, I've always wanted to take a picture of the roads around here and post it up for you guys. If I really wanted to I'm sure I could catch air going anything over 45 on some roads.
05-27-2009, 05:21 PM
#5
It's hard to say...you will probably be ok ( just don't go putting cut outs on 
seen too many guys do it with lowered cars and they hit ground ) My LPP long tubes tucked up really tight w/ the Eibach Pro Kit. I have a cut out as well which is the lowest point and that sits about 2 1/2 -3 inches from the ground. Worst case you jack the car back up
seen too many guys do it with lowered cars and they hit ground ) My LPP long tubes tucked up really tight w/ the Eibach Pro Kit. I have a cut out as well which is the lowest point and that sits about 2 1/2 -3 inches from the ground. Worst case you jack the car back up
05-27-2009, 05:52 PM
#6
From looking at those pictures, I am lower than you are. I have PS LT headers. They tuck up pretty nicely but being as low as I am I still have to avoid speed bumps and dips whenever I can. I occasionally see sparks out the back if I hit an unexpected dip on the freeway at night.
05-27-2009, 06:11 PM
#7
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Lol yeah I'm not wanting to see any sparks. Based on what you guys said and a little bit of searching I guess they actually tuck up against the car pretty good. Looks like ill be getting them within a few weeks. With LT's and the ORY is it a safe bet to get around 15-20 rwhp?
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05-27-2009, 06:17 PM
#8
Lol yeah I'm not wanting to see any sparks. Based on what you guys said and a little bit of searching I guess they actually tuck up against the car pretty good. Looks like ill be getting them within a few weeks. With LT's and the ORY is it a safe bet to get around 15-20 rwhp?
I see that you have an adj PHB, that's good, being that low you should also get adj LCA's and LCA relocation brackets as well. Not to mention adj TA. It get's expensive to get your suspension geometry in check...
05-27-2009, 07:02 PM
#10
Hey:
If I was you I would ditch the Eldebrock PHB, I have seen them break at the welds and come apart in bits, on lowered track cars on road circuits. And it sounds like you test your suspension as much if not more on your roads. I don't know of anyone anymore who'd recommend one. Also don't buy an Edelbroch Torque Arm as they break as well.
Also I would buy Sub Frame Conns 1st as they are pretty important on a lowered car.
My car is road track low with gfx, and kooks and LPPs are the only ones to give me the clearence to drive on the street. My cats are my lowest point at 2".
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
If I was you I would ditch the Eldebrock PHB, I have seen them break at the welds and come apart in bits, on lowered track cars on road circuits. And it sounds like you test your suspension as much if not more on your roads. I don't know of anyone anymore who'd recommend one. Also don't buy an Edelbroch Torque Arm as they break as well.
Also I would buy Sub Frame Conns 1st as they are pretty important on a lowered car.
My car is road track low with gfx, and kooks and LPPs are the only ones to give me the clearence to drive on the street. My cats are my lowest point at 2".
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; 05-27-2009 at 07:15 PM.
05-27-2009, 07:56 PM
#12
TECH Resident
Pacesetter or Kooks LTs will usually tuck up so your exhaust ends up no lower than the stock cat, so you'll probably be fine.
Better idea yet, just avoid any suspension made by Edelbrock in the first place. It definitely doesn't seem to be there forte.
Hey:
If I was you I would ditch the Eldebrock PHB, I have seen them break at the welds and come apart in bits, on lowered track cars on road circuits. And it sounds like you test your suspension as much if not more on your roads. I don't know of anyone anymore who'd recommend one. Also don't buy an Edelbroch Torque Arm as they break as well.
Also I would buy Sub Frame Conns 1st as they are pretty important on a lowered car.
My car is road track low with gfx, and kooks and LPPs are the only ones to give me the clearence to drive on the street. My cats are my lowest point at 2".
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
If I was you I would ditch the Eldebrock PHB, I have seen them break at the welds and come apart in bits, on lowered track cars on road circuits. And it sounds like you test your suspension as much if not more on your roads. I don't know of anyone anymore who'd recommend one. Also don't buy an Edelbroch Torque Arm as they break as well.
Also I would buy Sub Frame Conns 1st as they are pretty important on a lowered car.
My car is road track low with gfx, and kooks and LPPs are the only ones to give me the clearence to drive on the street. My cats are my lowest point at 2".
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Last edited by nighthawk15; 05-27-2009 at 08:01 PM.
05-28-2009, 03:23 PM
#17
TECH Resident
05-28-2009, 09:37 PM
#19
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I grinded a hole on the bottom of pass side collector from scrubbing so much. It was an easy fix with some metal and a welder. The front air dam hit on any incline. I've since installed some used SS springs a buddy gave me and all is good. Pic was when it was still lowered, same goes for my sig
Last edited by Smokinlt1; 05-28-2009 at 09:43 PM.
