Budget Minded 500whp
06-18-2009, 11:03 PM
#1
Budget Minded 500whp Hey Guys.
How would YOU build a 500whp (through an M6) boost car, with a budget mindset.
I know boost isnt exaclty budget friendly but, I mean build it right but not overkill for the power level. For example I doubt an F1 is needed for 500whp.
Forget "room to grow" just think about 500whp, and something relatively reliable.
How would you do it? S/C or T/C? Enigne Size? Parts? Tuning?
Once I finish up what Im working on now, I want to do a motor and was thinking spray, but I want to price out boost to and see if its worth the additional investment.
What do you think it would cost to get it done?
How would YOU build a 500whp (through an M6) boost car, with a budget mindset.
I know boost isnt exaclty budget friendly but, I mean build it right but not overkill for the power level. For example I doubt an F1 is needed for 500whp.
Forget "room to grow" just think about 500whp, and something relatively reliable.
How would you do it? S/C or T/C? Enigne Size? Parts? Tuning?
Once I finish up what Im working on now, I want to do a motor and was thinking spray, but I want to price out boost to and see if its worth the additional investment.
What do you think it would cost to get it done?
06-18-2009, 11:16 PM
#2
if you're good at fabbing turbo all the way
if not look for a cheap used sc
any engine size 350/355/383/396/etc is capable of making this power. stock heads and cam shouldn't be a problem with enough boost (make sure the compression is safe and the pistons are forged tho)
if not look for a cheap used sc
any engine size 350/355/383/396/etc is capable of making this power. stock heads and cam shouldn't be a problem with enough boost (make sure the compression is safe and the pistons are forged tho)
06-18-2009, 11:16 PM
#3
A stock bore with forged lower compression pistons, 1.6rr, good set of worked heads, ported intake, LT headers and a mild boost cam will get you 360-375 or so to the ground. Add colder plugs, bigger injectors then run a Paxton, Procharger, Vortech or like and you will get there. The less expensive way is N2O with WOT switch and a window.
06-18-2009, 11:42 PM
#6
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My buddy made high 400's with a stock bottom end, GTP 4 camshaft, bolt ons, and a Vortech [bought for 1200]. Stock 3.42 rear, crap 4l60e. Ran 11.3X at like 12X. I cant remember everything about the setup.
-Dustin-
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06-18-2009, 11:54 PM
#7
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I think you can get 500hp on a "budget", or I think you can build a FI car......but it is really hard to do both. I have been down this road - bought my ATI set up for 1/2 price, tried to price my 383 build as reasonable as possible, and still have almost 8k into my entire set up. If you are interested, let me know, and I can send you my parts list with what I paid in the spreadsheet I kept. PM me. You can see most of my part in my sig.
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06-19-2009, 12:23 AM
#8
See if I where gonna do it, Id probably try to run relatively stock top end stuff and compensate for it with extra boost. Seems like spending all that money on good top end parts and a trubo kit to just run low boost, is overkill. Remeber not really looking for room to grow 500whp is quite a bit for a street car.
If I was building an all out car Id go all out on everything. Id probably want to spend my money on the lower end and the turbo/S/C setup, and maybe later if I felt like it, upgrade the top end.
Something similar to skinnies build, but less power.
If I was building an all out car Id go all out on everything. Id probably want to spend my money on the lower end and the turbo/S/C setup, and maybe later if I felt like it, upgrade the top end.
Something similar to skinnies build, but less power.
06-19-2009, 10:17 AM
#9
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if i did it, i'd go turbo. i'd get some forged replacement pistons and new rings, thicker head gasket to drop compression just a tad, 1.6 rockers and a turbo cam, and def. a bigger fuel pump and injectors. keep boost relatively low, 5-8?
that way, you're able to hold the pressure, and you'll be flowing a better. dunno if it'll get you 500, but it should come close.
still though that's just bare bones IMO
that way, you're able to hold the pressure, and you'll be flowing a better. dunno if it'll get you 500, but it should come close.
still though that's just bare bones IMO
06-19-2009, 10:28 AM
#11
Bugdet and 500 rwhp never go hand in hand.
Oldie but goodie:
-Fast
-Cheap
-Reliable
Pick two...
That being said, if I were to EVER build an FI application, I wouldn't even think about putting anything together unless I was using a forged bottom end. If it were my build, I would get a Callies Compstar forged 383 rotating assembly w/ dished pistons and quality rings and bearings. Splayed 4-bolt block bored/honed/alignhoned/clearance by a reputable machine shop.
Now that the bottom end is covered, you want some bad *** ported AFR or TFS heads. Top it off with a ported single plane and a 4-hole TB. Quality turbo manifolds are also key.
Strap on a fat turbo and spin it to the moon. Good tune is essential.
I'd probably do a speed density tune with methanol injection.
Oldie but goodie:
-Fast
-Cheap
-Reliable
Pick two...
That being said, if I were to EVER build an FI application, I wouldn't even think about putting anything together unless I was using a forged bottom end. If it were my build, I would get a Callies Compstar forged 383 rotating assembly w/ dished pistons and quality rings and bearings. Splayed 4-bolt block bored/honed/alignhoned/clearance by a reputable machine shop.
Now that the bottom end is covered, you want some bad *** ported AFR or TFS heads. Top it off with a ported single plane and a 4-hole TB. Quality turbo manifolds are also key.
Strap on a fat turbo and spin it to the moon. Good tune is essential.
I'd probably do a speed density tune with methanol injection.
Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; 06-19-2009 at 11:04 AM.
06-19-2009, 10:57 AM
#12
Im thinking stock crank, studded mains, good I beams and rod bolts, forged pistons, stock heads, possibly a turbo cam.
What turbo would be a good match, and approximate boost level on that turbo?
06-19-2009, 11:19 AM
#13
I'd say swap in some arp rod bolts, forged pistons, a turbo grind cam, some decent heads and no bigger than a 60mm turbo. Try to keep the a/r ratios lower, so that you have usable boost....no 1.+ stuff, try .6-.7 a/r to keep spool time down....then go bigger injectors and if you're not at 500 you'll be damn close.. and be having a lot of fun.......
just my $.02
just my $.02
06-19-2009, 11:28 AM
#14
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yeah, but he's not trying to spin it to the moon. lol
you won't need rods, ours are supposed to be pretty tough. i'd get some arp rod bolts though. or studs if they make 'em. (i think they do)
just keep it low on boost and respect your rev limiter.
only problem i seen then is reliability, just like the old saying...
most homebuilt cheap turbo cars end up being hit or miss on reliability.
good luck though.
i'd look into the FI section to spec a turbo
or go buy 'street turbocharging' its a great read and very informative, oh and $20.
should help you a bit.
you won't need rods, ours are supposed to be pretty tough. i'd get some arp rod bolts though. or studs if they make 'em. (i think they do)
just keep it low on boost and respect your rev limiter.
only problem i seen then is reliability, just like the old saying...
most homebuilt cheap turbo cars end up being hit or miss on reliability.
good luck though.
i'd look into the FI section to spec a turbo
or go buy 'street turbocharging' its a great read and very informative, oh and $20.
should help you a bit.
06-19-2009, 04:40 PM
#19
06-19-2009, 04:45 PM
#20
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I'm building a 383 N/A lookin for 500 whp. I'm at almost $5G's and I've still got a ways to go.
Spent over $3500 on heads/cam/intake alone
Speed costs money
and all that ****
Spent over $3500 on heads/cam/intake alone
Speed costs money
and all that ****