LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Opti Question?

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Old 07-17-2009, 12:17 AM
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scj
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Default Opti Question?

ok so, i might be in need of a new opti...

do i just need a cap and rotor or do i need a whole new unit?
the car runs, it just has a mild misfire.

hmm..

help me out!
Old 07-17-2009, 12:21 AM
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i had that prob i went 2 jeggs bought a new 1 had a place put it in. It wsnt that much bout 3 n change 4 a aftermarket 1 the only prob i ran into was the guy that owned the car b4 me. Cut the wire n hardwired the MSD 1 that was in there. The connecter was only about 250.00 so its not that bad.
Old 07-17-2009, 12:36 AM
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i'm just wondering if i need a whole new optispark distributor or if i need just a distributor cap and rotor?
Old 07-17-2009, 02:47 AM
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anyone?
Old 07-17-2009, 02:51 AM
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Normally the only time that fixes the problem is when the car will not run at all but is still getting fuel (aka the rotor shatters in the cap).

If you getting misfires and its not bad wires or plugs more than likely your Opti is on the way out and a new cap and rotor will not fix it.

I would give you a 20% chance thats your issue.
Old 07-17-2009, 03:35 AM
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I usually recommend getting the whole unit. I only use AC Delco/Delphi oem opti's. "thepartsladi" on ebay has them for a good price. Don't forget to thread lock the rotor screws.
Old 07-17-2009, 06:34 AM
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I believe in preventive maintenance...the contacts on an Opti's cap and rotor will burn and corrode just the same as any other conventional distributor's cap and rotor will.

I replaced my '96 Z-28's OE cap and rotor at 35,000 miles. The contacts weren't the greatest, although the car still ran reasonably well. Last summer, I changed the cap and rotor again, as the car had hit a little over 70,000 miles. However, I failed to notice that the rear bushing in the distributor's housing had developed a little play, and I heard a slight "clicking" noise when I had it all buttoned up and running again.

Bottom line, the play in the bushing was allowing the rotor to move around a bit, and it was hitting the inside of the cap. I wound up replacing the entire unit, and kept the "almost new" cap and rotor for the next 30,000 mile replacement....
Old 07-17-2009, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I believe in preventive maintenance...the contacts on an Opti's cap and rotor will burn and corrode just the same as any other conventional distributor's cap and rotor will.

I replaced my '96 Z-28's OE cap and rotor at 35,000 miles. The contacts weren't the greatest, although the car still ran reasonably well. Last summer, I changed the cap and rotor again, as the car had hit a little over 70,000 miles. However, I failed to notice that the rear bushing in the distributor's housing had developed a little play, and I heard a slight "clicking" noise when I had it all buttoned up and running again.

Bottom line, the play in the bushing was allowing the rotor to move around a bit, and it was hitting the inside of the cap. I wound up replacing the entire unit, and kept the "almost new" cap and rotor for the next 30,000 mile replacement....
IMO changing the cap and rotor every 30k miles is way overkill.
My oem cap and rotor lasted 140k miles. New one has been on for 30k miles and still going strong. I see no need to change it.
Old 07-18-2009, 11:56 PM
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I had a missing problem after I bought my car. I changed plugs and wires, that didnt solve it. I bought an MSD cap and coil and the car has ran perfectly since. Also i didnt see what year your car is but if its a non vented opti I would personaly upgrade to a vented opti spark.
Old 07-19-2009, 12:55 AM
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it's a 97




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