View Poll Results: Would you buy ARP LT! Pressureplate bolts if made?
Voters: 32. You may not vote on this poll
ARP Pressure Plate Bolts....
07-29-2009, 05:25 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ARP Pressure Plate Bolts.... Ok so here's the deal guys. GM discontinued PN: 10079898 The Pressure Plate Bolt for LT1 cars. I refuse to replace the clutch without replacing these bolts since the initial torquing weakens them (I've snapped them like most everyone else). I called 12 dealerships to get 6 bolts so I decided to get the 7th one too which I plan to send to ARP for them to use for R&D of aftermarket replacement. I've already talked to a gentleman in the tech department, and He told me If I send him a bolt he will try to make it. I know I've read a few threads of other guys asking about an ARP replacement for these bolts, so what I am looking for here is a vote yes or no if you would purchase these at a reasonable price. Basically I can give them an Idea of interest from one source it might improve the chances of this product getting made. Obviously the more yes votes we can get the better the chances as long as the product can be made (I don't see why not).
-Kevin
-Kevin
07-29-2009, 05:57 PM
#4
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nope Most definitely NOT. Hard to explain with out use of a picture which I do not have at the moment. If anyone has a photo of an LT1 PP bolt please post it up for reference.
-Kevin
-Kevin
07-29-2009, 05:57 PM
#5
Do they need to be ARP bolts...I would just pick up a set of hardened bolts at Napa or Lowes or something. I've lost count of how many times I've removed and reinstalled a pressure plate, never once snapped a bolt. How much torque are you using?
07-29-2009, 06:02 PM
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Torque is 22 ft-lb. No they do not have to be made by ARP but ARP makes a quality product and they CAN NOT be your generic grade 8 bolt from NAPA because the Bolt is what centers the Pressure Plate. It's got a shoulder at the bottom of the grip that seats against the flywheel and provides a pinch fit on the pressure plate. Again a photo of a stock bolt would be handy to show what is the need for a specific bolt.
just click the link to see what I'm talking about.
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/2849/img0034.jpg
-Kevin
just click the link to see what I'm talking about.
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/2849/img0034.jpg
-Kevin
Last edited by shazow1969; 07-29-2009 at 06:48 PM.
Trending Topics
07-29-2009, 06:51 PM
#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also talked to ARP about this, but they weren't so kind. They told me they didn't make the bolt and had no plans of ever making one. I even told them there was a high demand and that I could send them a bolt. What makes me even more mad is if you call ARP, they will give you the part number for the LS1 pressure plate bolts - which won't work. Summit and Jegs also have the ARP LS1 pressure plates bolts listed as working for LT1's.
McLeod makes the bolts, but if I remember right they are $55 for the set of 6 - PN-1502. I ended up going to a hardware store and getting a Grade 8 bolt that I think will work fine, I spent less than $10 on all 6. It sits completely flush with the end of the flywheel and since I replaced all 6, I don't think the weight difference will matter. The bolt seriously looks like it was made for our clutches.
Here's what I was able to find:
VS Stock:
haha, that's my hand! And my dirty *** shed.
Nope, 22lbs is right. I found out the hard way when I was reading an LS1 clutch write up and tried to torque them to 55lbs.
McLeod makes the bolts, but if I remember right they are $55 for the set of 6 - PN-1502. I ended up going to a hardware store and getting a Grade 8 bolt that I think will work fine, I spent less than $10 on all 6. It sits completely flush with the end of the flywheel and since I replaced all 6, I don't think the weight difference will matter. The bolt seriously looks like it was made for our clutches.
Here's what I was able to find:
VS Stock:
Torque is 22 ft-lb. No they do not have to be made by ARP but ARP makes a quality product and they CAN NOT be your generic grade 8 bolt from NAPA because the Bolt is what centers the Pressure Plate. It's got a shoulder at the bottom of the grip that seats against the flywheel and provides a pinch fit on the pressure plate. Again a photo of a stock bolt would be handy to show what is the need for a specific bolt.
just click the link to see what I'm talking about.
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/2849/img0034.jpg
-Kevin
just click the link to see what I'm talking about.
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/2849/img0034.jpg
-Kevin
Nope, 22lbs is right. I found out the hard way when I was reading an LS1 clutch write up and tried to torque them to 55lbs.
Last edited by Counted Out; 07-29-2009 at 06:58 PM.
07-29-2009, 07:17 PM
#12
The torque-specs are there for a reason. Anything more and the bolt is fatigued and it WILL snap at some point. Not a matter of *IF* but *WHEN*. And yes, I seen it happen and had to deal with someone else mess after they just tightened them down (which overtorqued them)...
You sound as bad as some hack mechanics out there that use impacts to put every bolt on a car. No wonder there are so many fooked cars, people have no clue...
You sig is so laughable, as it is obvious YOU need an IQ test to work on ANYTHING.
Sorry, I guess "the_merv" hasn't done a LT1 clutch, so my presvious reply here was wrong in regards to him...
07-29-2009, 07:28 PM
#14
I hope to god you never work on someone else car... Overtorque them and when they snap you better hope it doesn't take out not only the clutch, but also the bellhousing... Hell, better hope it doesn't snap at WOT and chop someones foot off with shrapnel!
The torque-specs are there for a reason. Anything more and the bolt is fatigued and it WILL snap at some point. Not a matter of *IF* but *WHEN*. And yes, I seen it happen and had to deal with someone else mess after they just tightened them down (which overtorqued them)...
You sound as bad as some hack mechanics out there that use impacts to put every bolt on a car. No wonder there are so many fooked cars, people have no clue...
You sig is so laughable, as it is obvious YOU need an IQ test to work on ANYTHING.
Sorry, I guess "the_merv" hasn't done a LT1 clutch, so my presvious reply here was wrong in regards to him...
The torque-specs are there for a reason. Anything more and the bolt is fatigued and it WILL snap at some point. Not a matter of *IF* but *WHEN*. And yes, I seen it happen and had to deal with someone else mess after they just tightened them down (which overtorqued them)...
You sound as bad as some hack mechanics out there that use impacts to put every bolt on a car. No wonder there are so many fooked cars, people have no clue...
You sig is so laughable, as it is obvious YOU need an IQ test to work on ANYTHING.
Sorry, I guess "the_merv" hasn't done a LT1 clutch, so my presvious reply here was wrong in regards to him...
07-29-2009, 07:37 PM
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's long, but it sits completely flush with the end of the bolt "hole". I wish I would have taken a picture of that side of the clutch, but I wasn't thinking. I was just amazed I didn't have to grind it down at all.
When I took the stock pressure blate bolt into a local Hot Rod shop he didn't believe it was a pressure plate bolt because it was so much longer than any he had seen.
When I took the stock pressure blate bolt into a local Hot Rod shop he didn't believe it was a pressure plate bolt because it was so much longer than any he had seen.
07-29-2009, 07:51 PM
#16
I never said any of you guys are wrong..I'm reading this gaining the knowledge on how to do it and the differences between the two..
I said I impact mine cause they can be impacted in..that is how they are designed and recommended if you saw how it was setup.
The only thing wrong here is your spelling of previous fool.
You can kinda see the ones I have here..they are Hex Head. If they made them for the LT1 stuff it would be nice for you guys.
Last edited by the_merv; 07-29-2009 at 10:35 PM.
07-29-2009, 10:02 PM
#17
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SFL
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trust me, I've done it countless number of times and I've never had a problem. I've wrenched long enough to know what 22 ft lbs feels like. If you think that's a hack job, that's your opinion. Now cylinder heads, intake manifolds, things with gaskets, I follow strick torque sequences with a torque wrench. Other things I know how to tighten them.
Same here.. Little things like timing cover, oil pan, etc I do by hand lol, its not that hard to depict what a small amount of torque feels like (especially if you've done it many times before). I've never had a leak..
07-30-2009, 12:26 PM
#18
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I guess I'm just a little more **** about torquing bolts, I have yet to have a motor, or clutch, or anything else of importance come apart on me due to lack of proper torquing.
-Kevin
-Kevin