LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Labor costs for replacing opti/water pump

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Old 07-29-2009, 11:14 PM
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Default Labor costs for replacing opti/water pump

In need of getting my DD back up quick. I don't have the time to fix this myself, and money is a little tight right now. My waterpump is crapping out (noticed some coolant) sitting on my garage floor and my car wont start...go figure. Anyway what type of labor charges could I expect with replacing both the opti and the water pump at a shop? Any guestimates would be appreciated. Unless anyone here happens to be in San Antonio TX and would be interested in helping swap this thing out.

Also since I have to replace the water pump anyway, would I be better served with an electric or since this is a DD should I stick with the OEM GM replacement?
Old 07-30-2009, 07:23 AM
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Man I'd help you if I was in San Antonio this weekend just for a case of beer. Just spend the time and do it your self as you can get it done in just a few hours, not really that hard (actually pretty easy). You're prob gonna spend atleast 500 to have a shop do it as labor is not cheap these days. If you wanna bring it to Houston I have a lift and can help you any weekend (really don't need a lift but it's much easier on the back). Good luck.
Old 07-30-2009, 09:02 AM
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How hard of a job is this? I kind of understand the general concept but don't really know specifics?, like what screws to locktite or how / what prep work needs to be done to remove Andrews place both of those parts. Also are there any parts I need besides just the pump and opti...like gaskets etc. I think I have to drain the radiator to pull the pump, correct? Sorry for all the questions but I've never done anything like this.
Old 07-30-2009, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jaywalkersw
How hard of a job is this? I kind of understand the general concept but don't really know specifics?, like what screws to locktite or how / what prep work needs to be done to remove Andrews place both of those parts. Also are there any parts I need besides just the pump and opti...like gaskets etc. I think I have to drain the radiator to pull the pump, correct? Sorry for all the questions but I've never done anything like this.
Pretty easy, as all you really need to do is pull the intake, air pump (if you still have it) - just move it out of the way and rotate the crank to clear removing the opti (pull the balancer/pully). No locktite needed, just thread sealant on the wp bolts. All can be done from above and below the car, jack stands makes it easier to craw under there.

First:
Remove intake and bellow, and belt.

Second:
Remove pulley on crank hub (balancer). Might need to borrow a 3 jaw puller from AZ or Advance.

Third:
Remove the WP as I find it's easier to get to the bolts with it out of the way. 3 bolts on each side and there is one kinda behind the PS pulley, so a swivel socket makes it easier.

Forth:
Remove opti, bout 5 or 6 bolts holding it to the timing cover.

Fifth:
Get all your wp and opti gaskets from the local ap store (2 for wp) and 2 opti o rings as well. And put it all back together. Really not hard.

Call me if you have any questions and I'd be glad to give you some pointers. Check PM for my #.

Good luck.
Old 07-30-2009, 10:53 AM
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if your off on the weekends or even take a day off wake up early and follow dave00 directions you can have it done in a few hours if your money is tight going to a shop is out of the question im sure there is someone on here locally that can give you a hand if you were close to me i would definately help you
Old 07-30-2009, 10:59 AM
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flat out u gonna pay at least 4 to 500 on labor! ask me how I know this, but that was only the cap and rotor change
Old 07-30-2009, 11:02 AM
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Hey thanks in sure I might have to give you a call when i do this. What are the differences good/bad for using an EWP vs mechanical as far as installation? I know you have to reuse part of it. Can you reuse those parts if the mechanical was bad?
Old 07-30-2009, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jaywalkersw
Hey thanks in sure I might have to give you a call when i do this. What are the differences good/bad for using an EWP vs mechanical as far as installation? I know you have to reuse part of it. Can you reuse those parts if the mechanical was bad?
Yes, as you inessence remove the mechanical parts of the WP to install the EWP and then plug up the drive shaft hole. I know tons of cars/guys here like and use EWPs, but I personally use the mech stock pump as it works fine and no mods needed. If ur car is a DD I'd recc to stick with the mech pump as they are better for stop and go, typically last much longer and most times they (mech pumps) will give signs before failing as EWP's usually just stop working and not good if you're in traffic or long cruise. Upto you but I prefer stock replacement.
Old 07-30-2009, 11:56 AM
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my mechanic did the following for $350....change plugs, change oil, change oil filter, change/cut new msd wires, put a new rotor n cap kit on and since i had the water pump off i bought a new gm performance water pump....but that's up here in indy, i coulda hooked ya up.
Old 07-30-2009, 12:04 PM
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i would stick with the mechanical for a DD if your car had alot of mods then go electrical pump mechanical just put it and go no extra stuff involved
Old 07-30-2009, 02:53 PM
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Before i start ordering parts, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't misdiagnosising this. The car had been hard to start and last night it quit firing and would just crank. I didn't notice anything under the hood, but under the car on The floor beneath their pulley I found a puddle of antifreeze. Does this sound like The waterpump crapped on the opti? What other things should I elk or is that probably the problem? Finally besides gaskets the WO and opti are there any other parts I will need to fix this problem?
Old 07-30-2009, 03:01 PM
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Just go to AZ or Advance and Felpro makes a WP gasket kit and I am pretty sure the Opti o-rings come with but double check with them. As to the WP if you see AF it's prob coming out the weephole and mostlikely killed ur Opti. Can u get it scanned to see if it's throwing any codes? Also, have ur ICM and Coil checked as well (can be done by the above AP stores) to make sure they are in good working order.
Old 07-30-2009, 04:50 PM
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The car never threw any SES codes. I didn't know advance and those places could test the coil and ICM as well as the PCM. Do they need to be in the car for them to be tested or could I remove them and have it done?
Old 07-30-2009, 05:13 PM
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You will prolly have to remove those to have them done. Don't go with an EWP on a DD if you have never ventured much into the engine bay. It takes alot of work and time that you most likely do not have.

I would order a GM opti and find a waterpump for sale somewhere - the opti will come with the necessary o-ring and just about any parts store will have the 2 gaskets for the waterpump. Make sure you get 2 gaskets, I had a place that gave me a kit with only 1 in it
Old 07-30-2009, 06:19 PM
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You should do it yourself! Although getting to the opti is a pain its really not hard at all. Don't waste your money paying some shop to do a job like that....you would pay more taking it to a repair shop. Why not save the extra money and learn something new!
Old 07-30-2009, 06:31 PM
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wow... I usually charge $50 to $75 bucks+parts for a water pump/opti install.. depending on if its a stone stock car, or if it's had the air pump,donkey dong, etc. removed.

looks like i need to start upping my rates, or you guys need to start coming to me!
Old 07-30-2009, 06:35 PM
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Lol, well if I was in KY I would definitely consider it.

I just ordered the GMPP hi-flow mech pump from summit and ordered a Delphi Opti from thepartsladi. Looks like I am in for a good learning experience in a week or two. Anyone want to take bets on how long it will take a newbie to swap these out the first time? I will have access to a lift so that should make it easier.
Old 07-30-2009, 06:50 PM
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You don't need a lift nor should you have to get under the car. It should take about a hr to do. I suggest getting a repair manual it will help alot!



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