LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

trouble removing rear LCA bolt

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Old 08-03-2009, 12:17 PM
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Default trouble removing rear LCA bolt

This thing is STUCK! The front one came out no problem... What do you guys recommend to get this sucker out? I think it's just rusted in the bushing sleeve. I've got penetrating oil in there, and I've pounded the crap out of it, but it's not budging... and of course, I don't have a torch to heat up the bushing sleeve...
Old 08-03-2009, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dadic 78
This thing is STUCK! The front one came out no problem... What do you guys recommend to get this sucker out? I think it's just rusted in the bushing sleeve. I've got penetrating oil in there, and I've pounded the crap out of it, but it's not budging... and of course, I don't have a torch to heat up the bushing sleeve...
Torch and impact guns should solve the issue. I have a 2" breaker bar that usually settles all disputes...
Old 08-03-2009, 12:57 PM
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For me the wd 40 only helped remove the nuts not the bolts which were seized inside the sleeve.It took me a couple days to get them out. I found my air hammer to help me the most as well as a air cut-off tool.
Old 08-03-2009, 01:50 PM
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I'm in the middle of the exact same problem! With the tire off I put a bottle jack directly under the bolt and put the full weight of the car on it and it didn't move. I actually went to the trouble of removing the entire k-member to get the a-arm bolt out. Well with the kmember on the ground. Impact was no good, heating with a torch was no good, soaking in several times for days of penetrating oil was no good. I even used a big *** sledge hammer at over my head swings and the bolt will still not come out. I ended up hitting the bolt to hard that it completely dented up the kmember... Time to buy a tubular kmember and be done with this bullshit.
Old 08-03-2009, 02:03 PM
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Use a good 1/2" drive 6-point socket, PB Blaster, and the longest breaker bar you can find (or put together). The only science to removing stuck large bolts is to PUSH HARDER. Since the bolt is so large it should be pretty hard to round it off. Never had a problem using this method.

Worse comes to worse, you can slip a Sawzall in there and cut the bastard.
Old 08-03-2009, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
Use a good 1/2" drive 6-point socket, PB Blaster, and the longest breaker bar you can find (or put together). The only science to removing stuck large bolts is to PUSH HARDER. Since the bolt is so large it should be pretty hard to round it off. Never had a problem using this method.

Worse comes to worse, you can slip a Sawzall in there and cut the bastard.

The problem with this is it would be impossible to do this with the kmember on the car. There is no access to put any socket on this bolt and even if you could get a socket on it, it wouldn't matter because this bolt is keyed. So unless you want to break the key... Also there aren't enough threads sticking out to double jam nut and use a socket on the other side. Also even if you broke the key off and did put a socket on the bolt is will strip easy because for who knows why this bolt has a very thin top. Not much for a socket to even bite onto. Cutting might work but your going to have to cut straight through the bushing and possible damage the kmember or a-arm.
Old 08-03-2009, 04:48 PM
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I'll try the bottle-jack method. Got them both soaking in penetrating oil right now. If that doesn't work, I'll bust out the trusty sawzall.
Old 08-03-2009, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by luckyou03
The problem with this is it would be impossible to do this with the kmember on the car. There is no access to put any socket on this bolt and even if you could get a socket on it, it wouldn't matter because this bolt is keyed. So unless you want to break the key... Also there aren't enough threads sticking out to double jam nut and use a socket on the other side. Also even if you broke the key off and did put a socket on the bolt is will strip easy because for who knows why this bolt has a very thin top. Not much for a socket to even bite onto. Cutting might work but your going to have to cut straight through the bushing and possible damage the kmember or a-arm.
What does the front k-member have to do with the rear LCA bolt?
Old 08-03-2009, 07:22 PM
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checking around for ball joints, etc... and I came across this (very well priced) package on Ebay. Anyone have any info on this seller, and/or the quality of the set? The price seems too good to be true. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tab%3DWatching
Old 08-03-2009, 07:47 PM
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PB Blaster is always a good start.
Old 08-04-2009, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
What does the front k-member have to do with the rear LCA bolt?
I think he was thinking you were replying to his problem w/ the A-arm...
Old 08-06-2009, 07:27 PM
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So, these bolts have been soaked in penetrating fluid for three days, I went at 'em today, and nothing... With the nut back on slightly, I tried using a jack at the bottom of the nut to push the bolt up, and it just lifted (and held) the car off the jackstands. With the car still supported by the rusty bolt about 1/2" off the jackstands, I hit the bushing sleeve with the torch, heated it up for a good 15 minutes, beat the living crap out of it, and still nothing...

Tomorrow I'm going sawzall-blade shopping!
Old 08-06-2009, 08:04 PM
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That is exactly what I did. I had to cut mine out. That is what I would suggest. The bolts on mine were rusted solid all the way through. I was replacing the arms so I didn't care. Couple hour job turned into 3 days! Good luck. New bolts were only a couple bucks at the dealer though.



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