header install problem
08-05-2009, 10:24 PM
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header install problem so i get the driver's side header bolted on and when i got under the car to put the oil filter on (i had taken it off previous to install) i realized that the headers will not clear the oil filter. they are for my year car, i have a 93 and i got them from a guy that has a 94. they are dynatech lts and im trying to use a fram filter. anyone else have this problem???? 
08-06-2009, 12:06 AM
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mmm..sounds like the headers may be warped (maybe) if you cant get the filter in. u should have a good 5-6 inches. i have pacesetters lts with a fram filter...
08-06-2009, 12:24 AM
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check out the thread on the LPP headers. There is a relocation kit talked about on there that will help you out I bet. When in doubt though, talk to ss.slp.ls1 he seems to be the resident expert on EVERYTHING on these cars. He has probably dealt with it on his or someone else's LT1.
08-06-2009, 12:34 AM
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I have Dynatech LT's on my car and I just use a short oil filter. Mobile 1 makes em, so does STP. I dont have a problem with a regular filter fitting though, it just it a tight fit...you shouldnt be much different than me
08-06-2009, 02:09 AM
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hmmm, well im gunna run up to the auto parts store tomorrow and try a short filter. i dont think the headers are warped, they bolt on completely flush with the head
08-06-2009, 06:20 AM
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You more than likely have the oil cooler housing...my '93 T/A did. It has to be removed for the long tubes to clear...or relocated I guess. You remove the cooler, put the filter directly to the block instead of the little cooler extension, and the header will more than likely clear.
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08-06-2009, 10:38 AM
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You have to run them to a "t" or "y" back to itself...the coolant lines that is, and remove the hard lines and cooler. Someone will eventually chime in with pictures Im sure, but basically, you remove the cooler, the hard lines, and re-route the coolant lines back into the water pump/radiator/etc. up front.
08-06-2009, 11:58 AM
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You have to run them to a "t" or "y" back to itself...the coolant lines that is, and remove the hard lines and cooler. Someone will eventually chime in with pictures Im sure, but basically, you remove the cooler, the hard lines, and re-route the coolant lines back into the water pump/radiator/etc. up front.
08-06-2009, 01:10 PM
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Look along side your oil pan. You should see two alum hard lines that turn to rubber at right about the front of the engine. One rubber hose goes to the lower driver side port of the radiator and one goes to the lower driver side port of the water pump. Disconnect both of those lines and use a length of rubber hose to connect the water pump straight to the radiator, bypassing the oil cooler.
The oil cooler is held on by a large nut. Unscrew the large nut. There is also a little bracket that bolts the hard lines to the side of the block, unbolt that too. Now remove the oil cooler. Now you should see the oil filter adapter that is secured to the block with two little screws. Remove the screws. If you look at the two little bolts, you should see some excess material on the top of the bolt head (you'll see what I'm talking about when you see them), that needs to be cut/ground off because it will have clearance issues with the oil filter. You can also find replacement bolts tht don't have the extra material on them. Ones from cars without oil coolers have flat heads. Once you modify those bolts or find replacements, you can bolt the oil filter adapter back onto the block and you are good to go.
I'm just going off memory here, so let me know if you have any issues.
The oil cooler is held on by a large nut. Unscrew the large nut. There is also a little bracket that bolts the hard lines to the side of the block, unbolt that too. Now remove the oil cooler. Now you should see the oil filter adapter that is secured to the block with two little screws. Remove the screws. If you look at the two little bolts, you should see some excess material on the top of the bolt head (you'll see what I'm talking about when you see them), that needs to be cut/ground off because it will have clearance issues with the oil filter. You can also find replacement bolts tht don't have the extra material on them. Ones from cars without oil coolers have flat heads. Once you modify those bolts or find replacements, you can bolt the oil filter adapter back onto the block and you are good to go.
I'm just going off memory here, so let me know if you have any issues.
08-06-2009, 09:28 PM
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Any recommendation on a header for a 93 that has to stay full emmision/air, the whole nine yards... shorties/mid, coated Edelbrock, or just stay with stock manifolds?
08-07-2009, 08:56 AM
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I make too many problems for myself as it is, not really looking to go that route.
The car is street driven on the weekends since they took away all our drag strips here. Just wanted to see what other options I had and if it was worth it?
The car is street driven on the weekends since they took away all our drag strips here. Just wanted to see what other options I had and if it was worth it?
08-07-2009, 12:36 PM
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do a search for shorties, preferably one with dyno results before and after. I never trust someone's "butt" dyno.
(dude, I can feel how much faster I get to 60!)
(dude, I can feel how much faster I get to 60!)
