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LT1-LT4 Modifications
1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

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Old 12-09-2009, 12:44 PM   #1
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Default can an LT1 handle 800-1000hp?!?!

im considering turbo'ing my nova with the 383 LT1 in the next few years, after my planned build is done this winter.

my question, is. can the LT1 support that much power with a studded and girdled 2 bolt block?

specs will be:

single plane
xfi 292 cam
trickflow 195's ported to where thet need to be for that power
loww compression
forged internals, 6in rods
either a big blow thrugh carb or an aftermarket efi?(its carbed at the moment)

what is needed to support boost on the LT1 blocks?

ive searched and not really found anything useful, and i dont want to go back in the other direction and build a regular sbc.
thanks guys.
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:43 PM   #2
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If you're going to try I'd say hard block it and put splayed 4 bolts in to keep the caps in one place. But if you hard block it you won't have a street car, it'll be drag only since you won't have a cooling system.....
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:55 PM   #3
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^^ hard blocking will be a NO NO! lol, and possibly the spalyed 4 bolt conversion, ill consider that.
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:56 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by slownova73 View Post
im considering turbo'ing my nova with the 383 LT1 in the next few years, after my planned build is done this winter.

my question, is. can the LT1 support that much power with a studded and girdled 2 bolt block?

specs will be:

single plane
xfi 292 cam
trickflow 195's ported to where thet need to be for that power
loww compression
forged internals, 6in rods
either a big blow thrugh carb or an aftermarket efi?(its carbed at the moment)

what is needed to support boost on the LT1 blocks?

ive searched and not really found anything useful, and i dont want to go back in the other direction and build a regular sbc.
thanks guys.
Nope not possible to handle 800 HP on LT1's...... If you are spending that kind of cash and have those power goals and just slapping a girdle on it, that's a problem. Why would you not get mains splayed...
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Old 12-09-2009, 02:30 PM   #5
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^^ hard blocking will be a NO NO! lol, and possibly the spalyed 4 bolt conversion, ill consider that.
I'd talk to the guys making close to that and see what they say....I'm doing a 408 and have to do a short fill so that I can grind by the pan rail and not hit any water jackets....so you're probably going to have to do it in some shape or form just to keep the cyl. from moving around too much at that hp level.
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Old 12-09-2009, 02:30 PM   #6
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splay the mains... it's like 500 bucks.... and you will want 4 bolt mains for that kind of power....

My block is half filled with hard blok. You do not completely get rid of the cooling system unless you do a complete fill and then yes it will be only a quarter mile at a time car....

Mine is half filled which adds alot of structural rigidity to the block. I'm likely going forced induction after I play with this motor and nitrous for a bit longer and try to get teh car into the 8.80 range... I'm most likely going to do a big single FI94X and try to make 1300-1500hp....

So the answer is yes, do your homework and you can't skimp on good parts. 1000hp and having it live will cost money. if that money isn't there for you lower your power goals till it fits the wallet....
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Old 12-09-2009, 02:36 PM   #7
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I drive mine all over with a 1/2 fill block.

Yes the factory block can handle 1000 hp.

Do a Google on Rick intrau.

Search Z8s on here.Also Big Purple.
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:12 PM   #8
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Nope not possible to handle 800 HP on LT1's...... If you are spending that kind of cash and have those power goals and just slapping a girdle on it, that's a problem. Why would you not get mains splayed...
yea i no about converting it to splayed 4 bolts, its on the list

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splay the mains... it's like 500 bucks.... and you will want 4 bolt mains for that kind of power....

My block is half filled with hard blok. You do not completely get rid of the cooling system unless you do a complete fill and then yes it will be only a quarter mile at a time car....

Mine is half filled which adds alot of structural rigidity to the block. I'm likely going forced induction after I play with this motor and nitrous for a bit longer and try to get teh car into the 8.80 range... I'm most likely going to do a big single FI94X and try to make 1300-1500hp....

So the answer is yes, do your homework and you can't skimp on good parts. 1000hp and having it live will cost money. if that money isn't there for you lower your power goals till it fits the wallet....
well it doesnt fit the wallet, but it will happen over time, im getting parts piled up now.

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I drive mine all over with a 1/2 fill block.

Yes the factory block can handle 1000 hp.

Do a Google on Rick intrau.

Search Z8s on here.Also Big Purple.
ill do that.
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:28 PM   #9
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if you cant afford to get the splayed mains maybe look into an lt4 block..
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
if you cant afford to get the splayed mains maybe look into an lt4 block..
you'll probably come upon a purple unicorn before you find one of those....

or any vette block from 92-97..... they are all 4 bolt mains...
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10.62@128 all motor
9.06@153.8, 1.35 60' ft on the bottle, 5.76 1/8th mile (aborted 8 second pass )
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:09 PM   #11
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I drive mine all over with a 1/2 fill block.
Same here. Runs about as cool as it ever did, even with the increased compression.
110* summer heat, 30* fall chills ... no problems yet.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:56 PM   #12
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Same here. Runs about as cool as it ever did, even with the increased compression.
110* summer heat, 30* fall chills ... no problems yet.
thats good to know!
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:22 PM   #13
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no the two bolt will not hold the power, you need to make the center caps 4 bolt splade. i had hard block in mine right below the freeze plugs, and i drove my car on the street with out any heating issues. i live in louisiana and it get hot down here. i would recommend a bigger radiator and the heavy duty water pump by meziere. i made over 1000hp on the dyno.
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:27 PM   #14
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no the two bolt will not hold the power, you need to make the center caps 4 bolt splade. i had hard block in mine right below the freeze plugs, and i drove my car on the street with out any heating issues. i live in louisiana and it get hot down here. i would recommend a bigger radiator and the heavy duty water pump by meziere. i made over 1000hp on the dyno.
so deffinetly a 4 bolt conversion. and i already hav a CSR ewp, and a big *** radiator.
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:52 PM   #15
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No hardblock in my block either and I beat on it. 740rwhp w/ conservative timing and still need to tune w/ meth. 4 bolt splayed is all you need and a motorplate if you want overkill.
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:41 PM   #16
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Can the block handle 1000hp without adding hardblock? Also what exactly is hardblock and when should it be used?
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Old 12-10-2009, 04:51 PM   #17
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I used hard block aka cement when I new I wanted to make over a 1000hp to the wheels. I would recommend it just for stablity we really don't know how much power the block will hold before cracking.
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Old 12-10-2009, 05:39 PM   #18
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hardblok is basically what equates to cement in the water passages..... when the freeze plugs are off the block generally BEFORE you bore it and hone it you will take hardblok and add water to it, turn the block so it's at a 45 degree angle on the engine stand and you pour the wet mixture into the water passages up to the bottom of the freeze plugs. You let it set like that until dry then do the other side. It dries up like concrete and reinforces all the lower webbing on the block where the caps screw into the block and generally provides alot of structural stability to the bottom of the block...

downside is that it cuts your coolant capacity in half thereby making it harder to keep your engine cool. less coolant in the system means more heat being transferred into the little water that remains.... one upside is that the hardblok does shield some of the coolant from transferring heat from the hot oil that is right below it. So it adds some insulation from heat from the pan but also decreases coolant capacity overall.... put a good radiator on it and you probably wont' even notice....
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10.62@128 all motor
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Old 12-10-2009, 05:52 PM   #19
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My engine builder likes to user block sealer epoxy in the bottom of the water passages first then once it cures he puts hardblock on top of it either half fill for street/strip motors or full fill for race only motors. By doing this it prevents seepage since the epoxy is non porous unlike cement which is porous.
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OutlawZ View Post
hardblok is basically what equates to cement in the water passages..... when the freeze plugs are off the block generally BEFORE you bore it and hone it you will take hardblok and add water to it, turn the block so it's at a 45 degree angle on the engine stand and you pour the wet mixture into the water passages up to the bottom of the freeze plugs. You let it set like that until dry then do the other side. It dries up like concrete and reinforces all the lower webbing on the block where the caps screw into the block and generally provides alot of structural stability to the bottom of the block...

downside is that it cuts your coolant capacity in half thereby making it harder to keep your engine cool. less coolant in the system means more heat being transferred into the little water that remains.... one upside is that the hardblok does shield some of the coolant from transferring heat from the hot oil that is right below it. So it adds some insulation from heat from the pan but also decreases coolant capacity overall.... put a good radiator on it and you probably wont' even notice....
Thanks for the info!
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:18 PM
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