Car Slowly Dropped RPMs and Died....Now Doesn't?
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car Slowly Dropped RPMs and Died....Now Doesn't?
I drove my car to my shop to paint my hood and after I painted it, it died while in reverse just backing it out of the booth. It would run really rough and the RPM's would drop and it would die. I tried to start it a few more times. One of those times I tried to keep the rpm's up to keep it from dying and it seemed to not register the gas pedal. Then the next few times it did register and I revved it and put it in gear to move it out of the way and it died again. I started it a few more times and it seemed like it would stay running in park for longer, but when I put it in drive or reverse it would drop the rpms and die, though I believe it did die in par a few times. Scanned it and got no codes. I had it towed to my house and when it got there it wouldn't die, it ran fine going into my driveway and I left it on and put it in gear a few times, and it stayed running, but it did seem like it would idle high, sometmes the tb gets stuck in park and if you rev it or physically push it down at the tb end it would return to normal neutral idle, but it wouldn't, it would idle at like 1200-1400.
Last week a rocker came loose and I had it towed home again and I re-adjusted the rockers to 3/4 turn and put polylocks on this time. These are stock rockers btw. Seemed I finally got it right. Then when I went to leave to go somewhere I accidentally hit an aftermarket security override button with my foot and it blew a fusible link. I repaired the fusible link and everything went fine until now.
The motor has roughly 15,000 miles on it and ever since I blew a headgasket about 6 months ago it's been nothing but trouble. I also replaced the fuel pump when i ran it dry and also the opti during the headgasket repair because there was a parts store opti on there and I didn't like it. It has a madZ28 tune as of abut 3/11/09 Coil is new, ICM has been recently tested, FPR and EGR are new. I am leaning towards something like TPS or IAC...what do you think?
Last week a rocker came loose and I had it towed home again and I re-adjusted the rockers to 3/4 turn and put polylocks on this time. These are stock rockers btw. Seemed I finally got it right. Then when I went to leave to go somewhere I accidentally hit an aftermarket security override button with my foot and it blew a fusible link. I repaired the fusible link and everything went fine until now.
The motor has roughly 15,000 miles on it and ever since I blew a headgasket about 6 months ago it's been nothing but trouble. I also replaced the fuel pump when i ran it dry and also the opti during the headgasket repair because there was a parts store opti on there and I didn't like it. It has a madZ28 tune as of abut 3/11/09 Coil is new, ICM has been recently tested, FPR and EGR are new. I am leaning towards something like TPS or IAC...what do you think?
Last edited by Marc3.4V6; 01-10-2010 at 10:52 AM.
#3
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow, seriously? I thought maybe because I had baked it a few times (120+ degrees), but I never even thought about the paint fumes. But why has that never happened to any other cars we've painted, at the shop, granted we rarely get cars as old as 1994? The LT1 is sensitive?
#5
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You know....I wasn't able to completely cover the engine compartment like standard procedure because I had just driven the car there from my house and was worried the manifold would catch the paper on fire, so I basically went as far as I could with the paper. It worked as far as not getting any dirt from there but I can definitely see some lingering fumes sucking into the mass air. I'll clean that just in case.
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got a bad exhaust leak too, I went under there and on the pass side the y pipe is missing 2 bolts....must have came loose. Those are the hardest to put on on that side. .
#7
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
fixed the exhaust leak and was able to take it for some test drives, I couldn't get it to act up again. It seems your explanation is likely, but I've had so much trouble with this car I don't trust it. I refuse to be towed again, I'm sick of it, 3 times already. I'm not sure if I should drive it to work. But it is a huge pain in the *** to take it to a shop, I never get any free time.
Trending Topics
#10
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Disclaimer - this is a bump from a 1 year old thread
Problem came back only no paint booth was involved. It starts right up just fine every time on the first try, it just wouldn't stay running, happened more quickly when put into gear. Again, I had it towed home and it wouldn't die anymore. At the time this happened, it didn't overheat, was running cool as always. All I did today is swap some interior parts for an 02 Z28 and swapped a couple window switches, had the doors open a while but left the car running a few times so the battery wouldn't die. Voltage was the same as it was a day before this happened, 13.4 when running so I don't think it's voltage related, even though I probably should be around 14v. Fuel pressure also seems fine 37 when cycled, doesn't move when started either. I didn't have a chance to check it with the vac line disconnected, though. I've only had the car back for about 5 days. Shop had it for about a week they adjusted the valves on both sides, fixed a tranny leak, a fuel line leak, put a rear end cover on it, welded SFC's, and it looks like they added a fuel vapor line or something up front. This problem hasn't re-occured since last year, running fine before I dropped it off and the 5 days after I got it back prior to this.
I'm about ready to throw parts at it, like ICM or something. But don't know where to start and don't know if it will mysteriously go away like last time or come back again. Very frustrating.
Problem came back only no paint booth was involved. It starts right up just fine every time on the first try, it just wouldn't stay running, happened more quickly when put into gear. Again, I had it towed home and it wouldn't die anymore. At the time this happened, it didn't overheat, was running cool as always. All I did today is swap some interior parts for an 02 Z28 and swapped a couple window switches, had the doors open a while but left the car running a few times so the battery wouldn't die. Voltage was the same as it was a day before this happened, 13.4 when running so I don't think it's voltage related, even though I probably should be around 14v. Fuel pressure also seems fine 37 when cycled, doesn't move when started either. I didn't have a chance to check it with the vac line disconnected, though. I've only had the car back for about 5 days. Shop had it for about a week they adjusted the valves on both sides, fixed a tranny leak, a fuel line leak, put a rear end cover on it, welded SFC's, and it looks like they added a fuel vapor line or something up front. This problem hasn't re-occured since last year, running fine before I dropped it off and the 5 days after I got it back prior to this.
I'm about ready to throw parts at it, like ICM or something. But don't know where to start and don't know if it will mysteriously go away like last time or come back again. Very frustrating.
Last edited by Marc3.4V6; 01-16-2011 at 11:22 PM.