slow3hoe2

iTrader: (3)

I know to do a search. Ive been looking through stuff or a couple hours now. Im looking for some clear answers so I decided to start a thread. Ive also never worked on a LT1 before and have very little knowledge of them. Thanks

Doing some work to a friends car and he decided he wants a nitrous kit. Car is a 96Z auto with under 50k on it. Car has some bolt-ons. Headers, the rest of the exhaust looks stock. 3.73 gear. k&n cold air kit. he says it has a cam but it must be very mild because it seems stock to me. has a jet MAF. I can see a msd8231 coil on it. he has a hypertech programer new in the box. thats about all I see so far.

he wants a zex dry kit for it. I know there are other prefered nitrous kits to use...but this is what it is so thats that. the kit is ordered and on its way.

This is a 50yr old lawyer with no car knowledge. he decides he wants a nitrous kit. He will probably use it a few times and never use it again...but I still want to get this installed for him so its reliable and doesnt hurt the car. It will be set on the 75hp setting, never more. I will also be installing some MT drag radials on it.

So basically Im just looking for info of what is needed to make this work perfect. I ordered a msd window switch. what parameters should be set on that?

is the stock fuel pump ok for this?

does any timing need to be pulled for this?

he said he just had some $80 spark plugs put in it. not sure what they are. on a 75 shot am I worried about plugs? if so what should I put in there?

Im very knowledgable with nitrous when spraying a 500hp fogger...just never done a nitrous kit on a LT1. Im just looking for any tips that would be helpful to me in getting this done properly.

thanks very much for any help!!

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

Since its a dry shot, he will need to upgrade his fuel pump since it will work harder when on the bottle. 75 shot I wouldnt worry about pulling timing but i would do colder plugs.

DopdBrd

iTrader: (25)

Stock pump MAY be alright. I was spraying a 150 shot on my stock pump and it wouldn't keep up so I had to replace it with a walbro unit. So it's hit and miss with this.

Window switch I would set at around 3200 and shut it off 200 rpms lower than your shift point. I've never liked spraying it between shifts just to try and help the tranny out a little.

If it has 80 dollar spark plugs in it I would take them out and throw them in the garbage. First off anyone dumb enough to spend that much on spark plugs is an idiot. 2nd, if they were that expensive they are probably multi double tipped platinum tipped uranium cored high hp plugs (insert sarcasm here) and will be devastating to the motor on nitrous. Get some good copper plugs 1-2 heat ranges colder than stock and gap them around .035.

I would pull a couple degrees of timing just to be safe.

Not to be a dick, but if you're building 500 hp fogger kits, why are you having trouble with a little 75hp kit? Same basic rules apply.

jasonisdn

iTrader: (1)

the kit should come with a inline boost pump. i would not spray it below 3000 rpm. pull 2 degrees of timing. plugs, i would say one step colder than stock. then check them and make sure they look ok. a 125 shot on stock injectors had my injectors at 100% duty cycle. the 125 maxed them out at 120 some % or so the tuner said back then. 10+ years ago i think. edit: yeah make sure to listen to the other guy about the type of plug. i just assume everyone knows not to run platinum plugs with nitrous.

slow3hoe2

iTrader: (3)

just trying to figure out what the basics are and seeing what a car that I know nothing about will need. if it was a guy asking for a 500shot on a 1300hp 632 I would not be asking questions. 2 completely different ball games here. of course I know the basics...just thought id ask people that have experience with this certain vehicle...which I have none. Thanks very much for your answers. Very helpful.

so if the kit comes on at lets say 3000 and then shuts off 200 before the shift...then do I have the option to keep it off till it draws the rpms down to a certain point? Or does it turn back on right when it drops 200rpms from the shift? i used one of these window switches a while ago. dont remember exactly how it works. just looking to see exactly what to do on it. Thanks!

How do you retard the timing on these cars?

I thought it came with a pump also...but the salesman at summit said it didnt. I hope it does.

yeah i figured that much about the plugs. thats the first thing I thought of when he said he spent that much. just seeing if a 75shot was enough nitrous to worry about changing them or not. I will def change them. Do you have a part number you'd recommend?

Thanks again for the help guys!!

SPEED#1

iTrader: (14)

Stock pump will work with that and for a dry shot he will be fine with a 75 shot all day. I have done it hundreds of time with that same exact kit, power that car has. You will not need to retard timing or anything. But I recommend putting in TR6 ngk plugs. Other than that just install the kit and plugs, then have fun.

DopdBrd

iTrader: (25)

A window switch will operate as long as it is in the preset RPM's. So if you have it set at 3500 and say 5800 then as long as you are in that rpm at WOT it will be active. If you are shifting at 6000 then as soon as you shift and it drops below 5800 it will activate again.

joeZ96

iTrader: (3)

I assume the ZEX LTX dry kit works simliar to the NOS 5176 dry kit in that it boosts fuel pressure via the regulator to dump the extra fuel. I would maybe look into upgrading the fuel injectors as the stockers have been known to have some issues handling the increased fuel pressure. I ran SVO 30# injectors when I was running the NOS 5176 kit. And as mentioned, slightly colder plugs (NGK-TR6) and an inline fuel pump would be a good idea as well.

jasonisdn

iTrader: (1)

you would need a aftermarket ignition box or a lap top with a program and cable to alter the timing. there is a free program that works well called Tuner Pro, you can google and find it. i cant remember my plug numbers off the top of my head. a good autolite plug will work just fine. advance will have the heart range in their computer for factory, one step colder should be fine. if that kit does not come with a inline pump, i would be weary of it. my car was lean until i had it tuned on that zex kit. edit: i was on the 125 shot, i think. hell it was maxed out lol

illusions

iTrader: (3)

For spark plugs NGK TR6's are junk the electrodes are not very forgiving. I've had much better luck with Autolite 104's gapped .035. pull 2 degrees of timing (you do this with a programmer) not sure if the hypertech can do this.

Safety devices would be fuel pressure safety switch, window switch as mentioned before set at 3k and 200 rpms below shift points. and a WOT switch.

slow3hoe2

iTrader: (3)

Thanks everyone for all the tips!

slow3hoe2

iTrader: (3)

It did end up coming with a booster pump so thats good!

now in the middle of changing header gaskets on this thing. how do you guys own/work with these cars?!!

jasonisdn

iTrader: (1)

there are a few requirements for LT1 owners (or people that work on them)
1. If you don't like giving blood to the car gods , you need not apply
2. If you don't have patience, you need not apply
3. If you aren't already a little crazy, you will be before long.
4. If you like having money in your wallet , you need not apply.
5. If you want to meet people that aren't quite stable, stay on the LT1 forums (lol)
6. If you want people to underestimate your car, a LT1 is perfect.
7. Finally if you like working in tight spaces with an engine half way under your dash (i am willing to bet the designer of that feature built vans before hand) welcome to the beginning of insanity. Have a nice day

jasonisdn

iTrader: (1)

ps
glad to see it came with the pump.

slow3hoe2

iTrader: (3)

hahaha I am finding out ALL are true!

slingshot928

You would be correct about lt1 fbodys...always great to work on especially getting to the back sparkplugs and header bolts against the firewall. If you haven't though of this already, stubby gear wrenches are awesome.

WOOS1

iTrader: (1)

You left an important one out:

8. After 10 minutes working in the engine compartment, you will want to kick the GM engineering/accounting department in the nuts. Twice!

slow3hoe2

iTrader: (3)

got the headers off and doing the plugs. the current plugs have a lot of oil on them. It seems like there is oil leaking from everywhere underneath this car. not a lot but everything is wet and cant really see where its coming from. the rear main seal "looks" dry...hard to tell though. should I recommend to this guy to not put a nitrous kit on it? If it has a lot of blowby Id think its gonna make oil leaks worse by spraying it. omg this car is a nighmare. wish I never took on this project

slow3hoe2

iTrader: (3)

marc97taws6

iTrader: (6)

My car was a mess too before my buddy worked on it.

Turned out I was leaking a whole bunch of oil because at one point in time they had the oil pan and timing cover off and reused the shitty gaskets. Didn't help that 1 out of the 4 bolts on the oil pan was torqued to spec either...

Now she doesn't drip a drop