LT1 Stall Converter
07-22-2010, 02:51 PM
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LT1 Stall Converter What is the best stall converter for my stock 95 Trans Am will be doing mods in the future like cam gears full exhaust etc? i will be having my 4l60e tranny built to support 500 hp with a shift kit as well dont know what stall size i should go with please help thanks people tell me i should go with a 2000 or 2500...
07-22-2010, 03:12 PM
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i bought an lt4 hotcam cheap, and i bought a 2500rpm stall and put it in the car with the stock engine and trans and rear gears..
even if i dont use the hotcam which i'm thinking of going to a lunati voodoo cam i'll still have a good stall for the cam i will choose..
look at what cams you would pick to run in the future and pick your stall accordingly..
i do know if you go over 2500rpm stall you start paying alot more money for stalls.. i bought a Champ 2500rpm converter, from Champ Converters in Evansville Indiana, it cost $150 plus your old converter for a core. i think it would be hard to beat that stall for the price.. i would definetly use a champ converter before a b&m,tci,hughes..
even if i dont use the hotcam which i'm thinking of going to a lunati voodoo cam i'll still have a good stall for the cam i will choose..
look at what cams you would pick to run in the future and pick your stall accordingly..
i do know if you go over 2500rpm stall you start paying alot more money for stalls.. i bought a Champ 2500rpm converter, from Champ Converters in Evansville Indiana, it cost $150 plus your old converter for a core. i think it would be hard to beat that stall for the price.. i would definetly use a champ converter before a b&m,tci,hughes..
07-22-2010, 03:21 PM
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Don't skimp on the converter. .
Give one of the sponsors here a call and tell them your setup and your goals for the car and they will hook you up.
http://www.circledspecialties.com/
http://www.converter.cc/
Give one of the sponsors here a call and tell them your setup and your goals for the car and they will hook you up.
http://www.circledspecialties.com/
http://www.converter.cc/
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07-22-2010, 11:56 PM
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I completely disagree, its a huge trade off for mediocre gains on the stock motor.
For my old LT1 car I saw the LS1 guys throw huge converters at their cars and wanted to get out of the hole hard like they did and got a Vig 3200, which flashed more like 4000.
It went from a 13.5 car, to a 12.9 car on ET Streets, it also went from an average of 24 mpg to 15 mpg, and it sucked to drive on the street.
A friend of mine who also had a stock motor LT1 in his car had some no name 2400 converter. It felt way better on the street, he ran 13.1 on street radials, and it wasn't nearly as thirsty.
So I did the sensible thing and threw a big cam at it, and the CC306 was the only over the shelf cam I had to pick from way back then. It ran 12.3 with untouched heads and luckily for me the converter was the right size for the job.
Later I got more cash and threw some LE2 heads at it, and I didn't have enough converter any more, the car had a dead spot from 4-5k. I sent it back to Vig and when it came back it flashed around 5000. 11.4's all motor in good weather.
Little did I know, but buying a converter, then doing a cam, then adding heads after all that was completely the wrong order to to things. Because of that I had to spend more money on the converter to get it where it needed to be.
The correct way to build a motor is to decide what rpm the motor is going to spin and pick heads and cam to meet your goal, and then choose the correct converter that matches the combo.
That all hinges on if Logan's car is going to see more track or street use. Mine was a daily driver, most of the time it was on street radials and I couldn't take full advantage of having a huge converter in the car.
For my old LT1 car I saw the LS1 guys throw huge converters at their cars and wanted to get out of the hole hard like they did and got a Vig 3200, which flashed more like 4000.
It went from a 13.5 car, to a 12.9 car on ET Streets, it also went from an average of 24 mpg to 15 mpg, and it sucked to drive on the street.
A friend of mine who also had a stock motor LT1 in his car had some no name 2400 converter. It felt way better on the street, he ran 13.1 on street radials, and it wasn't nearly as thirsty.
So I did the sensible thing and threw a big cam at it, and the CC306 was the only over the shelf cam I had to pick from way back then. It ran 12.3 with untouched heads and luckily for me the converter was the right size for the job.
Later I got more cash and threw some LE2 heads at it, and I didn't have enough converter any more, the car had a dead spot from 4-5k. I sent it back to Vig and when it came back it flashed around 5000. 11.4's all motor in good weather.
Little did I know, but buying a converter, then doing a cam, then adding heads after all that was completely the wrong order to to things. Because of that I had to spend more money on the converter to get it where it needed to be.
The correct way to build a motor is to decide what rpm the motor is going to spin and pick heads and cam to meet your goal, and then choose the correct converter that matches the combo.
That all hinges on if Logan's car is going to see more track or street use. Mine was a daily driver, most of the time it was on street radials and I couldn't take full advantage of having a huge converter in the car.
07-23-2010, 01:44 AM
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Lots of guys drive big stalled auto's daily and don't have a problem with it and benifit greatly at the track.
If you're worried about gas mileage you're in the wrong hobby.
07-23-2010, 04:30 AM
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I'm just presenting all the facts so he can make a informed decision on what to do with his car. From my experience, it was a mistake to do a big converter in a LT1 car without a cam to match.
Last edited by 4K+Converter; 07-23-2010 at 04:36 AM.
07-23-2010, 08:15 AM
#18
agreed id say either the SS 3600 or a 3200-3600 vigilante. as for drivibality it will be fine I'd just throw an external cooler at it for some insurance. hell i've been driving a 4000 on the street with no problem at all, as a matter of fact as of next week ill be driving a 5000 on the street 
07-23-2010, 09:08 AM
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honestly, if you REALLY want to know i would dyno the car, find the peak torque and pick a converter that is at or a little lower then that, with a stock LT1 this should be around a 3600.
i have a 396 and peak torque is still around 4800 with a fairly small cam (236/244) anything over the stock cam i would use a 4000 stall.
i have a 396 and peak torque is still around 4800 with a fairly small cam (236/244) anything over the stock cam i would use a 4000 stall.
07-23-2010, 11:49 AM
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i installed a ss3600 in my buddies ls1 with 3.73 gears it was the best driving high stall converter i ever drove. Drivablity was great with the 3.73 gears hardly noticed it till you stomped on it. It cut 1.69 60's with nitto drag radials. FTI and circle d also have really good results and good customer service. I plan to go with circle d 3c in the fall.