tripleb45

Although I had a thread about modifying the body, that will come later on down the line. Tomorrow my motor will be out and I am trying to figure out what I need. I was told that the heads may be cracked so I know I will be needing new ones, but what else. I am new to car performance, but I am not new to general vehicle knowledge. I start at Autozone in about a week (20% discount WHOO HOOO lol) so I am trying to get a list together for all the parts I will need. I will be researching parts on the net, but I figured why not ask the experts here first.

To clarify I am asking for a list of things that would help my engine performance. I don't mind repeats of brands and parts, that shows me the reliability and popularity of a product. I also don't mind explanations of why you all chose those parts actually I encourage them. Please don't make this a fist fight thread. Just throw your ideas out there. Preferably someone who has done it or is doing it. And

Please do your best to break it down to me, because although working at Autozone will up my knowledge, I would like to learn on here too.

One more I am thinking about cut outs, and a 150 shot, what do you all think?

Thanks for all the input I really appreciate all the help

brucer

you doin a complete rebuild or just a topend rebuild?

tripleb45

dont know, which one would be best? What is the difference between the two options?

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Top end will include your intake manifold, cylinder heads, and cam/head internals.

The bottom end would include everything in the block including crank, pistons, connecting rods, bearings, and all that good stuff.



There are SO MANY options for a motor build. Do you have a goal in mind? Do you just get it running well or do you want a 10 second street friendly racecar? You'll have to be more specific. The information and testimonials is all right here, you'll just have to know what you want before you ask for it and find the answers you're looking for

tripleb45

Yes I do have a goal, I would like to be a beast on the track and yet still able to be a daily driver. I want to be able to give some of these LS1's around here a run for their money, or even beat a few lol.

old93camaro

iTrader: (8)

next question? is your money on a budget or is it free flowing

tripleb45

budget for now when I get my school refund check in about a month it will be some what flowing

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

If the engine will be out, I might suggest a bottom end refresh. The rods on the 94s are good rods, nothing wrong with the stock crank and pistons. Crank and cam bearings should be replaced as long as they're accessible. ARP rod bolts will tie it together nicely and add a little insurance above 6000 RPM.

A reputable machine shop should do this for you...

If you want to do heads/cam upgrade you'll likely need to be able to feed the extra airflow with more fuel. That means upgraded fuel pump and wiring to accomodate it (search Racetronix kit), possibly larger injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Possibly a 52 or 58mm throttle body.

You can have a porting done on your stock heads- most 94s had 8374 castings and do quite well. New springs, maybe valves, rocker studs, pushrods to fit any geometry changes, 1.6 ratio roller rockers, valve covers or mod the existing ones to provide adequate clearance for the rockers, guide plates for the pushrod to rocker interface... You can look into Advanced Induction www.advancedinduction.com or Lloyd Elliot www.elliottsportworks.com. You'll still need to buy pushrods and rockers either way.


Headers and cold air intake to get air flowing better in/out, larger stall converter if auto, better clutch if manual, dyno tune to make it all work, beefier rear end (stock 10 bolt is relatively weak for even a stock HP car)...

Endless possibilities. Potentially very expensive.

tripleb45

GOOD ADVICE man

happysem

iTrader: (5)

Goals need to be a little more specific.

EVERYONE wants a beast of a track car that can be daily driven, and everyone is on a budget.

The more info you give, the more options we can give you.
Are we talking about $1000 or $2500 or what?
If under $1000 I wouldn't even think about heads/cam.
Do the bolt-ons first like Gojira94 said (intake/exhaust (longtubes if you can), stall (auto), clutch (manual), gears (manual: 4.10's auto: 3.73's), tune, then rear if you can afford it. Also if you have an auto a trans cooler is nice for added security.
After that if budget permits look into used nitrous kits, you could be close to your 150 shot goal with about $500 I would guess.
Make sure you do ALL the safety stuff, window switch, WOT, upgraded fuel pump, etc. to make sure you can handle it.

Nitrous would be good for a daily because you can roll around with 300hp on the street, go to the track and with the flip of a switch be in the 450 range. Heads/cam will affect your streetability, some are better than others.

tripleb45

I am writing and researching this as we type, but what does "stall" mean? And what do you mean about the window switch?

brucer

tripleb45,

dont even worry about nitrous yet, learn about the basic lt1 engine first and foremost.. dont get ahead of yourself...

get that book on how to rebuild lt1's, read it...
search the forum for info on rebuilds and such.. take your time, dont get in a hurry, thats when you mess things up

my build is a basic rebuild, nothing real fancy, and budget minded.. its not going to beat everything out there, but it should run strong and be very streetable.
i have around $2000 in a budget rebuild with speedpro forged pistons and a lt4 hotcam kit that i got used it had like 1500 miles on it, i bought it minus the rocker arms for like $175.. its not the greatest cam, but its a solid performing cam, main thing,it was cheap.. i get some machine work done free, so i pay about 50% of what others would generally pay.. i used my stock 94 rods and rebuilt them using arp rodbolts, a friend installed the rodbolts, resized the big end, and installed pistons on the rods for free, probably about $150 price tag at a machine shop if not more..
my heads didnt need a complete overhaul, my guides checked out ok, i lapped the valves to insure a good seal, and i installed the lt4, spring cups, springs, locks and retainers myself... I havent assembled my engine yet but i have everything, just waiting so i have a couple of good days for assembly. when i assemble an engine i take my time, check things 2 or 3 times, interruptions can cost mistakes...
to note, i also prep the block myself, i install my own cam bearings and freeze plugs..

a stall converter lets your engine rev to a somewhat specific rpm before it engages.. for instance, i installed a 2500rpm stall in my car, to compliment the lt4 hotcams power curve, my car revs to 2500rpm before it takes off..

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Finally someone with good advice, Most will tell you to get rods, forged cranks ect when stock (for non-extreme) power are just fine, as said with ARP fasteners. I ran boost with a nodular crank that pushed 648 RWHP/612 Tq. As advised skip the nitrous for now, Look for good used parts, I knew of a kid on a budget that built his entire motor on used parts for a fraction of the cost, Performance parts loose a lot of value when used, I.E. My cam cost me $350 and I only got $75.00 for it, Headders cost $850 and sold for $250. Get the idea..

tripleb45

Got ya I will def look into used

tripleb45

thanks ok this is what I got so far that was mentioned to do an engine rebuid/ Mod. Please let me know
Which things are not that necessary and which things are a must. Thanks guys. This is really helping me out.


Intake-K&N intake
Headers-Pacesetter longtubes
Exhaust-Borla
Lifters-Ls1 lifters
Gears- 3.73's
Tires- Nitto
Cam- LT4 hot cam
Porting- throttle body, intake, heads, and exhaust

The things in bold are things that I have no idea on the brand to choose nor the options.
I left them blank so those who know can fill in the blanks.

upgraded fuel pump-
Gasket and seal upgrade-
Roller Rockers-
hardened push rods-
Stall Converter-
bearings-
cylinders-
rings-
oil pump-
timing chain-
flywheel-
transition mounting-
intake manifold-
Shocks-
Springs-
Adjustable Torque arms-
Panhard bars-
lower control arms-
Heads-

happysem

iTrader: (5)

Stall converter/torque converter, I haven't looked into them much but I've heard good things about the Yank ones (3200-3600 is what I've seen for most daily cars).

Also with the LT1, there isn't a big aftermarket for throttlebodys, intake manifolds, or heads. Your best option is to port the stock ones, but it really isn't needed unless you are planning to cam it, with the LT4 hotcam, I don't think its worth the trouble/money.

If you could find a set of LT4 heads and intake manifold that would give you something over stock without breaking the bank.

I have a LT4 intake manifold (LT1 manifold will not work with LT4 heads) that I need to clean up and repaint if you are interested.
Also know a guy that has LT4 heads that I'm trying to get.

So far your list looks pretty solid.

tripleb45

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