Preferred Intake Gasket for Stock LT1
#1
Preferred Intake Gasket for Stock LT1
I'm putting the intake back on my stock head/block/intake LT1. I've always preferred Fel-Pro gaskets, and they're always mentioned in the msg threads regarding intake R&R. My question is, which one is preferred in a pure stock configuration? Any experience you could share with either gasket would be great... Thanks.
Fel-Pro 1284 - Blue colored with Printo-Seal around intake ports.
Uncompressed it seems to measure .070"-.071", but states .060". So, does it compress .010" when installed?
Does not match ports as well as the gasket in the MS95580 kit (below).
The port openings are wider than the factory ports. Height seems to be fine.
Fel-Pro MS95580 - Mainfold set; Includes a dark grey metallic steel-shim type gasket.
This gasket seems to be a good match for the stock ports.
The non-compressed thickness measured within a few thousandths of the compressed factory gasket.
I'm not sure if this is the same gasket as in the Fel-Pro HS9966PT Head-Set kit.
It looks like either gasket would work, but the MS95580 gasket would have more material between the ports for better sealing, but it lacks the synthetic rubber bead around them.
Fel-Pro 1284 - Blue colored with Printo-Seal around intake ports.
Uncompressed it seems to measure .070"-.071", but states .060". So, does it compress .010" when installed?
Does not match ports as well as the gasket in the MS95580 kit (below).
The port openings are wider than the factory ports. Height seems to be fine.
Fel-Pro MS95580 - Mainfold set; Includes a dark grey metallic steel-shim type gasket.
This gasket seems to be a good match for the stock ports.
The non-compressed thickness measured within a few thousandths of the compressed factory gasket.
I'm not sure if this is the same gasket as in the Fel-Pro HS9966PT Head-Set kit.
It looks like either gasket would work, but the MS95580 gasket would have more material between the ports for better sealing, but it lacks the synthetic rubber bead around them.
#6
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I have used probably most of the available ones over the years. ONLY time I have seen a gasket issue was when the printoseal gaskets were coated in silicon sealer before install. The additional silicon seemed to have caused the silicon beads to delaminate and suck into the ports and suck oil from the lifter valley. Seen this on other applications too. I believe the full additional silicon coating did it not that there was a gasket defect.
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#9
Thanks for the replies... I took another look at the Fel-Pro gaskets I already have, and the port opening was much closer than I originally thought. The biggest difference I could find is that Fel-Pro performance (w/blue Printo-Seal around the ports) has the same radius in the corners, and the Fel-Pro "grey" have a larger radius opening in top-outer corners like the factory. I need to check these on the heads next.
Stock GM at the top:
Stock GM at the top:
#11
I used the bottom set with the print-o-seal, Fel-Pro #1284.
Since my heads & intake are stock, I was more concerned with sealing than port-matching. In this case, all the gaskets are larger than the ports as you can see from the picture. I liked the additional sealant around these ports. I've probably driven the car about 1000 miles since the change. Just last weekend, I went back and checked the torque on all the bolts to make sure they were at 35. A few of them needed to be snugged up just a bit - I would guess they were only a couple ft. lbs. off. I looked inside the intake and found no signs of any leakage, or the gasket being squished between the ports.
I also recommend making some "alignment pins" out of threaded rod too... It helped to keep intake nicely aligned & prevented the silicone from being disturbed too much. You can put them on both sides if you keep them short enough.
Hope that helps.
Since my heads & intake are stock, I was more concerned with sealing than port-matching. In this case, all the gaskets are larger than the ports as you can see from the picture. I liked the additional sealant around these ports. I've probably driven the car about 1000 miles since the change. Just last weekend, I went back and checked the torque on all the bolts to make sure they were at 35. A few of them needed to be snugged up just a bit - I would guess they were only a couple ft. lbs. off. I looked inside the intake and found no signs of any leakage, or the gasket being squished between the ports.
I also recommend making some "alignment pins" out of threaded rod too... It helped to keep intake nicely aligned & prevented the silicone from being disturbed too much. You can put them on both sides if you keep them short enough.
Hope that helps.
#12
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I wouldn't say that cause some people just buy 9sec cars. But there are def a couple members that hang around this section whos words you should take as gospel. I'd list off a fgew but dont want to get anyone but hurt, stick around long enough and you should be able to figure it out(and some of them have really small posts counts
#13
I ended up grabbing the FP 1284's and now just gotta do the work. Also need to do the timing seal cover.
Do you think it's worth dropping the engine, or would it be easy enough to just do it in the car?
Do you think it's worth dropping the engine, or would it be easy enough to just do it in the car?