LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

10 Year Old Crate Motor. What Inspections Are Needed?

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Old 08-11-2010, 02:39 PM
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Default 10 Year Old Crate Motor. What Inspections Are Needed?

It's time to swap motors in my 94 Bird. I have a brand new crate motor that has been on the shelf for the last 10 to 15 years. I bought it a year ago off craigslist. The guy I bought it from originally bought it to put it in a street rod and it sat in storage for 10+ years. It's a complete longblock with intake, fuel injectors, ect. All I need to do is plug in the wiring harness, install the accessory brackets, fuel lines, and the exhaust manifolds. This motor has NEVER been fired. No carbon on the shiny new pistons. No water has ever been in the cooling system. I've eyeballed the cylinders through the spark plug holes and they look good.

I am going to pull the intake and prime the oil system, making sure that I get oil up through the push rods. I'm going to boroscope the cylinders, double checking for rust.

Is their any need to pull the oil pan?

What else should I be looking for?

Thanks

*****
Old 08-11-2010, 02:51 PM
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I would replace ALL gaskets since they may leak especially the timing cover seal,performance oil pump and new valve springs since they have been in one position for some time unless someone unbolted the rockers.....

For good measure i would instal new springs add 1.6rr 7/16 studs,guide plates and a nice cam........did i go too far?
Old 08-11-2010, 03:49 PM
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spend a little bit now and save your self the trouble later. I would replace all the seals. gaskets too. It may cost a little bit now but those things are dry and will most likley start to leak very quickley.
Old 08-11-2010, 04:05 PM
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If the bore scope looks good, pull the pan, if it looks good, prime it and run it.
Old 08-11-2010, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by lt1-xjs
If the bore scope looks good, pull the pan, if it looks good, prime it and run it.
Are you suggesting the use of springs that have possibly been in a compressed position for 10 years?
The factory springs are not performance orientated and will definately show signs of fatique,possibly enabling complications from an other wise good motor.
Old 08-11-2010, 04:58 PM
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If it was sealed properly there shouldn't be any rust in there.
Old 08-11-2010, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 96lt1m6
Are you suggesting the use of springs that have possibly been in a compressed position for 10 years?
The factory springs are not performance orientated and will definately show signs of fatique,possibly enabling complications from an other wise good motor.
Yes I am. I am also aware of alot of 60's & 70's muscle cars with stock engines still ripping the roads up today. Some of them may have 75k+ miles or more, his has O miles.
Old 08-12-2010, 07:01 AM
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LOL - Didn't Stacey David do an epsiode on GEARZ about this last year. +1 for replacing all of the gaskets - cheap insurance. As to the Valve Train those springs are fine, but now is a great opportunity to upgrade them and the rockers as you have the motor out of the car and easy to work on. Good luck and wish I could help as it's always awesome to fire up a motor that's been sitting that long.
Old 08-12-2010, 04:26 PM
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Thanks for the input. I didn't think about the gaskets and seals, which I am now going to replace. I not going to bother with the rockers and springs. This motor is needed to help meet required emmisions regulations.

Will I even enjoy driving my car with 155 less HP than it has now?
Old 08-12-2010, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 1997 Z71
Thanks for the input. I didn't think about the gaskets and seals, which I am now going to replace. I not going to bother with the rockers and springs. This motor is needed to help meet required emmisions regulations.

Will I even enjoy driving my car with 155 less HP than it has now?
Sure you will thats only a push of a button away! LOL
Old 08-14-2010, 11:41 AM
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Just remembered that the opti is brand new OEM. I need to check the rotor screws for locktite.

What else did I miss?
Old 08-14-2010, 11:45 AM
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I bought the same thing only in a shortblock, but i would at least put a cam in it, why would you go stock?
Old 08-14-2010, 11:54 AM
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I only plan on having the motor in for a couple weeks every two years.
Old 08-14-2010, 04:46 PM
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Good idea.

Put the motor in just to pass inspection, rip it out and put the fun one back in. WIN.
Old 08-14-2010, 05:09 PM
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I was in a similar situation a year or two ago. I had a crate engine that had been sitting since 1996.

It had plugs and manifolds on it, so a boroscope showed flawless cylinders.

I was paranoid about oil drying out on the bearings having sat so long, so I pulled the pan, and pulled a rod cap to reveal bearings coated with oil that looked like the engine had been built yesterday.

The gaskets were all fine having not been outside. We installed it, cranked it a few times with no spark or fuel fuses to get oil circulating, and it rumbled to life on the first crank afterwards. It's been two years and the valvesprings are fine as well as the seals dry as dust.

Disclaimer: This was a truck engine, if it were a performance application that was to spend time at RPM I would do the springs.



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