94T/A5.7LT1

iTrader: (1)

I have a leak that looks to be coming from the top on the passenger side of the block. I was looking with a flash light and there was fresh oil coming from there. I stopped driving the car because somehow it was getting onto my cat and smoking like crazy, oil everywhere under the car, transmissioin, starter. Now I think that it could be coming from the manifold since a couple of years ago it had to be taking off to get a broken bolt out of my drivers side head. I dont think its the valve cover because I wiped around it with my hand and it was pretty clean. Now my question is whats involved with removing the intake manifold? Also is there anything else in the back of the motor that could cause a big leak to get everywhere? Thanks

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like you do indeed have the classic intake leak. To fix it, you'll need a pair of intake gaskets, throttle body to intake gasket (have you done the TB bypass yet? Now's a good time before you tackle the intake.)

Alternator, if in its stock location, needs to have its bracket on the intake removed. There is also a bracket to hold the brake booster hose that will need to come off. Unbolt the throttle cable bracket's 3 bolts and set it aside. Next, go ahead and relieve the fuel pressure and disconnect the fuel lines with a quick disconnect tool (like 7-8 bucks at Advance/ Autozone). To relieve the pressure, if it's cold and the residual pressure has gone, press the schrader valve next to the regulator and catch the slight spillage with a rag. Expect a little more spillage from the fuel line couplers. Move the fuel lines up and to the left for a gravity assist against more fuel spillage. A spring clamp helps hold it that way if you don't have a helper. Disconnect the fuel injectors' connectors and clear the harness connectors for the EGR solenoid, evap solenoid, etc. You can leave the throttle body on or take it off. Your choice. Disconnect the CCV tube to it and pull the vacuum lines off the driver's side of the intake.

When you pull it off, clean carefully with a gasket scraper. Be careful not to get (or leave as the case will probably be) debris into the lifter valley. Finish the cleaning with a light touch with 400 grit. RTV the perimeter of the intake rim on the block and put it back together. See here http://shbox.com/ci/fastener_matrix.html for torque specs.

BlackBird87

iTrader: (6)

Good time to check the oil pressure sender

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

It sounds like it may be the manifold. If it is and you replace the gaskets make sure to spread a thick bead of RTV and allow it to sit and cure for 24 hours before starting the motor again. An old school hot rodder trick some people do is taking a punch and hammer and making some small dents in the block surface out back which gives the RTV more gripping power. Also make sure to clean the gasket surfaces off really well with a gasket scraper then sand paper and to torque the manifold in the correct sequence and in two steps to ensure a perfect seal.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

^^ x2... Please note, the torque spec is in 2 steps, with INCH INCH INCH pounds first, then FOOT pounds.

71 lb. in. first pass
35 lb. ft. 2nd pass