nik1703

How do you get this master cylinder out??? ive been struggling for an hour with this thing, the brake booster in the way, and there's no way to get this u-shaped rod off.


HELP!

BlackBird87

iTrader: (6)

the brake booster has to come off, i got to the u bold with a deep socket and universal

nik1703

so unbolt those 4 bolts to the brake booster inside the cabin and pull it back?

it looks like the booster doesnt move unless you unbolt the steel brake lines.

what a stupid f****** design

nik1703

need help,

do i have to remove the brake lines from the booster and bleed the brakes? or just loosen the booster?

there is seriously no way to get to the bolts for the booster without removing the steering shaft.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

i didn't take the booster or any of the brake components out? the u bolt is held in by little "clips" on the inside IIRC, just tap the u bolt out with a hammer and long socket extensions.

airfix

iTrader: (30)

Close, the u bolt has 2 nuts that you have to remove from inside the car. Follow your clutch pedal to the firewall and you will see them. The master cylinder "rod" is held on with a clip that you need to remove, I was able to remove the clip with my fingers. Then you should be able to giggle it out it can be kinda of a bitch, because the metal backing plate kinda catches on the threads of the u bolt.

airfix

iTrader: (30)

And there should be no need to remove the booster Like Wicked94Z stated above.

nik1703

you guys were correct, no need to remove booster.

finally got the master cylinder in after a few hours. no pressure now though on the clutch pedal after filling it with brake fluid and pumping the clutch, im assuming ill need to pick up a power bleeder tomorrow and bleed it

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

yea i know the clip on the rod. but i think there were some metal clip type things that basically just hold the u bolt in place after the nuts are removed. maybe not. all i remember was swapping to auto pedals was a huge PITA

fupa

iTrader: (4)

I know everyone is gonna say that you should have bench bleed it first. Ive never had to do it so im not sure, but are you replacing the whole master/slave assembley? I bought a new one from GM and it was already pre-bled just drop it in and go.

airfix

iTrader: (30)

I literly just did this yesterday, theres no need to buy a power bleeder. Un bolt your slave, fill up your resovior crawl under the car and push in the slave by hand. You'll hear the air comming out of the resovior. Make sure you push it in and out slowly so it doesnt suck back air if the level is a little low. While doing this make sure you watch the fluid level in the resovoir keeping it topped up. Do this 10-15 times and there should be no more air bubbles comming out of the resovior(you should also be able to hear when there is no more air comming out of the system) after you hear no more air its a good idea to pump it a few more times just to make sure. If you can have a friend watch the level and keep the fluid topped up while your underneathe pumping the slave it makes things much easier. Then bolt the slave back in make sure you fluid level is good put the cap on and test out your pedal feel.

airfix

iTrader: (30)

You may be right I don't recall any clips, but I wasn't paying too much attention I just got the stock pos out as fast as I could. And ya your right working up in the pedal area is the worst. I thought I was gonna put my back out being all twisted upside down in there having a solid mounted kirky and a 6pt bar didn't help any.

nik1703

will do, thanks!