Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

So, the block is going out for a cleaning, honing, and new freeze plugs. The block is just too fubar'd to use after sitting unturned for a decade. The plan was to re ring it along with new rod and main bearings. But then the wheels in my head start turning. I have LE2 heads, 58mm TB, LT headers, EWpump, etc...Why not do it right?

Should I just put the stock parts back, get a nice forged 355 assembly, or just get the block clearanced for a 383?

The heads have 53cc chambers, the gasket is 0.026, with a 383 the static CR becomes close to 12.7:1. Might be too much for a daily driver.

Plus the heads have Comp 918's with the blue stripe. I was told by AI that they're pretty much a weak spring. Not good for high lift cams.

Are there any good rotating assemblies that include all forged parts and wont break the bank? Stock, 355, 383?

Opinions? Experience? I'm all ears. Apparently I have time....

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

run stock gaskets instead of the .026's. that would bring the compression down half a point. I would atleast do the 355 while things are apart. The very least I would put in ARP rod bolts and main studs. For the 150-175 it will cost you it would be a solid buy.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely.

Splayed mains anyone?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Totally unnecessary and a wasted expense for your build. Stock 2-bolt mains are PLENTY strong.

355z28

iTrader: (8)

If the block didnt have any spun main bearings I dont think I would bother running main studs and having to 'line hone it. I think Id just run ARP main bolts and rods bolts IMO thats more then enough and keep the 2 bolt main block.

I ran my old setup on stock main and rod bolts and shifted at 6400-6500 for 2 years without a failure.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

well hes running LE2 heads so i am assuming Le2 cam. Which will want 6800-6900rpms. Studding the mains wouldnt be a bad idea.

merim123

iTrader: (11)

why not go 383 and why does it have to be forged if you're not going to through any kind of FI on it?

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

Go for it all forged 383 with splayed mains, that way If you decide to spray later you won't have to worry about your bottom end, it'll be plenty stout.
Compstar 4340 forged crank and rods with the forged piston of your choice.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Forget about Cubic Inches at this point and think about your budget!
Factory crank is strong,saves money there..try to only have it polished
Replace rods 5.7 or 6.0 inch rods
Proper piston for said rod selection and compression ratio desired
I would stud any block,just me!
OR
Cut to 4-bolt,splayed is optional depending on POWER GOALS
There are many fast cam heads cars out there look at what AI and Le are producing! Ball is in your court.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

1. Budget. Don't really have one but I wouldn't really be dissapointed if I just rebuilt the block same as stock.
2. Factory crank. From what I've heard, horsepower ranges between 500-600hp are tolerated. Pretty broad range.
3. Rods. I haven't pulled the oil pan yet but I hope I find forged rods in there. Will replace stock bolts with ARP.

Now, link me up to some replacement bearings. Preferably American made. Thanx

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Federal Mogul HD brgs are very nice

You can do ARPs and resize your rods however, aftermarket rods are 299.00 from scat they weigh less. infact since price is not an issue and you wanna do it nice

OLIVER 6"billet rods 1200+
CALLIES 3.75 forged steel crank 1200+/-
SPLAYED billet main caps 225
JE forged pistons 800
Machine work add 850-925
nice 383 combo

There are so many options and prices you can get a headache doing research

brucer

dont run a cast crank, over the past few years the aftermarket cast cranks have evidently went to $hit...

stock crankshaft is nodular iron, which is a solid step up from a cast crankshaft, and a step down from forged steel crankshaft... a good balanced stock crankshaft is a pretty good piece...

if your stock crankshaft is good, a would look into
(a) reconditioning the stock rods using arp rodbolts...
(B) a set of aftermarket rods with 7/16 capscrews...

use a good forged flat top piston, and pay to have the assembly balanced by someone that knows what they are doing... put the $500-$700 your saving in the crank and rods towards other mods down the road... ie: cam, heads,gears,stall,clutch, whatever you choose.

if your wanting as much power as you can get and your pocket or credit card is deep, order a forged 383 kit and dont look back...

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

build the 355 people make good power with them, very cost effective

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

What? You're on crack, ESPECIALLY if he decides on a 383... lol

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

If you lean towards forged go 383, if not then stay with a 355 with forged pistons. The rods and crank will hold up fine as long as you stay NA

merim123

iTrader: (11)

is budget an issue or not? is there a budget goal here. We just went from 1500-8000 on the recommendations above

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

It's not a budget issue, it's a common sense issue. It's going to be a daily driver. So I have to use my head instead of my wallet.

So, should I just call Jason Cromer and order the stock LT1 piston rings and main and rod bearings? Or does anyone have somewhere else in mind? Thanx

brucer

well you could do a 383, its going to be a little worse on fuel maybe, probably would depend alot on the cam you choose..

i think what i would do is a 355, stock rods with arp bolts, speedpro flat top pistons, stock crank turned .010/.010, balance the rotating assembly, you'll use the .026 head gaskets you already have, and the heads and cam you already have..

i would go to an electric waterpump ($150), and a dbl roller timing chain..

you can get a complete rebuild kit with the speedpro forged pistons and rings and all the bearings and gaskets you need from summitracing for like $650, plus you'll need to add the cloyes true dbl roller timing chain ($90), and a melling select oilpump ($85).. the kit will have an oilpump in it but it is a hi volume hi pressure oilpump and they dont work well in a lt1 with its pump drive assembly....

you could swap in a forged steel crank, they cost around $500-$1000 depending on brand... and you could also do some good h-beam or i-beam rods with 7/16 bolts for like $250-$450 depending on brand..

you didnt say if you had a cam... i would look into the lunati voodoo cams if i were building an engine, they have a dual pattern and looks like they would make good power for normal driving..

merim123

iTrader: (11)

^^^ what he says then. I was in the same boat you are, that's why I ask about budget. I was all over the place, forged not forged, etc and in the end I spent 1400-1500 for the 355 shortblock I have, no regrets.

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

OP because its a DD you should be thinking about a mild build. You can make both mild, but because you already have your stock parts your bottom end cost should be your real decision. A forged piston would be a good idea, but not necessary on a DD. You can run stock replacements for the overbore, recondition your rods, turn your crank and get all the ARP bolts for 5-700 bucks. Make it around a grand with forged pistons. If you go 383, you will eclipse that cost in parts alone. I was in your boat with my build, the shortblock i bought needed new internals. But spending that much on the bottom end wasnt in the budget, so i stuck with stock.