Shoot me in the face, header bolts too close to fit wrench on
10-09-2010, 06:24 PM
#1
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Shoot me in the face, header bolts too close to fit wrench on So I'm putting in my eGAY headers and the bolt holes are too close to the pipes to fit a socket OR a regular wrench on. I cant use the open ended side because its a 12pt bolt, unless there is a magical tool that will make my life worth living. Any ideas? Any ideas other than ditching these headers and buying some REAL ones? I dont even think I could sell these, they would just be a big pile of scrap stainless steel. Someone please end this four day agony.
10-09-2010, 06:29 PM
#2
What are those rusted bolt wrenches called? Gatorgrip or something. Bob vila sold them. Google says gatorgrip is NOT what I'm thinking of, but it's along those lines. Same thing only in channel lock form. May help.
I had to dent in my primaries on my LPPs to install them. I think it's normal to have to do a little of that with the size they make the primaries on these cars with the bolts so close.
Of course I'll be told I'm completely wrong in everything I say on this website.
I had to dent in my primaries on my LPPs to install them. I think it's normal to have to do a little of that with the size they make the primaries on these cars with the bolts so close.
Of course I'll be told I'm completely wrong in everything I say on this website.
10-09-2010, 06:53 PM
#4
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Best bet is grinding down the 12pt end of a wrench sort of thin all around (enough to go around the bolt head). That's what I had to do for some of the bolts on my Hookers. Works fine.
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10-09-2010, 07:39 PM
#8
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The bolts I used were twelve point, and had a 3/8" head. I got a 3/8" 12 point wrench and ground the box end down until it would fit on the bolts. In other words, I did what 1badzee suggested.
10-09-2010, 08:25 PM
#9
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Snap-on do a spline double end box wrench with the thinnest walls on the ring ever created for any wrench. Its made for specially for aviation applications, comes in combinations of 1/4 x 5/16 and also 3/8 x 7/16, and upto a 5/8 combination but you would never need it on a car. 6 point nuts will do the job.
I used the ARP 12 pt kit with studs and nuts, but being an aircraft technician I already have these wrenches in my toolbox so I avoid having to buy expensive tools for one job because I use them on a daily basis. I think your better off going to your hardware store and getting some high quality 6 point nuts to the same thread specifications. If your determined to use the 12 point nuts, then go ahead and buy this wrench.
I must warn you, its not cheap. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
It would probably cost you 2-3$ for some high quality 6 point replacements and avoid spending 43$ on a wrench that you will only NEED once.
Your call bro
I used the ARP 12 pt kit with studs and nuts, but being an aircraft technician I already have these wrenches in my toolbox so I avoid having to buy expensive tools for one job because I use them on a daily basis. I think your better off going to your hardware store and getting some high quality 6 point nuts to the same thread specifications. If your determined to use the 12 point nuts, then go ahead and buy this wrench.
I must warn you, its not cheap. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
It would probably cost you 2-3$ for some high quality 6 point replacements and avoid spending 43$ on a wrench that you will only NEED once.
Your call bro
10-09-2010, 08:38 PM
#11
I had the same problem on my one primary of my pacesetters. Just happened to have two 8mm wrenchs and one was a bit smaller. Nothing a grinder cant fix to solve that issue and your done. You'll have to go over them again once you let it run and re tighten them a couple times till they dont back off.
10-10-2010, 08:58 AM
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Only need this one simple answer...grind down the wrench end (i had to do it) with some type of grinder preferably a bench grinder. Once the bolt is on you can use a socket on it from there on.
Side notes: Remember not to over tighten especially with aluminum gaskets if you are using them. Check bolts and tighten when needed after a few heat cycles of driving car.
Side notes: Remember not to over tighten especially with aluminum gaskets if you are using them. Check bolts and tighten when needed after a few heat cycles of driving car.
10-10-2010, 09:41 AM
#18
Only need this one simple answer...grind down the wrench end (i had to do it) with some type of grinder preferably a bench grinder. Once the bolt is on you can use a socket on it from there on.
Side notes: Remember not to over tighten especially with aluminum gaskets if you are using them. Check bolts and tighten when needed after a few heat cycles of driving car.
Side notes: Remember not to over tighten especially with aluminum gaskets if you are using them. Check bolts and tighten when needed after a few heat cycles of driving car.
also u can grind down the bolt head to a whole new smaller size if it's much bigger than the thread portion as well. But you'd want to fit it into the closed end of a wrench.
Don't expect other manuf...to always be much much better...some fits are just tight and suckky(we want wives like this) even from Hookers or Pace or etc....the most important observation you should make is is it flat flush where they meet against the head......they should be flat flat flat even the flange should not be bent in anyway..run a level on it....and a right angle.
10-10-2010, 12:10 PM
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Wow, thanks for the great ideas! I cant believe I didnt think of grinding down one of my wrenches, I'm definitely going to try that. I think I'll leave the $43 wrenches alone for now, but it's good to know theyre available. I really want to try and use the 12 pt bolts I have, they're percys split lock bolts with the little allen key in the middle so I "shouldn't" have to check them after I get them in once. I saw in the chiltons manual that I should torque them to 30ft lbs, that should be the same if I'm using aftermarket headers right? I've read that I should tighten them all finger tight, then do 10lbs starting from the inside bolts and working my way out, and then go ahead and tighten them 30ft lbs in the same sequence. I really dont want these suckers to leak, I had a leak on my #8 cylinder and it annoyed the crap out of me. I do have the metal gaskets the headers came with, I ripped the Mr. Gasket set in like 2 minutes trying to fit it around the coolant temp sensor without cutting a notch in it.... Either way, great ideas I would still be sitting under my car in a pool of coolant/oil/rust banging my head. And trilkb 
, at least I know where to go to 
, at least I know where to go to