juge88

Im getting my lt1 freshend up and I'm looking for a good low to mid range cam for my b-body it pretty much stock it has 373 gears and a 2800 stall I'm keeping the heads stock(it has crane factory replacement springs)
I need to know if I'm gunna need the computer retuned also
Also need to know were to buy the cam

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

Crane 227 cam. Awesome street cam with a ton of torque at any rpm.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-104227/

juge88

Will this work with 10309 crane springs and retainer kit also is there a cheaper place to get it $420 seems steep

merim123

iTrader: (11)

i have that cam for sale, ping me an offer

juge88

Pm sent

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Oh boy. Another cam thread.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

That Crane 227 will be a good match for a stockish exhaust setup that needs extra help on exhaust duration. With CAI and shorties/freed up exhaust a Comp XE 502 or even 501 with tighter duration might be better suited. The Comp XFI grinds are going to be too much lift for a stock style replacement spring, so those are off the table. Stock springs only get lifted .447/.459 on the stock cam and start to approach bind at around .490. If you'd be willing to entertain beefier springs, you could have many more options. My .02.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-07-501-8/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-07-502-8/

juge88

And these will work with my springs? Also I doesn't say if I would need to tune my computer
I think these would be better because I do have spintecs and a cai
This I my first car and cam swap so thanks for the help

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

The 227 works great with headers and a free flowing exhaust. I trapped 115 with that cam and some mild heads with a far from optimized setup.

As far as the tune you would greatly benefit from a tune even with just boltons.

Ai also has their version of that cam as well.


Ai 208 / 226 - .525/.540 - 112 LSA Primary Operating Range: 1500-5800rpm
This is an excellent daily cam for heavy automatic cars. Mild idle, excellent drivability, and strong low end through mid-range with peak power at approximately 5800rpm. Properly tuned w/ supporting modifications, M6's typically produce 320-330rwhp SAE corrected.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Comp XFI 466 will make more power with the same type powerband. You will need good springs though.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Most any of these cams will require stronger springs- as said the stockers are only good to about .490 safe maximum lift. With springs come locks & retainers, locators, and asking stock self-aligning rockers to manage these new parts is not something they can do. Guideplates (very cheap) also come into the mix then. So... a simple cam swap leads to valvetrain upgrades. Springs aren't too bad price wise for new ones. Rockers- you might look for a gently used set of 1.52 or 1.6:1 full rollers. Good new ones go for about $200.00 & up to $400.00. BTW, stock B-body manifolds?

I could see it working well with supporting mods, as per your own experience. I think you still might have lost some power from the combustion charge into the primaries, but that's a good trap with your old non-optimal setup. Just curious where you were shifting if you recall. Regardless, OP will need to grab some springs and rockers to run even the 227. Amen to the tune, whatever cam & train solution is chosen...

JAKEJR

You can call CompCams, Lunati, AI, Golen, JEGS, SummitRacing, etc., etc., directly and order a cam. Make GOOGLE and BING your friends and you'll find lots of companies that sell cams. Comp says one of the worse things you can do is let your friends pick your cam for you.

Comp also makes it clear that most of their lobes, like the XFI and even XEs as examples, were NOT designed to work with OEM valve train parts. Stock valve train parts are marginal at best even for stock use. So if you want to run with the Big Dogs, be prepared to Man Up and buy all the recommended associated parts.

Those are cutting edge, aggressive lobes so if you plan on running them be prepared to go the whole route. It's more than just buying the cam if you want a reliable valve train. My best advice is to buy all the parts that are recommended to work with a specific cam. No corner cutting.

Too often, guys will buy the cam, but Cheap-Out when it comes to buying the right springs and end up buying cheaper springs that are advertised as being "just as good". Then they want to reuse their stock retainers and locks; don't move to Non-Self Aligning full roller rocker arms and even post asking if their stock pushrods can be used.

After varying lengths of time, the failure posts begin to surface on the many Forums. Sprinkled in are posts like "I've been using such and such for so and so long without any problem"; a testament to doing things the not-recommended, wrong way.

Just my views.

Jake