CAMARO51190

me and my friends are replacing my head gasket. we have got the heads off tonight and he stumble apon the steam bolt. the first bolt came out fine it is the other bolt that is completely striped to no extent. and to top it off the little pile of pipe that goes to each head and exit for (STEAM) is snaped. what should i do.. Should i delete the steam bolts by blocking the off or should i replace them? i am in a nut shell with this like does that dam bolt do anything? i really really need help with this can anyone help me?

Thanks
JT

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Penetrating oil and try to tighten it a hair and then loosen it.

Replace the steam pipe and banjo bolts with brass fittings- don't use aluminum (high possibility of galling). Brass elbow in the left head, braided line goes from it to brass T fitting on back of right head, more braided line goes to one more brass elbow at the turn along the intake. Line or hose up to the front. Voila.

Edit: Don't delete it- critical to coolant flow...

CAMARO51190

the only problem i have is that bolt is completely round now. i was going to weld a bolt to the banjo bolt. and take it out that way. can i delete it i have read something that you could delete it

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

Yea you have to have them because they are the highest point in the engine that water travels so you will have over heating issues.

SpeedDensityZ

iTrader: (5)

Do not delete them, you need them. If you can get it out without pulling the threads out of the head I would just try and find another one to replace it. If you can't, do a search there are a few people that have done a parts list using aftermarket fittings and braided line. I think SPEEDDENSITY is one of them.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

LT1 steam pipe behind heads (93-94) (includes bolts, seals, hose to radiator) = 10108635

51 bucks at Parts Taxi

LT1 steam pipe behind heads (95-97) (includes bolts and seals) = 12556260

88 bucks at Parts Taxi

CAMARO51190

Can I use high temp rubber fitting for the pipe would that work?

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Yes, it wont be an issue.

CAMARO51190

So I don't need to take out the banjo bolt out? And i can use high temp rubber to replace the pipe

BUMP is that a good idea just using high temp radiator hose.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

As long as the bolt has not been damaged to the point of leaking.

I ran with fittings+high temp hose with my H/C build for over two years.

It was maybe 20 bucks for the fittings, hose, and thread sealant.

Boddie

I'm very interested in doing this for my car. As of right now, I have the crossover pipe connected from head to head, but with a high temp rubber hose that travels to the intake manifold. It works just fine, but I want to try your method. Can I get those parts at home depot? What size brass fittings do I need?

Thanks.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Sort of went through this with my Frankenstein. The thread is NOT a pipe thread. So you'll have to run a pipe tap into the head before you can use a pipe fitting. I was going to do it in steel pipe with flare fittings but I was able to stop my persistent leak so I stuck with the factory setup. Ended up using 5/8" GM AC compressor seals, there is a thick and a thin. Used the thick ones between the head and the steam pipe because they were pliable, and the thin one between the banjo bolt and the steam pipe. Used water proof valve grease on the thin seal to keep the banjo bolt from tearing the rubber on the seal. So far, so good.

Al 95 Z28 going racing the 29th...