Stall w/ 4.10's?
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Stall w/ 4.10's?
Got a 96 Formula, with mods in sig...
The car is my DD.
Probably going to install a shift kit soon, wanted to know a few things about a stall.
What size is best for the 4.10's? (please don't say change the gears to 3.73's)
Is it ok to buy used?
I was thinking yank, but I found a vigilante 3600 for sale?
Let me know.
Thanks,
Kyle
The car is my DD.
Probably going to install a shift kit soon, wanted to know a few things about a stall.
What size is best for the 4.10's? (please don't say change the gears to 3.73's)
Is it ok to buy used?
I was thinking yank, but I found a vigilante 3600 for sale?
Let me know.
Thanks,
Kyle
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The converter has to match the cam and rear gear. This is where dynos become helpful. For a street/strip car the ideal converter stalls 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor, within reason. With my set up I run 4.10s and a Vig 4000. Although 4400 might have been ideal Vig did not recommend going over 4000 for street driven LT1 n/a applications. 4000 might be a bit much now, but you certainly could grow into it. BTW the times/mph in my sig was with a Vig 3600. Having it restalled to 4000 woke it up even more out of the hole in non-scientific street testing. And with a good, quality, efficient converter they don't have the clutch slip feel like you are thinking. You just have to tap the throttle in my car and it feels like its gonna jump out from under you.
--Alan
--Alan
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The converter has to match the cam and rear gear. This is where dynos become helpful. For a street/strip car the ideal converter stalls 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor, within reason. With my set up I run 4.10s and a Vig 4000. Although 4400 might have been ideal Vig did not recommend going over 4000 for street driven LT1 n/a applications. 4000 might be a bit much now, but you certainly could grow into it. BTW the times/mph in my sig was with a Vig 3600. Having it restalled to 4000 woke it up even more out of the hole in non-scientific street testing. And with a good, quality, efficient converter they don't have the clutch slip feel like you are thinking. You just have to tap the throttle in my car and it feels like its gonna jump out from under you.
--Alan
--Alan
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#8
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Yank, Vigilante (Precision Industries), and Circle D are the 3 I'd talk to. As far as buying used I wouldn't unless ur going to send it back to the company to be checked out and freshened. If you absolutely know the owner/history of the used converter then you may be ok, but I've seen way too many folks burned by used converters not being what they are advertised and/or damaged to the point of being unusable. There's such a huge gain to be had with this component that skimping here is not a smart idea.
--Alan
--Alan
#11
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I don't really know how to explain it but it's definately a huge difference. RPM's don't drop between shifts nearly as much. Here's a vid I found on Youtube- maybe that'll help even though it's only a 3600
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsW9w...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsW9w...eature=related
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I don't really know how to explain it but it's definately a huge difference. RPM's don't drop between shifts nearly as much. Here's a vid I found on Youtube- maybe that'll help even though it's only a 3600
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsW9w...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsW9w...eature=related